Eddy 1405 tuning advice

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Holley owners would kill for spark plugs like that!!

Your 270s cam is a variable duration cam, that can have lash from 0.015" to 0.030", & depending on where the lash is set, the adv duration will vary +/- 10* from 260 to 280*.

- Your vac seems low.
- Jet size has nothing to do with engine size. A big engine might use a smaller jet with the same carb that was on a smaller engine.
- Stalling; check that float level is 7/16".
- both rich & lean mixtures can cause surging.
- backfiring on decel is most likely valves too tight [ lash ]...or lobes/lifters wiping/wiped.
- first thing you need to do is get the idle timing correct. Re-adjust valves FIRST. Set idle to about 700 rpm & adjust mixture screws for reasonable idle quality [ not critical ]. Engine idling, in gear, loosen dist & turn dist slowly, starting from about 12* BTDC [ not critical ]. When highest rpm is reached, stop. Check timing. I am betting it will be between 20 -30*. Whatever it is, this is what THIS engine combination wants. Anything outside of this will result in LESS than optimal idle quality & tip in response.
- to get the desired timing, use an adjustable VA unit connected to manifold vacuum. you may have to make a stop for the VA unit. Eg: best idle was with 28*. 15* initial, make a stop so that the VA unit adds 13*. This where the carb adjustment starts: with idle timing, see the link.
I suggest you try this & report back.

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Thanks, valves were set at approx .015-.018", I'm at work now so I will chk notes later. Prior to that the valves were in .022" range based on Comp recommendations. That's why(imo) it felt and was sluggish.
The VA is adjustable, I went thru this not along ago with a distributor problem I had.
What's the scoop on the spark plug?
I'll do some digging once I get home.
Holley owners would kill for spark plugs like that!!

Your 270s cam is a variable duration cam, that can have lash from 0.015" to 0.030", & depending on where the lash is set, the adv duration will vary +/- 10* from 260 to 280*.

- Your vac seems low.
- Jet size has nothing to do with engine size. A big engine might use a smaller jet with the same carb that was on a smaller engine.
- Stalling; check that float level is 7/16".
- both rich & lean mixtures can cause surging.
- backfiring on decel is most likely valves too tight [ lash ]...or lobes/lifters wiping/wiped.
- first thing you need to do is get the idle timing correct. Re-adjust valves FIRST. Set idle to about 700 rpm & adjust mixture screws for reasonable idle quality [ not critical ]. Engine idling, in gear, loosen dist & turn dist slowly, starting from about 12* BTDC [ not critical ]. When highest rpm is reached, stop. Check timing. I am betting it will be between 20 -30*. Whatever it is, this is what THIS engine combination wants. Anything outside of this will result in LESS than optimal idle quality & tip in response.
- to get the desired timing, use an adjustable VA unit connected to manifold vacuum. you may have to make a stop for the VA unit. Eg: best idle was with 28*. 15* initial, make a stop so that the VA unit adds 13*. This where the carb adjustment starts: with idle timing, see the link.
I suggest you try this & report back.

View attachment 1716129440
 
The scoop on the plugs is......they are not black!!

With the tighter lash, I would expect it to feel sluggish because you are increasing duration.
 
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Going by that pic your ignition is weak. The centre electrode should be clean and not have carbon build up on it like the rest of the plug if the ignition is strong enough.
 
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If you look at the bottom plug you will notice it has light brown/tan build up on the plug and porcelain except on the center electrode surface where the current crosses to the ground strap. Your plugs look to be clean only on the outer edge of the center electrode where the current is getting across.
 
Here's another one.

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Look at the plug on the top and notice the mixture is very rich but the surface of the center electrode is clean.
 
So, spent some time on it, I could only get my hands on and installed 1 set of rods #1448(0.068×0.052).
Reset idle and IMS.
IMS PS, 2 turns out, DS 1 1/2 turns out
IDLE RPM 750, 13" VAC
IDLE IN GEAR RPM 675, 10 1/2" VAC
TIMING , IDLE 16*
RPM 1000, 18*
2000, 25*
2500, 28*
3200, 30*
4000, 35*, ALL IN.
No chance for test drive, rained most of the day...
 
So, spent some time on it, I could only get my hands on and installed 1 set of rods #1448(0.068×0.052).
Reset idle and IMS.
IMS PS, 2 turns out, DS 1 1/2 turns out
IDLE RPM 750, 13" VAC
IDLE IN GEAR RPM 675, 10 1/2" VAC
TIMING , IDLE 16*
RPM 1000, 18*
2000, 25*
2500, 28*
3200, 30*
4000, 35*, ALL IN.
No chance for test drive, rained most of the day...
Looks like you're getting close, heading in the right direction.
less rpm and vacuum drop in gear.
 
The rich step is the same on that but you did fatten it up on the lean step. Can you tell if it's running better?
 
Got a chance for a test drive. It's way better, but still get bog/stumble/backfire/surge. I left vac gauge hooked up for drive, so I'll list my readings.
Also it's down on power compared to prev rods. Could spin wheels with ease on previous rods.

Idle in park 750/13"
Idle in gear 675/10 1/2"
40 mph/2000rpm/13" vac
50/2500/13"
55/2600/11"
60/3000/14"
All above readings were in cruise (not accelerating)

Stumble/backfire at 55mph
Surging at 38mph cruising
Bog/surge on accel going 60 mph.
As I mentioned, it is way better, not stalling and surging has lessened, but down on bottom end(I think, lack of wheel spin) I didnt touch the timing either.
The 1448 I installed were 1 stage leaner in power mode and 1 stage richer in cruise.
Looks like 1446 on order, compared to the 48's they are 0.010 smaller on the needle end.
Suggestions?
Thanks
 
Still lean on the lean step if it surges at cruise. At cruise is highest vacuum reading and the rod is pulled down onto the thickest part of the rod. That's the lean step. Needs a smaller (richer) rod yet there. How is it when you stand on it?
 
Thanks, bog/stumble when I stand on it. Not all the time, but may as well be lol
Still lean on the lean step if it surges at cruise. At cruise is highest vacuum reading and the rod is pulled down onto the thickest part of the rod. That's the lean step. Needs a smaller (richer) rod yet there. How is it when you stand on it?
 
Thanks, bog/stumble when I stand on it. Not all the time, but may as well be lol
Can you tell if the bog is on the primaries or the secondaries? Get a feel for when it hits the sceondaries and stab the primaries HARD without opening the secondaries and that will tell you. But....it might also be on the secondaries as well, so there may be two different bogs.
 
To be honest Rob, I couldnt say and i never got any vac readings when issues arose. I got speed but no vac.
Weird i ran this carb last year "fine".
Also "losing" power with rod change?
As i mentioned i didnt touch timing at all. It's at 16* initial
I'll try stabbing at the primaries tomorrow and report back.
Can you tell if the bog is on the primaries or the secondaries? Get a feel for when it hits the sceondaries and stab the primaries HARD without opening the secondaries and that will tell you. But....it might also be on the secondaries as well, so there may be two different bogs.
 
Something radically wrong. if you can idle at 675 rpm, you should have more vac than 10.5"; similarly 750 rpm in Park would expect more than 13". Maybe faulty vac gauge?
Surging @ 38 mph could well be on the idle cct, NOT the main cct. Back out the idle mixture screws a full turn & re-test. If better or fixed, the idle tubes in the pri boosters need enlarging.
Unless you find the optimum idle timing that I outlined [ read the link ], then you are just p*ssing in the wind....& so are the rest of us that are trying to help you.
You are quoting pages from the Edel manual. Did you read the advice about using as much idle timing as possible, & using vac connected to man vacuum as a method of doing it?
 
Ok, so im going to hit the damned reset button here and set valve lash again and go from there, then set timing, then carb. Fn thing was on this engine last year....frustrated with myself here :BangHead:
Anyone have valve lash suggestions? FSM for 273 states 0.013" intake and 0.021" ex. Comp cams(270S) recommends 0.022 on both.
Pic of specs from FSM.

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I'd like to see the initial timing at about 18 degs.
Disconnect the secondary until the primary is dialed in.
 
Lash set at 0.018 intake and 0.022 ex.
Peeled carb off,reset float drop and level, drop was off a decent amount... :BangHead:
Confirmed all jets are stock, .095 rear and .100 main.
All else carb wise "looks" ok???
Pics of transfer slots from underneath.
Question, when I hear slots should be "squarish" is that when viewed from under or above??
(difficult) when installed.
Another question, while carb is off...I read/watched somewhere the the measurement of primary throttle blades to its bore SHOULD be approx 0.500" just as the 2ndary blades are starting to open. Is this correct? This one is approx 0.300". Linkage connecting the 2 shafts is what gets adjusted apparently?
Pics...drivers side is on left in pics.
Thanks
Steve

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So test drive sucked lol. Low speed cruise, surging. WOT seemed ok, no surging there. Building up to wot there were stumbles/surges.
Stalled once.
Backfired quite a bit
Only real difference was timing set to 12*, increased idle screw 1/4 turn to compensate for rpm drop. IMS screws out 1/2 turn each(Ds 17/8, Ps 2 turns).
Idle in park 750, vac 13"
Idle in gear 650 vac 10 1/2"
Timing 12*
Lash set to 0.018" int and 0.022" ex.
 
I thought I would tighten it up a bit to see if it made a difference and initially it seemed to add bottom end, but there were still surging/backfiring, so I put ex back to spec and intake is still a little tight.
Any reason you're not running Comp's suggested valve lash?
 
The valve lash isn't the root of your running problems. The carburetor is still too lean.
 
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