Early A TTI and oil pan issues

[djwhog]

Well for those in waiting or thinking about it here is some input on a 64 Dart.

OK I stuffed the 416 in the 64 Dart today, well tried too. I left the tosion bar out and the steering shaft and pitman arm when I rebuilt the front end. So I lowered the engine in, then slid the header on the driver side studs and and lowered it all into place and started to snug the headers. The passengerar side has to come in frmo the bottom unless I can get it on when it is up in the air on the cherry picker. I did not test this side today. Well I noticed they were a little to close the inner fender. The problem was my oil pan hits the K-Frame.

OK, in a 63-64 A the frame is more rounded and the passenger side protruds out more. So I marked it, pulled the motor back out and then stuffed it back in. Did the process 4 times because I wanted to only cut as little as possible for clearance. I think I will weld a plate to the bottom of the K frame when done for more strength.

I did not go with a milodon pan or moroso becasue one was way too wide, and the other was to close to the ground. The low profile pan wont work by milodon on a stroker, hit the mains in the rear. So I went with a Kevco 6 qt pan. Also running remote oil cooler and remote filter so that puts me up to about 7.5 qts oil. And this will aslso get the filter away from oil spilling on the headers during changes. The pan is nice, has scappers and gates in it. The linkage and all other areas are fine for those that are 65 and up, and I think that there are no issues at all. Only these earliest A bobies hit. Crap!

Well The other issue is that the brake lines and junction block are too close for comfort and heat etc for my liking. So after I pulled everything out I cut the line from the pass side to the block and will make a new mount and relocate it away from the exhaust with longer lines. Then tie in the rear line, proportioing adjustable vavle etc.

Should have it back in this weekend and then will take some pics.

I did decide to not install with the trans with the engine becasue these headers are very tuff on the early A's and I need to then stuff the T bar back in. Once I get the suspension etc in I want to get the car in the garage soon ... winter is almost here in WY. Was 31 today at 7 am.

But the other issue was I have to have the trans in to support the engine, so I will just stuff the case and tailshaft in with the rear mount until I can wheel the car in the shop and then block support the rear of the engine. It is nice only lifting a 40 lb trans on your back!!!

It really does look awesome in the car with the headers. I will get some pics this weekend and post here.

My Conclusion is that it is about as easy to pull the engine and everything else TTI states to do then not pull the engine. I can not even imagine getting these in with the engine in on the drivers side. Maybe on a 65-66 it is easier?

PS I run a 727 always have and everything in this car is a royal pain. Takes a lot of time and beer to stay calm and motivated.

 

[djwhog]

OK this Dart has always been very tight to work on with the 727 in it. The large starter was a nightmare! And I used to have fenderwell headers etc.

Anyway after about 5-6 times mocking the engine in and out I got the frame clearance I needed for the oil pan. I also without any help slid on the passenger side header then lowered it a little bit to just the point that I could get the drivers side on. Then worked it down onto the mounts. Make sure you pull the head studs for the exhaust too on the passenger side. They will hang you up, not enough room to slide over the studs.

Before I forget, make sure you have what is called the 90 degree hemi fitting for the pressure hose on the PS and install the hose 1st and tighten it. My car came with the 90 fitting from the factory.

I had to move the brake line junction block. In fact for now it is off completely and the lines to the front brakes are that wrap under the frame rails to the brake hoses are much to close to the headers. I am going to make new brake lines and re-route them away from the heat.

I also used to have the cast iron 90 oil adapter, but I wanted better flow and remote filter(s) and an oil cooler maybe? So I got a Canton billet piece. Well it is a little thicker than the iron 90 so I have to do a little tweak job to the headers to get some clearance. Not much, maybe just 1/3" or so. I no they say you have to cut or grind he bolt on the iron adapter.

Anyway once all was in place I put the new Torsion bars in. Then I put together an empty 727 case and tail shaft to bolt to the engine and support everything in place so I could lower the car and put it back in the shop for the winter. Well I can tell you I had to turn the 727 sideways to clear the headers! OUCH.... It is going to be a pain with an assembled trans and convertor.

Everything else is going OK, just takes a a lot is tweaking, mods etc. and a lot of time! I think if I was putting these in a running car I would pull the engine and put them both in from up top. It was a long day. You not only have to put the engine in, but then the exhaust and all your suspension back too.

I worked on some of the misc stuff today torque strap etc. and I think I may loosen the passenger side headers to the heads, maybe that will give some trans room?

Next on the list is to finish the trans get it and the mini starter in place, make new brake lines. Then I will install the TTI 3" exhaust system with H pipe.

After that it is onto the radiatior, heater core, and igntion system. Not sure on the radiator yet, and I am going MSD maybe just an AL6 and the billet distributor, but they have a new series 6 out that is suppose to be a little more advanced.

Here are a few pics fro the top side. I have the intake just sitting with the valve covers for the pics.

 

[daves66valiant]

I did mine this weekend too except I have a tremec 5-speed that gave me tons of trouble in getting the motor to sit in the stock position. I finally got it in today. The center link and tie rod still hit on the passenger side. I had to shim the motor and the transmission to clear the headers. My install was different since I lifted the engine over the body with the headers and everything attached. I got a few scratches on mine and decided the best way was to remove the passenger side header and oil filter adapter. Hope it doesn't hurt them too bad. Wonder if it can be coated again. Good luck getting the rest of it together. They are beautiful to look at huh

Dave