Dying at idle?!?

-
MvJackson

MvJackson

72duster
Joined
Mar 26, 2015
Messages
126
Reaction score
4
Location
Mesa, AZ
I recently installed a dual carb weber 38 clifford intake and headers. My car kept dying at idle so I installed a new alternator as mine was shot and a new battery and voltage regulator. Car was fine until earlier today when I changed the belt for the alternator.

On my way home from autozone it stalled out 4 times. Every time I had to stop at a light or for a turn. But would start and idle and allow me to shift back to drive and be fine.

Now at home all it does is start up and I can rev it to kept started but as soon as I try to shift it dies.

Could it be the idle mixture?, an electrical problem?,

It's a 1972 duster 225 slant six.
 
Does choking either carb help? If so vacuum leak. Also could have a fuel line too close to a heat source boiling fuel in it or causing a vapor lock type situation.
 
I haven't tried anything as of yet. I just got it back from the exhaust shop and they tuned in the carbs for me. I did notice that some leaking from one of the headers at the turndown to the exhaust pipe. Could this be it?
 
its not vapor lock because its dying at idle - if it was vapor lock or fuel boiling git would only turn on then immediately off after key on position is released...

tune the carb and set your idle screw. and check for leaks.
 
Checked and. Set idle. Now won't turn over. When it does it dies. Jumped the ballast resister wires and it ran but died just less than a minute after.
 
can you provide a video? now it is starting to sound like vapor lock.
maybe electrical.

if it wont turn over id check proper connections to starter & grounds (maybe bad starter) i changed my starter wire because it was really corroded inside the sleeve couldn't tell from just looking at it made huge difference.
 
Your issues with the charging system and now not-cranking are totally separate.

When you do get it cranking, see if it fires and runs smooth w/ shots of starter fluid down the throats. I have run an engine fine like that when the electric fuel pump was dead. If so, you have a vaccum leak or fuel supply problem. Closing the choke plate slightly is another way to verify it is idling lean.
 
How do I post a video to the forum?

I am going to change the battery cables and if it isn't that I was going to change the starter.
 
BillGrissom said:
Your issues with the charging system and now not-cranking are totally separate.

When you do get it cranking, see if it fires and runs smooth w/ shots of starter fluid down the throats. I have run an engine fine like that when the electric fuel pump was dead. If so, you have a vaccum leak or fuel supply problem. Closing the choke plate slightly is another way to verify it is idling lean.
Click to expand...


I'll try today. It turns and turns and almost fires. I haven't ever had this happen before.
 
BIG-B-Barracuda said:
can you provide a video? now it is starting to sound like vapor lock.
maybe electrical.

if it wont turn over id check proper connections to starter & grounds (maybe bad starter) i changed my starter wire because it was really corroded inside the sleeve couldn't tell from just looking at it made huge difference.
Click to expand...

Awesome I'll try this as well today.

And I'll try to post a video if I can figure it out.
 
To the OP; There are a number of possibilities suggested but no plan of troubleshooting here. If you have or can get a voltmeter, it will go a long way towards actually troubleshooting some of the issues. (Unreliable cranking when you try to start, and possibly the run issues.) Let us know, if you do have a voltmeter.
 
So I tried both the starter fluid and battery cables, ballast resister alternator and voltage regulator and battery throughout the week. It turned and then died immediately when I let the key go.
Now won't even try to turn. The starter just makes one click. And nothing.
 
MvJackson said:
Yes I do.
Click to expand...

How about starting with these voltage checks and we can try to proceed in an orderly fashion to dig these issues. Please don't skip anything as each step can uncover a problem.

To tackle the cranking issues:
- Check the ground from the battery to the engine and make sure the connections are super clean; use a file, knife, or wire brush to clean them.
- Check the ground from the back of the engine to the chassis up on the firewall to make sure it is clean and a good ground
- Make sure both battery terminal connections have been cleaned with a wire brush; clean both the battery terminals and the connections to a bright shine.
- Measure the battery voltage directly across the + and - terminals.
- Keep the - lead on the - battery terminal and move the + lead to the large lug on the starter relay; see if the same voltage is there as on the battery.
- The move the meter + lead to the large connection on the starter and see if it is the same as the battery voltage.

If the battery voltage is under 12.4 volts or so, then have it charged. A well charged battery should show a good voltage of 12.6 or 12.7.

START tests:
- Put the leads back on the battery terminal directly and have someone turn the key to START. See if the battery voltage changes and note that.
- Then move the + lead of the meter to the big lug on the starter relay and do the same thing.
- Then move the meter + lead to the large brown wire from the starter relay to the starter; See if that jumps to close to battery voltage when the key is turned to START.

Let us know how all the works out.
 
Yes, don't throw parts at it hoping to get lucky. There are casinos over in Vegas if you want to gamble.

The suggestions regarding using a meter are spot-on. Lots of people have problems solving electrical issues. You have to approach electricity as if it is a road with cars on it.

If everything is good, the cars travel along smoothly and reach their destination. But, if there's a wreck, or roadblock or something else, what happens? The traffic stops, backs up, doesn't reach the destination.

It's the same with electrical issues. You have 12 volts at the battery and you want it to reach it's destination, which is the starter. So, what do you do? You don't install a new starter and hope the electricity gets there.

You start out at the beginning(the battery) and check all the junctions along the route. You inspect your route and insure traffic is moving smoothly. If you see a roadblock, then you know something at that point is amiss.

An electrical meter is a terribly underutilized tool. Not only will it measure voltage, but it can measure resistance, so it makes it dead simple to check a wire for continuity. You can go all the way down the route until you reach a point where it's obvious "hey, I no longer have 12 volts here" or "that side of that connection is live and that side is dead".

Good luck.
 
nm9stheham said:
How about starting with these voltage checks and we can try to proceed in an orderly fashion to dig these issues. Please don't skip anything as each step can uncover a problem.

To tackle the cranking issues:
- Check the ground from the battery to the engine and make sure the connections are super clean; use a file, knife, or wire brush to clean them.
- Check the ground from the back of the engine to the chassis up on the firewall to make sure it is clean and a good ground
- Make sure both battery terminal connections have been cleaned with a wire brush; clean both the battery terminals and the connections to a bright shine.
- Measure the battery voltage directly across the + and - terminals.
- Keep the - lead on the - battery terminal and move the + lead to the large lug on the starter relay; see if the same voltage is there as on the battery.
- The move the meter + lead to the large connection on the starter and see if it is the same as the battery voltage.

If the battery voltage is under 12.4 volts or so, then have it charged. A well charged battery should show a good voltage of 12.6 or 12.7.

START tests:
- Put the leads back on the battery terminal directly and have someone turn the key to START. See if the battery voltage changes and note that.
- Then move the + lead of the meter to the big lug on the starter relay and do the same thing.
- Then move the meter + lead to the large brown wire from the starter relay to the starter; See if that jumps to close to battery voltage when the key is turned to START.

Let us know how all the works out.
Click to expand...

I'll be doing this soon as I have the chance.
Thanks.
I'll let you guys know how everything turns out.
 
So all the electrical checked out.

I am leaking a fuel I noticed. And it smells of fuel when I try and turn it over. It started fine after all the electric was checked.

It ran and idled. Then when I stopped it and let it sit it won't catch again. Just stinks of fuel.

I have some white vapor smoke coming from my exhaust pipes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top