Early A-body steering modification

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convx4

convx4

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I have been collecting parts for my 1966 valiant convertible build. At this point I am working on my steering. The car is a factory manual steering and I want to make it fast ratio manual steering. So I was able to get a C-body manual steering box and a NOS C-body manual pitman arm along with a moog idler arm. These are from a 1966,67,68 C-body. I also was able to get the center link. The center link is a little wider but I don't think it will be a problem.

The C-body idler arm is sandwiched by a bracket, while the early a-body is not. My solution is to use the existing bracket and make a lower that will be welded in place.

This is my second prototype version made from sheet meal. the final will be much thicker material.

What are your thoughts.

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question: how fast ratio are you looking to go? i mean, factory 16:1 is already darn quick on the street...

boxing the idler and making it double shear is a good idea. i did that on my 64 & 65. however those were kinda, sorta track cars. i don't know what your final destination is, but unless you're running a pretty aggressive front suspension set up with sizeable tires, just upgrading to a rollerized idler might be enough.

don't get me wrong, i'm all for the double shear mount tho.

the c-barge center may not work in that the width might be a problem (possibly overcome with a custom shorty situation) but more importantly it looks as though it has zero drop which means it may come into contact with the oil pan. or maybe not, it might be far enough back. which, could potentially present a whole other set of issues in the exhaust clearance department.

interesting and ambitious project though!
 
I boxed in my idler with bracket pieces cut off of '68 and later junk K frames, worked well, but sorry no pix. That way I could use cheaper and easier-to-source '68-'72 idler arms.
I agree with junkyardhero though- those C body pitmans and idlers are longer than normal A body parts and could cause some unforeseen interference issues, as well as that C body centerlink. If you're going to run headers, I think fitment will be out the window, and if you're running manifolds then you just moved the centerlink into the only place you've got for a headpipe. Since the pitman and idler are longer, it may drop your centerlink lower so you may not have to be as concerned about oil pan clearance, but I dunno... The extra length of the centerlink and pitman/idler is going to throw your tie rod ends into some funky angles, but to what extent? Again, I dunno. If it was that easy, I don't think Chrysler would have spent the money to tool up for different parts... so be very careful there- it is your steering, and having it go away is not a good feeling.
Personally, I'd get a fast ratio box and call it good.
 
I'm still scratchin my head tryin to figure how using C body junk is gonna make it fast ratio.
 
Professor Fate said:
I boxed in my idler with bracket pieces cut off of '68 and later junk K frames, worked well, but sorry no pix. That way I could use cheaper and easier-to-source '68-'72 idler arms.
I agree with junkyardhero though- those C body pitmans and idlers are longer than normal A body parts and could cause some unforeseen interference issues, as well as that C body centerlink. If you're going to run headers, I think fitment will be out the window, and if you're running manifolds then you just moved the centerlink into the only place you've got for a headpipe. Since the pitman and idler are longer, it may drop your centerlink lower so you may not have to be as concerned about oil pan clearance, but I dunno... The extra length of the centerlink and pitman/idler is going to throw your tie rod ends into some funky angles, but to what extent? Again, I dunno. If it was that easy, I don't think Chrysler would have spent the money to tool up for different parts... so be very careful there- it is your steering, and having it go away is not a good feeling.
Personally, I'd get a fast ratio box and call it good.
Click to expand...
Yup, I would have just gotten a 16:1 or 20:1 ratio worm gear and put it into the existing box. Why reinvent the wheel?
 
RustyRatRod said:
By how much?
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the E's with FR were a 16:1 box with the lengthened arms resulting in a 12:1 ratio

without the criticals and plotting it, i don't know what this set up would be. though starting with anything but a 16:1 box would be an exercise in futility.
 
Professor Fate said:
If you're going to run headers, I think fitment will be out the window, and if you're running manifolds then you just moved the centerlink into the only place you've got for a headpipe. Since the pitman and idler are longer, it may drop your centerlink lower so you may not have to be as concerned about oil pan clearance, but I dunno...
Click to expand...
pfft! that's what fenderwell headers and dry sumps are for!
 
RustyRatRod said:
By how much?
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Too damn much.....lol. I used longer pitman and idler on my 71 Challenger conv, and it has power steering. You know how twitchy normal Chrysler PS of that era was. That car, you can sneeze and be in the ditch if you ain't careful. Next time it needs bushings, I'm puttin it back to normal.

:steering:
 
JDMopar said:
Too damn much.....lol. I used longer pitman and idler on my 71 Challenger conv, and it has power steering. You know how twitchy normal Chrysler PS of that era was. That car, you can sneeze and be in the ditch if you ain't careful. Next time it needs bushings, I'm puttin it back to normal.

:steering:
Click to expand...
no lies. on my previous 64 & 65 darts with 16:1 manual rolling on 15" wide-ish performance/track tires and an aggressive alignment all you needed to do was think about changing lanes and you were one over.
 
I'm using a 20:1 box now and it takes some effort to muscle the steering wheel in slow turns, 16:1 takes more effort, and you want an even quicker ratio? Put some 60-series tires on that and you won't even need to go to the gym!
 
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