WSUTARD
Well-Known Member
The noise remained at #3 even though I moved the rockers.Eric, Using the stethoscope, did the noise move to #1 with the rocker or remain at the #3 exhaust valve.
The noise remained at #3 even though I moved the rockers.Eric, Using the stethoscope, did the noise move to #1 with the rocker or remain at the #3 exhaust valve.
No idea on the heads. I will cross that bridge when I get there I guess.do you know what type of guide you have? if it is really thin-wall, it's called a guide liner. If it is like 3/32" thick or so wall thickness it is a replacement guide. They can be iron or bronze. Have you felt around the spring retainer and spring seat, while the engine is running? Perhaps, if it comes to that you can remove the keepers, retainer, v. spring, v. stem seal and look for any anomalies. But you have to be able to keep the valve from dropping in the cylinder. It can be done, but you have to be careful.
I'm pretty sure you can buy them individually from Mopar. Probably Sealed Power, too. Call up J & J Auto Parts on 147th and 15th NE, they should be able to take care of that.Anyone know if I can buy individual lifters? I'm not finding anything with my searches.
I did swap the rockers between #3 and #1. The sound didnt move.I am not sure why you would think the guide was a problem if there is such gap between the rocker and valve tip. Have you swapped any rockers around? If you are buying a new lifter or 2, then buy a couple of new rockers.
Have you talked to the cam provider and asked for 2 more lifters? Crane sent us 3 new ones, not problemo, when we found 3 of the new 16 were too tight in the lifter bores.Im going to grab two of these. Sealed Power HT2011 - Valve Lifters | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Put them in #3, do a break in and then check for the tick.
I saw that but it is special order. I haven't connected with Comp yet but for $12 my impatience tells me to get these two local and give it a go today. I don't think it is a lifter issue but it would be dumb not to try, just in case. Unless there is a large chance I will do damage to the cam on the break in cycle!?!There is also an HT2001R, which is an anti-pump-up version of the same lifter. Not sure which you have... probably the non-R version based on pix of ones with the wire clips. I don't know if the piston's cup height is exactly the same between the 2.
Piston moved smoothly. I even felt it when I put it back in the engine and pushed on the rocker. Moved fine. When I first started it after replacing it had the tick, I decided to run it and let the lifters fill up with oil. The tick subsided a little to the point where I thought it was fixed. Drove it around the block and the tick was back.BTW, when you took the #3 ex lifter apart, did the piston move smoothly up and down in the body? Just trying to think if it could jam in the 'down' position.
OK, I will find some break in additive. I already have Rislone added to the current oil. Will that harm the additive I put in for the break in?I sure would.....good time to cut open the filter too. Also, put moly cam lube on the 2 new lifters. Do everything as if it were a brand new.
OK on the tick. What oil weight are you using? Lighter weights tend to cause more lifter ticks, in my experience at least. It could be oil heating up and thinning out, or just expansion of the parts as the engine warms up.
I didnt catch this in time. Already installed and did the break in.BTW, if you get the chance and have any of the original lifters, accurately measure the cup height on the new ones to the old ones to see if there is any difference. Just another long shot .....
hooray!Well, for fear of jinxing myself I didn't say this yesterday. Today I can confirm that the tick is gone. Replacing the lifters on #3 did the trick.