duster sparks from battery ground

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bryan340

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I'll start by explaing the problems. Car turns over very slowly or not at all, replaced starter and battery, no change. Took battery out of trunk and mounted correctly with oem battery terminals under hood, no change. When the battery ground is connected to the car , small sparks fly. I am thinking I have a open connection somewhere, any advice where to start looking? Also my key is stuck in the ignition could it be related ? I have a new one to replace it just waiting to fix this issue first. Thanx
 
A small spark is evidence of completing a circuit so something is on already when you're attaching the cable. Could be as simple as the dome lamp circuit if the door is open. Could be more serious like a short inside the alternator.
Place a test lamp between that cable end and battery post. If the lamp glows start hunting why.
 
Good advise RedFish.Take a look at inside the door post for a stuck interior light pin,also check at the harness block at firewall.These are problem areas with corrosion.Maybe a bad ammeter too?
 
Don't hook up the battery again until you find the draw using a multimeter (ohm setting). I carry a multimeter in every car, all free at Harbor Freight w/ coupon. Anything less than 100 ohm from BATT+ cable to chassis ground should be a concern. If you disconnect your bulkhead connectors first, that will isolate it to the engine bay (alternator diodes, starter, starter relay, horn relay, wiring). If not there, reconnect, pull all under-dash fuses and put them back one at a time to find which circuit is the culprit.
 
LET US BE CLEAR..............

WHERE are you grounding the battery?

It MUST be grounded to the engine block in order to crank

This means a trunk mount battery must have a jumper from the engine block to the car body (in the case of Mopars, which have no frame)

If there is a "small" spark every time you connect/ disconnect the battery, this means you have something drawing current. Make sure everything, key, dome lights, any other accessories "not" through the ign switch are off

To find the drain/ draw, put a test lamp in series with the battery ground. It will light more brightly depending on the amount of the draw. Disconnect fuses one at a time to find. If all fuses are out and you still show a draw, think about what else you might have hooked up---an aftermarket stereo, separate amp, anything you have added. Try disconnecting the alternator output stud.
 
Thanks for all the great advice, narrowed it down to the alternator (my buddy is an elecrician and brought over his tester) Replaced alternator this morning and she fired right up. Fingers are crossed !!! Also would like to replace my nasty looking fusible link with a modern blade style fuse, what amp size should I use, and is it ok to do this ?
 
you can buy fusible links anywhere fuses are sold. My memory sux but I think the OEM was a 14awg link.
Year One offers a reproduction of OEM if thats more to your liking.
 
you can buy fusible links anywhere fuses are sold. My memory sux but I think the OEM was a 14awg link.
Year One offers a reproduction of OEM if thats more to your liking.

X2. Don't try and use a fuse. Any fuse needs to be at least as large as the max rated alternator output, unless you've bypassed the ammeter
 
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