DYNO disaster ? Help

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63dartman said:
I would swap out the intake and carb first. The performer intake has the small runners for a 318. A performer rpm or large runner intake will match up to your ports alot better. And x2 on the edelbrock to holley swap for the carb. And check to make sure your gas pedal is using the full travel of your throttle. I had that issue, Gas pedal was only opening the carb 3/4 of the full travel. Good luck in finding better numbers.
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I checked and the carb is wide open. holly might be the next step
 
crackedback said:
On timing, it's probably going to want 15-20 initial and around 35 total. You will likely need to adjust the mechanical advance in your distributor. If it's a newer model MP, it's pretty easy to do.
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yep . its at 18 idle and 36 at 3000. now whats the mechanical advance. I have the vacuum advance plugged off.
 
Remow2112 said:
Carb is a little big.
Get an MSD 6a or 6al and MSD coil. Make sure that you are getting good spark. Disconnect the vacuum advance.
Set your total timing to 34 - 36 degrees. Check it with an adj timing light at 5500 rpm. (I use 34 cause the best gas I can get is 91 octane. With 93 I would be more inclined to try 36 advance.)

For the record I had a really similar setup in my Volare and never did better then 14.1 1/4 mile.

Dan...
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its at 36 at 3000
 
Prine said:
Your engine is right inline with your mods....like everyone else says, the "Performer" intake is made for 273/318's. A Edelbrock RPM AirGap is the intake you want.

Theoretically, the edelbrock 800cfm carb is capable, but I would get a Holley 750-3310 vac. secondary, and jet it accordingly to get 13.5-14:1 at cruise/idle, and 11.8-12.5 under WOT.


Then, I would get rid of that Orange Box, and upgrade to a MSD, or Jacobs Electronics Ignition.

13.50 - 13.80 @ 105ish is right inline with 275hp at the wheels in a 3200+ lb car....sorry, its the math...it never lies.

The stuff I just told you would probably yield another 100hp at the wheels properly tuned and extend your rpm range another couple hundred RPM.
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So I do have the performer rpm. I just didn't specify . My a/f mixture print out says 14.13 at 3000 rpm and 12.20 at w.o.t . The msd and jacobs easy to install ?
Thanks for the deatils
 
Babyblue66 said:
You say 9 or 9.5 to 1 comp. You don't sound too sure on the compression. Do you know what pistons are in the motor. Anything stock will give you 8 to 1 at most.
It would be nice to know how far in the hole they were when installed.

Also, as said that intake is for a milder or smaller engine.
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The build sheet says 9-1 to 9.5-1 . probably so they wouldn't have to liability.
Thanks
 
SSDA67 said:
The Carb Is Fine...NEVER Too Big For A Carburetor..All You Ever Have To Do Is TUNE It For Your Engine.I Have A 984 CFM Carb Shop Carb On My Small Blocks.It Has Been On Everything From A 416 To A 318 Stocker.Also Had It On Several Big Blocks.It Has 50 MM Squirters And 50 CC Pumps...

I Would Set The TOTAL Timing At 34-36 At 3500RPM With The Advance Unhooked And The Line To It And The Carb Plugged.The Intake You Have Is A Problem.The Fuel Is PUDDLING In The Plenum.This Is What Happens On And FLAT Manifold If You Were To Put A 2" Spacer On The Intake You Will Get A Lil More Tq And HP.
Next Set Your CL(Center Line)Of The Cam At 104-106o(It Probably Requires 110-112o).This Is Where Your Tq Will Increase Drastically.
Use a "2"HOTTER Spark Plug.I Use Champion,Bosch,NGK Or Autolite Race Platinum Plugs.The Bosch And The NGK Are "9"'s.
The Torque Converter You Are Using Is Waaaay Too Loose For What You Are Wanting To Do.I Use Basically The Same Converter On All My Engines...I Use A 38-4200 That Is TIGHT!....
Put A 999(2.77 Ratio)Low Gear In The Trans And A 4.10-4.56 Rear Gear.I Bet It'll Run 13.00 12.90's with just these Mods.
I Dont Like That Cam Either.Id Put A .484 or .509 In It.


Just MHO And What I Have Experienced...


SS
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WOW thanks. So I do have the rpm manifold and the vacuum advance
is plugged. I just got the autolite platinum plugs today. Thats funny. How do i adjust the center line of the cam? The converter at 3800-4000 will be ok for daily driving? How do I CHANGE THE PLUG BY the driver side header.
i cant get in there. I can change 7 but not that last one.
 
lead69 said:
I agree with the intake beign a restriction,there are also better cams but thats in the ball park and should be fine,and as others said cehck/update the ignition.One thing not mentioned but directly relates to your e.t. is your convertor.Any off the shelf convertor is suspect and most are flat out junk,they never stall where they should and most are too tight.At 103 mph Ive ran 12.90s at that speed so theres some losses in your drivetrain.
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Its a tci street performer 1800-2500
 
So the best way to get my trq up is go to a bigger stall? 3,000. can i drive it everyday.
 
if you get a new converter they are very streetable...call the guy at ACC aka Boss hog...Their on Ebay and are good converters or call Hugues? I like Acc
 
Before you go getting more radical in gearing and convertor, I'd be looking into what your engine builder did. It's about 40-50hp shy of 375 if the dyno can be trusted. BTW, I rana dyno shop fopr a while. The racier the package, the less likely the dyno will spit out anything you can use. So for your car, a mild package and street stall, it's probably pretty close. This is why I'd start witht he basics. What is the true compression ratio as measured (pull a head off)? What does it have for cylinder pressure (measured before you pull the head)? And what camshaft (part number) was installed? If you dont want to pull the head... Just get a $10 compression gage and the reciept and answer the second two. You DONT need a 4K stall or 4.56s. The engine's soft for some reason.
 
First off, Good to hear from ya Prine. Second, Eighty Five Hundred Dollars? WOW !! I know things are higher in the big metropolitan areas but for that money? Stock heads with the intake your using with the carb combo? Dont think you are using all the fuel that the carb can supply. Compression seems a bit low until we really know what it is. If it's really 275 to the rear on a stock build 360? Not sure you could expect much more, but $8500 on a stock build?
Small Block
 
I would ditch that orange box, my car never ran right with one of those things. You can go to local parts store, ask for ign module for '73 Dart 318, and get something that works better then that. Or go with the Mopar chrome box. Also make sure ign box is grounded well. When I used to run one I ran a dedicated wire from ign box to engine just to be sure.

Make sure bulk head connector on the fire wall is free of corrosion. I like to pull them off, spray Electrical Parts Cleaner in there, put some dielectric grease in, and put them back together. Look under dash and make sure all connectors are pushed in tight into the bulk head connector.

I would do a compression test like Moper said that would give some idea what compression is. I would find out what pistons and what head gaskets were used if you can.
 
pilotsf said:
Its a tci street performer 1800-2500
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My comment about your convertor isnt so much about the dyno results as your quarter mile times.Assuming your hooking something is a bit out of whack,you should run in the lower 13s to high 12s with the mph posted,one of my cars ran 12.90s all day at 103.Ive found that tci,b&m ect. are not very consistent in terms of overall quality to say the least,you may have a good one but its rare.Overall even with the engine in its current form you could run faster with the car but I would also say the engine currently isnt a true 375 h.p. based on your mph either.
 
Can you show a copy of the dyno pull so
I can see what happened when?
Also a copy of the engine build sheet if you have it.
 
Small Block said:
First off, Good to hear from ya Prine. Second, Eighty Five Hundred Dollars? WOW !! I know things are higher in the big metropolitan areas but for that money? Stock heads with the intake your using with the carb combo? Dont think you are using all the fuel that the carb can supply. Compression seems a bit low until we really know what it is. If it's really 275 to the rear on a stock build 360? Not sure you could expect much more, but $8500 on a stock build?
Small Block
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Yep. Its not a pure stock engine. Its a screamer and radical idle. That price was complete turn key. Port polished heads, Engine, k member change from slant 6, new steering box, all the add on parts , electrical,tax labor to install, and complete trans build and install and drive shaft. I still wanted at least 300 hp and 325 trq at the wheels. The builder told me the motor was 385hp/385trq at the crank. rettig bros drag racing built the motor.
 
lead69 said:
My comment about your convertor isnt so much about the dyno results as your quarter mile times.Assuming your hooking something is a bit out of whack,you should run in the lower 13s to high 12s with the mph posted,one of my cars ran 12.90s all day at 103.Ive found that tci,b&m ect. are not very consistent in terms of overall quality to say the least,you may have a good one but its rare.Overall even with the engine in its current form you could run faster with the car but I would also say the engine currently isnt a true 375 h.p. based on your mph either.
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what converter do you suggest.
 
longarm said:
Can you show a copy of the dyno pull so
I can see what happened when?
Also a copy of the engine build sheet if you have it.
Click to expand...

I will copy it tonight and try to post it in the same forum here.
 
longarm said:
Can you show a copy of the dyno pull so
I can see what happened when?
Also a copy of the engine build sheet if you have it.
Click to expand...

here is the sheet

mopar.jpg


mopar2.jpg


mopar3.jpg
 
i would listen to what most of the guys here said- carb and intake swap before anything...a 3310 would do you well, and an rpm air gap will definatly help out, especially in the upper mid range without going to a single plane...as far as cams go, it seems like you have the same cam as me- it sounds radical, but thats about it lol...if you wanted to go replacing cams later id look for something with a little bit more lift, but first id try the carb and intake swap, and maybe fiddling with a new converter...im actually interested to see how this turns out for you since your combo is similar to mine (340, 280H cam, headers, holley 750hp, and if you up the manifold to an air gap like me too)...good luck! oh, and 8500 bucks is HUGE money for a stock rebuild
 
That is actually a really nice Dyno Sheet.

It made 299/ ft lbs from 3800 - 4300
and Peak Hp at 5100.

Nice AFR's....a tad lean from 5300-5500., but its tolerable since peak power already happened.

It appears low on flow somewhere for the price you paid....but it is what it is.
9:1 CR and .480" lift cam wont be a monster....but you honestly should have gotten another 50-75 whp for the $$$$....I attribute it to the Performer RPM, and the MP Orange Box....I personally have never had ANY luck with a Orange Box.

Ohh and I am gonna say it!! Just because the mufflers say FLOW - master, the only thing flowmaster ever mastered was getting the money to flow out of customer pockets.....they are a restrictive muffler....designed to make a "sound", not FLOW.

If power is a concern, but you must be muffled, you want a straight through Glass Pack style muffler.
 
mshred said:
i would listen to what most of the guys here said- carb and intake swap before anything...a 3310 would do you well, and an rpm air gap will definatly help out, especially in the upper mid range without going to a single plane...as far as cams go, it seems like you have the same cam as me- it sounds radical, but thats about it lol...if you wanted to go replacing cams later id look for something with a little bit more lift, but first id try the carb and intake swap, and maybe fiddling with a new converter...im actually interested to see how this turns out for you since your combo is similar to mine (340, 280H cam, headers, holley 750hp, and if you up the manifold to an air gap like me too)...good luck! oh, and 8500 bucks is HUGE money for a stock rebuild
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Thanks for the awesome input
The price breakdown maybe i miss lead u guys

Trans Rebuild heavy duty 904 $1000.00
Tci Stall $375.00
K member (was slant 6) $200.00
Mounts/ bolts/kick down $100.00
Labor to do complete job a-z $1500.00
Turn key complete motor
Hoses ,Radiator,starter, a-z $5375.00
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$8550.00
No core discounts
I don't even know what the tax was in this total. Is that a better price ?
 
Too bad you're not closer, we could pull the 750 vac sec carb off my car and you'd see a big seat of the pants difference.
 
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