E85 vs 91 for street

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Me either! I guess I am just old and set in my carbureted gasoline ways. But "I just bet" that there's somebody out there in aftermarket land that has something that can make it happen.

I've been selling a couple hundred E85 & Gas tune combos for 03-05 Srt-4 Turbos for about 6 years now. They're specifically designed to easily swap between E85 and Pump Gas. Just run the tank below 1/8 and as the car is filling up with the "other" fuel, flash the matching tune.
 
just wondering, with today’s vehicles that are Flex Fuel capable, I have read more than once that the fuel mileage really goes down when running E85 compared to regular gas.
Wonder how much of that mileage loss is because the Flex Fuel motor is not compensating for the higher compression that E85 is capable of running when compared to regular gas?

Yes mileage suffers but at least arounf here, E85 is a quite a bit cheaper than 87oct and a LOT cheaper than 93oct, so its either saving money or a wash.

New flex fuel cars are typically over 10.1 compression(some over 12.1) and use variable valve timing in take advantage of the higher octane of E85. The PCM calibration is smart enough to know how much Ethanol is being used and adjust the cam timing and ignition timing accordingly.
 
Yes mileage suffers but at least arounf here, E85 is a quite a bit cheaper than 87oct and a LOT cheaper than 93oct, so its either saving money or a wash.

New flex fuel cars are typically over 10.1 compression(some over 12.1) and use variable valve timing in take advantage of the higher octane of E85. The PCM calibration is smart enough to know how much Ethanol is being used and adjust the cam timing and ignition timing accordingly.
Are new flex fuel motors really over 10 to 1 compression? How do they do that when running regular gas?
 
Are new flex fuel motors really over 10 to 1 compression? How do they do that when running regular gas?
Oh yeah. Over 10:1 is really common. The 2016 3.6 pentastar is 11.5:1 which is decent for port injection. A couple small direct injected 4cyl are over 12:1. Running an Atkinson cycle, direct injection and/or cooled egr help them run knock free on 87oct.

Toyota is coming out with variable compression gas 4cly. It varies cr from 9:1 with high boost port+direct injection and 14:1 at low loads with direct injection
 
dstem,

You could run a FiTech FI setup and easily switch back and forth from E-85 and Fossil Fuel. Just recalc your cubic inches in the setup by plus X .30 to compensate for the consumption rate. Bingo!

I have a Ford F-150 5.0 Coyote that is a flex fuel truck. With a bunch Kroger fuel points I bought E-85 for 1.10 a gallon. It will automatically raise the HP from 360 to 375 as the ECU adjusts. I lost maybe 5 mpg. There are very few E-85 stations in Cincinnati. Also the cold start is a little bit sketchy on a new tank. I am running 93 primarily in the truck it likes that too but not as well but close per the butt dyno.

Marion
 
Are new flex fuel motors really over 10 to 1 compression? How do they do that when running regular gas?
IMO, aluminum heads are a much bigger deal than is common knowledge; I mean beyond performance at WOT.
Some of us run deep into the 10s and into 11/1 Scr with them and tickle 200psi cylinder pressure, and run pumpgas. I myself, have run 3 different cams under some old Eddies. I started with the 292/508/108 cam, that I measured at [email protected]. Then a 270/280/110 that was 223/230, and finally a 276/286/110, that was /is 230/237 . I adjusted the Scr in each case, to be in the zone from 175 to 185 psi............to burn 87E10. That's a range of 23*@.050 or a tic over 3 cam sizes. Now imagine if I had DOHC heads and automatic cam-phasers on that 367, and didn't have to pull the cams out any more, or adjust the Scr.
IMO, there is more to aluminum heads that I don't understand. And it has to do with the way they shed heat.
If you have a set, you will notice how much heat they put into the underhood. It's a freaken oven under there. As soon as I had my engine broken in, I knew I was in trouble. That heat was cooking my IAT, and my carb was very unhappy about it.So the first thing I did was get fresh cold air to it.
So now that I had a stable carb, I came to a sortof understanding that the heads were shedding heat, like big radiators. So I upped the minimum coolant temp from 180* to 205*, and immediately thought I picked up a buncha torque. But if I thought it was hot under the hood before.... well, now, it was like Hades under there. So I took steps to get rid of some of that heat. And I took steps to make sure the cooling system was reliable.And now I was making some power, and loving it.
IMO, at part-throttle operation,those aluminum heads suck so much heat out of the chambers, that even at 11.3Scr , that 87E10 was not able to detonate. Even at near 200psi, I found no evidence of it. And I took that engine apart every winter 5 in a row. And so, I began to experiment with low-rpm timing and leaner running. And I found a good chunk of Part-Throttle torque. I think it was torque that should have been there all along, and with iron heads probably would have been, but the EFFECTIVE compression ratio just wasn't there on account of the energy in the fuel was going into heat, instead of the driveshaft. Running 205 gave me some of that back.
IMO though, as rpm rises, there is less time for the heat to escape or be transferred , and so the Hi-compression starts to make a nice fat PartThrottle torque curve. Then as the Rpm rises at WOT, there is even less time for the heat of combustion to escape thru the aluminum, and then that hi pressure makes a lot of power.
These are my opinions based on personal observations over the many years of running this engine, since 1999, and over 100,000 miles.
The biggest contributors to the formation of this opinion are;
1) In the one and only successful run I ever made, it hit 93 and change in the 1/8th, at 3467# . It's just a 367, with a 230 cam; it shouldn't go that fast. Mr Wallace converts that to over 400hp
2) it will idle down to 550rpm, with the 10.97 starter gear,( M/T) and pull itself around the parking lot, on flat,hard,level ground.
3) with a 223* cam, and overdrive, I could suck huge fuel economy out of it.
4) most gearheads that have been in it, think it could be a BB......
So, IMO, if/when auto manufacturers caught on to this, (And I think those boys are way smarter than me), they brought us a whole new crop of hi-performance engines in plain wrappers, some/many with VVT. I only discovered this by the many,many, hours of on-road experimentation, beginning in 1999......cuz I wanted to know.....why this engine was so powerful, with this little 223 cam, and beginning in 2004 with the 230 cam.
So here's a winning street combo;a cam in the 225 /235 zone, aluminum heads at a minimum 8.7Dcr/185psi, and Q of .034/.040, and run her dependably HOT. And this is not on the "edge" yet, as I run it on 87E10 ALL the time, for over 100,000 miles.
If fuel economy is a concern, get the power stroke up to 112/115*. You can do this with a cam on the smaller side with a 110LSA; or, if you have an M/T,tighten it up to 106/104, and then stretch the intake duration out to 230/235. My next cam will be a SFT and target 235/241/104 and will spec at a minimum 68* of overlap, yet about 115* of power-stroke, to suck some energy out of all that hhhhhhhhhhhotness ; and I'm increasing the pressure even more........if I can find a thinner gasket to survive, I'm targeting 190plus psi.
Why?
Because I want to know.
And because I have those expensive aluminum heads, and need to justify the purchase, and they're too small for a stroker,lol. Ok, I just made this part up. I actually just want better fuel mileage.........lol.
Naw the real reason is; if it works, you aluminum headed 360 street-guys will hear about it, and never think about strokers ever again!
And
because they don't make DOHC heads for my 360 nor automatic cam phasers.
 
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Books by AJ also available on line...

11.3-1 & 87 octane?

Where’s the BS flag!
 
Books by AJ also available on line...

11.3-1 & 87 octane?

Where’s the BS flag!

Well, I see you read at least the first paragraph, the one I specifically wrote for you,cuz I expected you to bark, and expressly qualified it with IMO. You can't argue against opinion, it's an unwinnable endeavor.
I said; 87E10
and I said, "Some of us run deep into the 10s and into 11/1 Scr with them and tickle 200psi cylinder pressure, and run pumpgas"........... I didn't say I did......But truthfully, I have run 11.3-Scr with the 292/508/108 cam. The current cam runs 10.9, and you're welcome to come over and measure it.
As you well know;
Detonation is initiated, whenever the heat in the chamber exceeds the ability of the selected fuel to resist auto-ignition. Ergo; no excess heat,no detonation. So it's a simple thing, to keep the heat below auto-ignition.
Like I said, IMO,aluminum sucks a lot of heat out of the chamber, allowing the designer/builder,Me in this case, to experiment; and since I didn't understand it....I did experiment.
You're welcome to your opinion, of course, but looking for the BS-flag, I think is a bit harsh.....especially since others right here on FABO, have stated they run 200psi and more,on pumpgas. Besides, I have over 100,000 miles on this engine, and it has almost never run on anything else. Had it been detonating,I'mthinking,it wouldn't have made it this far on hypers and used teener rods.
But for those who may be interested;
Proper timing delays the heat/pressure rise to a point in the pistons travel, where it also doesn't create the pressure spike, that leads to detonation.
So; unlike some, and contrary to popular thinking,I don't run idle-timing of 18 to 25 nor 25/35 at 2500 rpm. My engine is married to the rear tires, by the manual trans, so that might spell the death rattle. And besides, at 10.9Scr,with a 276/286/110 cam, it would be a bucking bronco as soon as I slipped the clutch out. No, I run a nice gentle 14* , cuz I have all this hi-pressure available,at the flick of my toe. I don't need to resort to that kind of abuse. And so I can dump the clutch, and motor away, without so much as a peep of complaint. The 10.97 starter gear buzzes the Rs up plenty quick, making it easy on the engine, and I can, if so inclined, floor it at very-low rpm, without fear, even at extremely-low rpm if the tires are already spinning,lol. Sometimes I put the line lock on, and break the tires loose at a light. Then idle it down to some lower, not observed rpm, where the tires are just barely spinning. So I'll guess 800to1000 rpm. And when the light turns green, I'll give you one guess what's gonna happen next....... that's right, the 750 Holley-Double-Pumper is gonna get a workout. The T-port is nicely synced, the pump is fully charged, and she's eager to please.
If you were to call bs on me, you'd also be calling BS on all those other FABO guys that say they are running; even closer to the edge.
 
Enough overlap to bleed off cylinder pressure, richer A/F, timing, perfect quench, cool aluminum heads to suck some heat out, I don't see why higher compression and/or lower octane is not possible. Getting the balance right of all variables is the key so you don't wind up with a dog or knock machine.


Just look what Chrysler does with its VVT on the 3.6 Pentastar so it can not only run safely on 87oct but also pass strict NOx emissions with 10.5 cr.
Basically using VVT for a little EGR.


Intake Cam centerline timing
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Exhaust Cam Centerline timing

upload_2018-2-12_11-36-18.png
 
Sorry AJ, I only got half way through the first paragraph.

iMO, ...... LMAO

BRING ON THE FACTS BRO!!!

When are you writing a book?
You should put your thoughts down on paper.
No joke!
 
been watching this thread as I am well into a motor build that I plan to run E85 in.
I do the slant six stuff, already have a slant with MPFI with a MS3Pro running the fuel and ignition side, the car currently has a regular gas motor that has some work done to it, probably around 165 HP.
The E85 motor being built is planned to be a 300 HP motor, built using a '87 block, head and lightweight cast crank, raised compression, large cam, os valves, K1 rods and KB pistons.

Concerning setting the car up for E85,
* swapped in a Walbro F90000267 pump kit, that kit was an ez swap into the Tanks Inc canister
* added a AC Delco 13577379 flex fuel sensor, one wire to power, one wire to ground and one wire to the MS3Pro for the electrical portion
* confirmed with Areomotive that the fuel pressure regulator already installed is E85 compatible
* confirmed that the WIX 3399R filter that fits in the already installed Fram HPG1 is E85 compatible
* the car has a full return fuel system, mostly custom stainless tubing, there is about 6 feet of flex hose with AN fitting at the tank and engine ends,, I will change that out for PTFE flex hose with the PTFE fittings,, mentally I went back and forth on changing out the existing flex hose, figured that for a hundred or so dollars and a days work, just do it and then the hoses are done.
* I have an aluminum fuel rail, there is a shop near by that does anodizing, I'll get the rail anodized, then just like the flex hose issue, its done.

plan is to get the car going on E85 with the existing 165 HP motor, After I have confidence in what I am doing with the tune, swap in the 300 HP motor.
 
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Hey 70aar Cuda!! I run a 850 thermoquad. It is tweaked for a 440. .101 front jets rears are .145 and 1966 metering rods. Can it work with E85?
 
phone in freak out mode I think.

Stuck in posting hell.
 
Hey 70aar Cuda!! I run a 850 thermoquad. It is tweaked for a 440. .101 front jets rears are .145 and 1966 metering rods. Can it work with E85?

There are several companies that convert gas carbs to e85 carbs but never seen anyone offer to convert a thermoquad to e85. I have seen some Eddy carb now being converted...
It takes more then just increasing the jet size...the internal passages have to be enlarged also, that is why an holley is so simple to convert cause the metering block can be swapped out.

use google and see if anyone is doing them....about all I can say

Short and simple...LOL
 
There are several companies that convert gas carbs to e85 carbs but never seen anyone offer to convert a thermoquad to e85. I have seen some Eddy carb now being converted...
It takes more then just increasing the jet size...the internal passages have to be enlarged also, that is why an holley is so simple to convert cause the metering block can be swapped out.

use google and see if anyone is doing them....about all I can say

Short and simple...LOL
I can switch my FAST 2.0 back and forth by punching on the handheld. Will I? No, the dam stuff
ain`t good for old style gas tanks and steel lines, not to mention alum parts, the exra bad mileage.
I make more power on 91 cat piss than I can use anyway.
 
Most all Pump gas has at least 10% Ethanol if not 15%.
You should already be using Ethanol SAFE fuel system components and whenever new parts are purchased, it'd be wise to ensure they're E85 safe.

My Swinger is getting modern Nylon fuel line and oem quick connects for its supply and return.

VERY Lightweight and E85 Safe.
I've used this Dorman kit 800-300 on several other cars.

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the e85 is much more economical in states like mine (iowa) where it is only $1.87 a gallon right now, while premium 91 is $2.95 and really you cant compare it to pump gas prices anyways, because the only real reason to run it is if you have a motor with high enough compression/boost that it would require race gas. also the whole e85 is heavily subsidized thing.... how much do you think your regular pump gas is? how many big tax breaks and other deals are your big oil companies getting? hell saudi arabia is literally making deals to cut down gas production to keep the prices up, i dont see why so many people want to bring down something that is made in the usa. i run it in my daily driver pickup with flex fuel capability and in my 505" stroker duster with nearly 12-1 compression (Would have gone higher with the compression if i could've found a piston that would have raised the compression even more) im all for it!
 
I run E85, 9:1 c/r, iron heads, with 10 lbs of boost, fuel injected. It’s cheap race gas. The extra fuel being flowed really helps cool down piston temps. Also keeps those valves very clean. A NA engine would need to be built with a lot of compression to take advantage of it. 12:1 is good for it. Don’t bother with e85 and anything below that.

I can use megasquirt to switch back and forth between gas and e85. To take most advantage, the ignition timing can be further advanced than it could with pump gas.

Winter use kinda sucks. Anything below freezing and e85 can be a pain to start up unless you have an amazing fuel/spark tune. I usually inject some ether/gas mix on a cold day. A block heater would help
 
Its Cheap race gas. The extra fuel being flowed really helps cool down piston temps.

that is exactly why I am setting up to use E85

the Engine Masters video mentions a 30 degree reduction in manifold temps.
 
Most all Pump gas has at least 10% Ethanol if not 15%.
You should already be using Ethanol SAFE fuel system components and whenever new parts are purchased, it'd be wise to ensure they're E85 safe.

My Swinger is getting modern Nylon fuel line and oem quick connects for its supply and return.

VERY Lightweight and E85 Safe.
I've used this Dorman kit 800-300 on several other cars.

View attachment 1715141597
91 octane non ethanol gas is quite prevalent around here, I can think of three places , w/in 10 miles of me. Uncoated metal tanks do not like ethanol, sooner or later--------------
 
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