What's twice the price? I can get stock rods reworked for a tick less than the Eagles. How do you know the Eagles are up to the task? I just don't trust chinese metallurgy. Good luck with it!
Eagle SIR6123CB rods Vs stock.
- Thread starter Barra_67
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I believe I would choose the stock rods over the SIR. Several years ago, the Eagle SIR rods had a bad rep. Deserved or not, I don't know. If I was shopping for an entry level rod, I would go with the Scats.
New rods v recon. The cost difference.
Also depends on where you live. For we Aussies, you are better off buying new rods if you are working on a popular engine that have Scat/Eagle replacements. With labour rates at $80-120, it is a no brainer: buy new rods. You are also getting a better grade of steel & a lighter rod.
Also depends on where you live. For we Aussies, you are better off buying new rods if you are working on a popular engine that have Scat/Eagle replacements. With labour rates at $80-120, it is a no brainer: buy new rods. You are also getting a better grade of steel & a lighter rod.
That is debatable.
I meant Callies vs Eagle pricing.
Gotchya. That's the price of GOOD, NEW metallurgy.
Dan the man
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For your goal, a factory rod will do what you want. I think that 1973 had the better rods. For the power that you are looking at you don't need I or H beam rods. I think that speed pro has a tall ch piston for a 318 and they are friction coated. Kb's are tune sensitive and ring gap has to be dead on.
Would you have a part number for those speed pro pistons?
I bought the Eagle rods. Roughly same price as getting new bolts and stock rods resized.
Dan the man
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I'll see if I still have it. Can't blame you for that. What the rods cost you? Are they made in China?
Dan the man
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I looked up the pistons and they are for the 360's. The speed pro pistons will be 0.097" down the bore and the one's for the 360's are like 0.020"
Cost $400AUD ($290USD) plus about 3 hours driving. Yep. China.
Bakerlite
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I would appreciate you not talking for all of us down under.
It doesn't take all day to resize a set of rods and I don't reach for a new set all the time just for the sake of it, especially on engines that have good factory rods.
It's about $570 Au for those rods from Summit, to Sydney ( more if your Regional) delivered to your door. Maybe less if you find someone local who's got them cheap for whatever reason
Then you would need them checked for size anyway, because they are the cheaper end of the Chinese rods.
Oh yeah, then make sure the pistons take floaters.
Tell you what Barra, if you get new rods, I'll buy those factory ones for $20 plus postage.
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Was about $650 delivered to me from summit. I’ll keep my stock rods.I would appreciate you not talking for all of us down under.
It doesn't take all day to resize a set of rods and I don't reach for a new set all the time just for the sake of it, especially on engines that have good factory rods.
It's about $570 Au for those rods from Summit, to Sydney ( more if your Regional) delivered to your door. Maybe less if you find someone local who's got them cheap for whatever reason
Then you would need them checked for size anyway, because they are the cheaper end of the Chinese rods.
Oh yeah, then make sure the pistons take floaters.
Tell you what Barra, if you get new rods, I'll buy those factory ones for $20 plus postage.
Bakerlite,
Post # 37. How would I or anybody else know where you are...if you don't tell us. If you are in Australia, then you must be pretty ignorant [ which you showed with LSA/LCA ] about labour costs here which are much higher than for our friends in the US. I assume the factory rods have pressed pins & Barra would probably have to pay to have the pistons removed. More expense. Then there is the added cost of new rod bolts.....
And you claim the new rods would need to be 'checked for size'. What makes you think the person closing & honing used rods couldn't make a mistake? Wouldn't these need to be checked for size?
Post # 37. How would I or anybody else know where you are...if you don't tell us. If you are in Australia, then you must be pretty ignorant [ which you showed with LSA/LCA ] about labour costs here which are much higher than for our friends in the US. I assume the factory rods have pressed pins & Barra would probably have to pay to have the pistons removed. More expense. Then there is the added cost of new rod bolts.....
And you claim the new rods would need to be 'checked for size'. What makes you think the person closing & honing used rods couldn't make a mistake? Wouldn't these need to be checked for size?
Bakerlite
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You still crying about LSA,LCA?? That's sad.. You use your terms and I'll use mine..
Does it matter you didn't know I am an Aussie?
You just shouldn't be doing it in the first place..
Not to mention the fact that I have referenced places here in Australia like Max Wedge at Dural and called you a "bogan". Maybe you should just pay more attention?
Talk about being ignorant
Our labour costs are high, but so are our wages. You left that little tidbit out, didn't you?
It doesn't take long to press off pistons, and if you've ever done it yourself, you'd know that.
Most machinists will do it as a job lot.
If you ask, a machinist will run a bore gauge in your honed rods while your there to verify the size. That's a bit hard to do when it's being done in China.
Want the rod bore set to the minimum or anywhere you want? The machinist can do that too.
Fitting better rod bolts is part of the cost because that's what the actual upgrade is all about.
Now why don't you go ask David Vizard what your nest opinion should be and get off my lawn..LOL
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K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
Scat, eagle, factory with new bolts they all will do the job no problem.
Bakerlite
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Bakerlite
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Yep, all depends how much $$ you want to spend.
K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
I did an old the thread while back called rod breakers wanted, there's some really good info on just how tough factory rods are. Most rod failures are due to catastrophic failure of other parts that in turn put extreme load on the rods causing a secondary problem broken rod etc. I myself broke a rod cap bolt due to a oil lean deficiency in a 340 the crank continued to beat the rod and bent it about 45 degrees it never did break.
Bakerlite
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Some people are great at reading books and telling others how to spend their money, but it's a different story when your trying build engines to budgets and expectations.
I've seen plenty of engines overcapitalized with parts they didn't need, shoddy workmanship, and owners unhappy about what they cost..
If the OP wants to put his money there, then that's up to him.
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That's right. To date, I've never seen a factory Chrysler rod just "break" without outside influence. Not one. I think you'd be hard pressed to find proof of it. It's almost always "something else" that causes it.
Bakerlite
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Don't underestimate the power of bling
Cylinder heads seem to be another place where this sort of BS goes on..
"By the time we service your factory heads, you may as well get Alloy ones"... That's just not the case in most stock-ish situations.
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B'lite,
Post 41. Doing 'what' in the first place? Giving good advice & advice that is better/different than yours???? Pay more attention to what? Your vast knowledge on LCA/LSA????
And you must be dumber than I thought. The reason I did not mention wages was that was there was no need to mention wages!! Only what the comparative cost would be for someone in this country to have rods reconditioned v the cost of new ones.
And if the cost is higher for new rods, is the extra cost worth it? Yes, in my opinion, when you weigh up all the factors. Because you get a rod that is stronger [ & lighter in some cases ] because it is computer designed to make it strong & light; it is machined on the most modern equipment. And, I believe not mentioned so far, uses cap screws, not a nut & bolt. Nut & bolt requires notching the rod for the bolt head, which reduces metal thickness in a critical area, & a place where factory rods fail. This is not a 180 hp rebuild, OP is hoping for 400 hp.
Post 41. Doing 'what' in the first place? Giving good advice & advice that is better/different than yours???? Pay more attention to what? Your vast knowledge on LCA/LSA????
And you must be dumber than I thought. The reason I did not mention wages was that was there was no need to mention wages!! Only what the comparative cost would be for someone in this country to have rods reconditioned v the cost of new ones.
And if the cost is higher for new rods, is the extra cost worth it? Yes, in my opinion, when you weigh up all the factors. Because you get a rod that is stronger [ & lighter in some cases ] because it is computer designed to make it strong & light; it is machined on the most modern equipment. And, I believe not mentioned so far, uses cap screws, not a nut & bolt. Nut & bolt requires notching the rod for the bolt head, which reduces metal thickness in a critical area, & a place where factory rods fail. This is not a 180 hp rebuild, OP is hoping for 400 hp.
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