Early-A Large Bolt conversion question

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porksoda

porksoda

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I currently have everything to covert my 66 Dart to the large bolt pattern on the front and back. I do have a question though. For the front I have the upper control arm, spindle, and all brake hardware.
Although I am curious if I need to run the Early-A style lower ball joints or do I run the later 73+ style lower ball joint. I think they are both like lower control arm style since they all come in one unit, but I do notice they have different part numbers for the early-A's. Sorry if it is a dumb question. I just want to make sure I get everything together before I start pulling things apart.

Thanks again guys!
 
your going to disc brakes? then get the disc brake ball joint. larger diameter. Lawrence
 
Lower ball joints come in 2 flavors: 9" drum, and everything else. All 10" drum and disk lower ball joints were the same 63-76. Just order a set for a 73 Duster with disks and you'll be set.
 
Yeah I am going from the 9" drums to the disc brakes.
As for the back I am putting a later model Dart 8 1/4 rear end.
 
Thanks for the info guys! :)

Also another question:

Since I am changing to to disc brakes. I want to change to a dual reservoir master cylinder. I have all the brake lines off a later model Valiant which has really good lines (New Mexico car).
So would I get a master cylinder from a later model a-body?
Anything else that I need for the master cylinder swap?
 
BTW here are the brake lines that I took off the car.
You can see the distribution block on it.
You all think it should work ok for the disc brakes?

20121102_113930.jpg
 
Yup, even fits into the clips on the firewall pretty well. You can use a later master cylinder from a disk brake car. If the lines came off a power brake car and you are staying manual, the lines from the m/c to distribution block will be a little long. You can add a "turn" to the service loops to compensate.
 
C130 Chief said:
Lower ball joints come in 2 flavors: 9" drum, and everything else. All 10" drum and disk lower ball joints were the same 63-76.
Click to expand...
Doesn't affect you since your car was 9" drums, but I found that ball joints varied between 10" drums and 73+ disk brakes. I bought the later ones since much cheaper, but found they have both a larger bolt hole and different spacing than the 10" drum ones on my 65 Dart. I sold them and got the correct ones ($60 ea Autozone, and later scored new Moog China ones for $13 ea).

It looks like you have a "combination valve", which has both a proportioning valve for the rears and an imbalance warning switch. You would have to install a dash light to use the switch, and need to center it correctly. I wouldn't bother since I bet most are frozen up anyway in most cars. The pedal went to the floor once in my 69 Dart and I never saw a warning light.
 
BillGrissom said:
Doesn't affect you since your car was 9" drums, but I found that ball joints varied between 10" drums and 73+ disk brakes. I bought the later ones since much cheaper, but found they have both a larger bolt hole and different spacing than the 10" drum ones on my 65 Dart. I sold them and got the correct ones ($60 ea Autozone, and later scored new Moog China ones for $13 ea).

It looks like you have a "combination valve", which has both a proportioning valve for the rears and an imbalance warning switch. You would have to install a dash light to use the switch, and need to center it correctly. I wouldn't bother since I bet most are frozen up anyway in most cars. The pedal went to the floor once in my 69 Dart and I never saw a warning light.
Click to expand...

I read what your saying but I am a bit confused.
Do I just stay with the 9" drum lower ball joints cause the later model ones are larger and have different spacing?
 
porksoda said:
I read what your saying but I am a bit confused.
Do I just stay with the 9" drum lower ball joints cause the later model ones are larger and have different spacing?
Click to expand...

No, you need the 73+ disk ball joints because those are the only ones that will match the 73+ disk spindles you will be installing. The stud on the ball joint should fit your LCA because the LCA's didn't vary between 66 & 73+ that I know of, other than sway bar brackets were in a different place. Even if you have a sway bar, that wouldn't matter since you would keep it and your LCA.

Finally, the caveat. I did read that the only difference in the ball joints was that 73+ had thicker bolts between ball joint and spindle. That is why I bought 73+, thinking I could just add spacer collars for my 65 bolts (cheap bastard). However, I found the bolts were also farther apart. At least that was my measurement, but perhaps someone else has other info or experience. I have read people say that you could drill the holes in your 66 ball joint bigger, but don't know if they actually did so. Anyway, 73+ ball joints are the cheapest ones and most people would take the opportunity to install new ones.
 
Oh ok thanks for the info!

Also I found some good info while doing some searching:

dodgedartgt said:
Dimensionally, the '72/down and '73/up LCA's are the same. There is a difference in how the steering stop is designed, between the LCA and knuckle. You can use either arm you want, but best to keep same generation of arm with the knuckle you are using. The front track width was increased 1-1/2" in '67, but the LCA's remained the same. All the increase was between the LCA pivot bolts.
As an example, if your early A (up to '72 is a sway bar car) then keep your existing lower arms because of the sway bar tab location. If it is not sway bar equipped, then swap LCA's with the big bolt discs, knuckle and UCA. The '73/up LCA's have the tabs mounted in a different position.
Hope it helps,
Mike Bynum
Click to expand...
 
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