fstfish66
Well-Known Member
leanna ok great i saved it ill read it tomorrow when i get home intresting thanks
Dynamat or Fatmat??
- Thread starter superdart
- Start date
-
leanna ok great i saved it ill read it tomorrow when i get home intresting thanks
cavemanmoron
Well-Known Member
back up to the top for others to see.
jerkyboy
Well-Known Member
I just received an email from the prior owner of my Dart who said he used foil faced insulation that came in three foot rolls from Lowes. I'm now thinking that when I install new carpet this winter that I should remove all the insulation and purchase a product that specifically made for sound deadening??
Actually jerkyboy, a lot of people announce they're going to use it but I can't remember anyone offhand who followed up later with whether or not they made a good decision. Anyone???
I decided to use the "less costly" Peel and Seal from Lowes and I feel it worked great (see FABO link below). Left the top down and it molded easy into all areas. AND I dont notice any tar odor... and it sat in the sun all day! Have to finish the front and then put down the sound deadner and carpet. Im hoping this will keep some of the heat out and keep the rumble to a low roar. It has also got rid of some of that old car smell...
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=82832&page=3
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=82832&page=3
jerkyboy
Well-Known Member
Did the peel and seal come in three foot rolls? Also, you are going over the peel and seal with sound deadener? I hear you about the old car smell; I'm hoping new carpeting will take care of that for me.
Each roll was 6" x 25' actually.
jerkyboy
Well-Known Member
What about the sound deadener.....you're going over the peel and seal with sound deadener too?
If it doesnt create a problem with the carpet install. Its only about 1/8" thick if I remember right (its boxed up in the shed) and comes in a few different pieces. I think front, back, and hump.
I got a great deal on it on Ebay... and figured if it keeps more of the heat out and cut some of the sound- the better!
I have a convertible with no A/C! so the top/windows are down more than not. I get enough heat and rumble as it is.
Ill let you know how it works out.
I got a great deal on it on Ebay... and figured if it keeps more of the heat out and cut some of the sound- the better!
I have a convertible with no A/C! so the top/windows are down more than not. I get enough heat and rumble as it is.
Ill let you know how it works out.
naji408
Well-Known Member
Thought I should bump...I love this site!!!
weldedrail
Well-Known Member
So I'm cutting and buffing my new paint and here comes my neighbor from across the street. Compliments my paint and I show him the difference between the fresh paint and the cut and buffed. Next thing you know we are talking about sound deadner and he says he will be right back. He brings over 2 and a half rolls of sound deadner that he had bought for his Honda Pilot. aparently Honda is pretty skimpy on sound deadending material to save weight to get those fuel economy ratings. He bought too much so he gave me the rest. SCORE!
dusterdan
Sublime Member
dang that's a nice neighbor! what brand is the stuff he gave you? looks AWESOME!!!!
naji408
Well-Known Member
Nice come-up dude!!
weldedrail
Well-Known Member
Not shure what brand but it's the right price!
Ya'll really like to spend money: The most effective ways to Thermally Iinsulate is to install 'mass' & to tighten-up the 'envelope'. This means that you need thickness &/or density in your insulation. Incidentally, these are also the primary requirements for Sound Attenuateion.
The most effective (& economical) way for you to achieve both of these goals is:
1) MASS: Get some nice carpet padding (you might even find some for FREE) &
just put it under your carpet. If you want to get fancy & spray on some sound
deadener, undercoating, or other thick (& ROUGH textured) compund, go for it.
2) TIGHTEN UP: Tape Up/Seal all holes, openings, cracks, etc. Sound, especially,
will travel around any opening. Thus, any of your hard work will be negated if
sound has even the smallest way to infiltrate the space. This is especially
critical if you've spent a lot of dough on DynaMax, or Fat-Axx, or whatever.
3) RADIANT BARRIER:If you want to feel cool with that foil-look, then at least do it
inexpensively. A Radiant barrier is really not needed on a car's underside. The
main heat is mostly localized to the exhaust & engine, so those are the
only areas that may need it. Go get aluminum foil at Wal-Mart (or better yet,
Family Dollar). Then apply it w/ that Super77 or other spray adhesive. If you
want, you can try using Boards of Rigid Insulation w/ the Foil facing (abt $9 per
32sf/4'x8' sht). It will provide some themal mass & a radiant barrier, but will be
less effective w/ the acoustics. If you used the rigid board w/ carpet padding,
though, you'd get a pretty good assembly. It'll be thick, about an extra
1-1.75", but that isn't too bad in an A-Body.
FWIW, I design bldgs for a living (at least in better times). A large part of my career dealt w/ designing Broadcast Audio Booths/TVStudios,etc. So I have a bit of experience to bring to the game. Also, I did the Carpet Padding route in my '67 B/Cuda & it really makes a big difference. I do have the std leaks during rain, so the need to keep the car dry is important w/ the extra mass.
If you attack the actual LAWS of Thermodynamics & Acoustics, then you'll make a quieter & cooler interior. However, if you only look to the LAWS of Marketing, then you'll spend too much money of stuff that will provide little satisfaction.
The most effective (& economical) way for you to achieve both of these goals is:
1) MASS: Get some nice carpet padding (you might even find some for FREE) &
just put it under your carpet. If you want to get fancy & spray on some sound
deadener, undercoating, or other thick (& ROUGH textured) compund, go for it.
2) TIGHTEN UP: Tape Up/Seal all holes, openings, cracks, etc. Sound, especially,
will travel around any opening. Thus, any of your hard work will be negated if
sound has even the smallest way to infiltrate the space. This is especially
critical if you've spent a lot of dough on DynaMax, or Fat-Axx, or whatever.
3) RADIANT BARRIER:If you want to feel cool with that foil-look, then at least do it
inexpensively. A Radiant barrier is really not needed on a car's underside. The
main heat is mostly localized to the exhaust & engine, so those are the
only areas that may need it. Go get aluminum foil at Wal-Mart (or better yet,
Family Dollar). Then apply it w/ that Super77 or other spray adhesive. If you
want, you can try using Boards of Rigid Insulation w/ the Foil facing (abt $9 per
32sf/4'x8' sht). It will provide some themal mass & a radiant barrier, but will be
less effective w/ the acoustics. If you used the rigid board w/ carpet padding,
though, you'd get a pretty good assembly. It'll be thick, about an extra
1-1.75", but that isn't too bad in an A-Body.
FWIW, I design bldgs for a living (at least in better times). A large part of my career dealt w/ designing Broadcast Audio Booths/TVStudios,etc. So I have a bit of experience to bring to the game. Also, I did the Carpet Padding route in my '67 B/Cuda & it really makes a big difference. I do have the std leaks during rain, so the need to keep the car dry is important w/ the extra mass.
If you attack the actual LAWS of Thermodynamics & Acoustics, then you'll make a quieter & cooler interior. However, if you only look to the LAWS of Marketing, then you'll spend too much money of stuff that will provide little satisfaction.
-
