Eddy 1407

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7dart0 said:
I just cleaned the carb out set floats to manufacture specs. New filter, new pressure regulator, new pressure gauge and she still won't idle. What gives?

I put it in gear in the rpms drop significantly it it almost dies.
Then while I do get it idling in park and things start to get hot my pressure drops to zero. Possibly vapor lock?

Should I just buy a new carburetor?
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does yours die out when coming to stop?
 
What amount of fuel pressure do you have? There are a lot of bad fuel pumps out there if you are still running the mechanical pump. Airtex pumps are not worth the trouble. Too much slack in the arm, noisy and barely make pressure if the valves aren't warped or stuck.
 
My car does die coming to a stop. luckily i drive with two feet anyway. I did have like 8 psi. but i have a regulator on it now at 5 psi. its a carter strip pump.

I wasn't able to mess with it yesterday hopefully today.
 
7dart0 said:
My car does die coming to a stop. luckily i drive with two feet anyway. I did have like 8 psi. but i have a regulator on it now at 5 psi. its a carter strip pump.

I wasn't able to mess with it yesterday hopefully today.
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Me and you have the SAME problem with the SAME carb...... lol
 
i have a holley blue.... so you are using mechanical and im using electric.... so i think this narrows down to carb.... i run no regulator....someones gonna ***** slap me for not running one... but this is a great side by side comparison with same symptoms diff set ups
 
yes im running mechanical with a regulator at 5- 5.5 psi. per edelbrock recommendation.
 
she just wont idle under 1000-1100 rpm. timing is good. rpm's still dropping to about 500 in gear. i have the lightest step up springs in there and the passenger side spring is still bouncing in there.

i did notice that the carb had a date stamped into it from 1994 when i rebuilt it.
 
7dart0 said:
she just wont idle under 1000-1100 rpm. timing is good. rpm's still dropping to about 500 in gear. i have the lightest step up springs in there and the passenger side spring is still bouncing in there.

i did notice that the carb had a date stamped into it from 1994 when i rebuilt it.
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With that much of an rpm drop, it sounds more like a problem with the vacuum advance plugged into full manifold vacuum instead of timed vacuum. Have you tried to disconnect the vacuum advance and run it that way? You keep saying the timing is good, but no actual numbers.
 
I've experienced similar issues when plugged into the wrong port...produced a 400 rpm drop when going from park or neutral to any directional gear, accompanied by a healthy thump in the driveline...when I just disconnected the vacuum advanced the drop was closer to about 100 or so and much less drama when going into gear...with a 600 cfm Edelbrock on a stock 5.2 magnum.
 
its at 15* with vacuum ports blocked and about 32 in at 2500 rpm with no increase above that.
 
I'll have to check when i get home. i'm at work right now. I waited to give numbers on timing because i wanted to give you accurate numbers.

I'm really at my whits end with this carb.

Also I am plugged into the passenger side port on carb for my vacuum advance which should be the ported side.
 
It almost seems something else is going on.... I don't think it's related to a Eddy carb, but rather it's your specific carb that is messed up, or it's not related to the carb at all. If you have a friend that would borrow you their carb to try, or try your carb on their car, you could eliminate things in a hurry.
 
7dart0 said:
I guess it might be time to scrap the carb. maybe a Holley?
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I mean no disrespect by this, but its guys like you who give these carbs a bad reputation.
Ive seen this time in an time out. You barely know how to time a motor, and its the carbs fault ?
You are throwing jets, rods,springs at this thing without any idea why ? Eddys are the easiest carbs to tune.
If you think you are going to just slap a holley on and magically haul balls down the street, your fooling yourself.

Time for you to read and learn about carbs, timming, vacuum leaks, valve adjustment,compression, ect.

Having said that, I would start by putting the Eddy back to the way it came from the factory.
Stock jets, springs, rods. This will be the best starting point.

Kind of sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Use a new base gasket for the carb so there is no vacuum leak between the carb and manifold. Eventually you will want to use a phenolic type spacer.

Take the vacuum advance out of the equasition. You could have a blown vacuum pod, and not even realize it.
Cap both ports on the carb, and tune it without the vacuum advance. Some people run their cars without vacuum advance, just leave it unplugged for now. But make sure you plug the 2 ports on the carb with Good, new caps.

Again.....Read and learn.
In fact, bounce on over to YouTube. There are some great tunning Edelbrock videos over there.
 
tarvin890 said:
i have a holley blue.... so you are using mechanical and im using electric.... so i think this narrows down to carb.... i run no regulator....someones gonna ***** slap me for not running one... but this is a great side by side comparison with same symptoms diff set ups
Click to expand...

So you run a holley blue pump, and no regulator with an Eddy carb ?
And your car isnt running right ?
Geeze, I wonder why ?

Time to read up.

And while your at it, start your own thread. This will make it easier for everyone involved.
 
To echo Johnny Dart, it's going to take a lot of reading to fully understand everything. If you've not tuned a carb in the past, I highly recommend a wideband oxygen sensor. They can really help you figure out which side of rich and lean you really are on, aren't too expensive, and are fairly easy to install.

The statement that rods and jets have zero effect at idle is bull. Where do you think the fuel comes from? It's only a minor effect, but when I dropped from .100 jets to .092 my idle AFR jumped to 16 from 13.5. Changing from .070 (cruise step)rods (in the .092 jets) to .065 dropped my idle AFR from 13.5 (after readjusting) to 11.5.

Also, you may want to check the total number of turns-in you have on your curb idle. If you need to crack it open very far to control the idle, the transition slot will be over exposed and you'll never get the low end of the carb to function well. Easy check is to tighten your mix screws all the way (lightly seated, don't crank down on them) and if the engine is still running, then your transition slot is overly exposed. More timing can help raise the idle (and if it does, the engine probably wants more) and help you close the butterflies a bit to get the transition slot to function as designed.

I got close to dialing in my whole setup, but it was still fighting me a bit, so I decided to try adding more timing and everything improved significantly! So as all the experienced folks say: TIMING FIRST, CARB SECOND.

Verify that TDC really points at zero and work from there. As others mention frequently, it's not uncommon for a balancer ring to shift on the outside diameter. Once you know where your true zero is, it will be much easier. Don't be afraid to experiment with the timing but do realize that you might have to limit your total timing if the initial is raised much. I'd work on your initial timing, raising and lower, until your in-gear drop comes closer to ~200 rpm, and not 500+. Keep your curb idle around 900~1000 until all is well, then you can work it lower if possible.

If you simply swap the carb, it will probably just mask the symptoms but the root cause will remain. Your engine won't perform to it's full potential and worst case would be on the rich side of things and cause cumulative damage as the cylinders are washed down or carbon fouls your rings and plugs and valves.
 
Johnny Dart said:
So you run a holley blue pump, and no regulator with an Eddy carb ?
And your car isnt running right ?
Geeze, I wonder why ?

Time to read up.

And while your at it, start your own thread. This will make it easier for everyone involved.
Click to expand...

I was using this thread to parallel and rule things out....he said he thought a spacer would help[, i have the spacer he was talking about using, VERY helpfull to people and him and me too... to see that a change like that will not help his situation, ruled that out.... he could use one BUT it will not cure his problem..... ALSO it is funny you say to start my own thread.... WELLif I were to do that ... i would have been told to go to this thread.....if you cant see the value of two engines/cars with the SAME idle issue side by side with varying options to help rule things out... you are misguided...
 
Johnny Dart said:
So you run a holley blue pump, and no regulator with an Eddy carb ?
And your car isnt running right ?
Geeze, I wonder why ?

Time to read up.

And while your at it, start your own thread. This will make it easier for everyone involved.
Click to expand...

ps mine ran fine w/o regulator, until i changed something in the fuel system... it ran perfect before... so keep your regulator shaming to yourself.
 
I'm not trying to piss anyone off or throw the edelbrock carbs under the bus. In fact i had a 750 edelbrock on my 440 and the thing ran great.

I just think this carb might have had it. I bought it used. It sat a while I tried rebuilding it and the rebuild hasn't worked.

I did put a 4 hole phenolic spacer under the carb with all new gaskets.

I also sprayed carb cleaner around the intake gaskets and carb gaskets to check for vacuum leaks and came up with none.
 
tarvin890 said:
I was using this thread to parallel and rule things out....he said he thought a spacer would help[, i have the spacer he was talking about using, VERY helpfull to people and him and me too... to see that a change like that will not help his situation, ruled that out.... he could use one BUT it will not cure his problem..... ALSO it is funny you say to start my own thread.... WELLif I were to do that ... i would have been told to go to this thread.....if you cant see the value of two engines/cars with the SAME idle issue side by side with varying options to help rule things out... you are misguided...
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You can parallel all you want, but there is nothing parallel about your cars.
You are running a Holley blue pump with no regulator ! That pump is pre set at 14psi and requires a regulator !!! Have you lost your mind ? Do you have any idea of what an Edelbrock requires for fuel pressure ? And you wonder why your Eddy runs like crap ? Whos misguided ?

You are doing nothing but being a distraction, and mudding the waters. Its called thread jumping.
Start your own thread.
 
7dart0 said:
I'm not trying to piss anyone off or throw the edelbrock carbs under the bus. In fact i had a 750 edelbrock on my 440 and the thing ran great.

I just think this carb might have had it. I bought it used. It sat a while I tried rebuilding it and the rebuild hasn't worked.

I did put a 4 hole phenolic spacer under the carb with all new gaskets.

I also sprayed carb cleaner around the intake gaskets and carb gaskets to check for vacuum leaks and came up with none.
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The only thing that would piss someone off is not doing what we are advising you to do.
We are trying to help you. There are some experienced people here. Read what we are saying, and put it into use.
 
Isolate the intake tract. Disconnect and plug anything and everything that is attached and pulling vacuum, dist vacuum can, PCV, PB, everything. Sounds like it could be a huge vacuum leak. Check carb linkage for interference with intake manifold.

Don't know the cam, says it has 15*timing at idle but that may include some mechanical so when RPM drops, timing drops out and the issue escalates.

my 2 cents, start the car, set timing at 1K rpm to 25* and try turning the idle speed down. See how it responds and if you still have 25* as the idle drops.
 
Thanks crackedback. I will do that when I get home and let you know what happened.
 
Johnny Dart said:
You can parallel all you want, but there is nothing parallel about your cars.
You are running a Holley blue pump with no regulator ! That pump is pre set at 14psi and requires a regulator !!! Have you lost your mind ? Do you have any idea of what an Edelbrock requires for fuel pressure ? And you wonder why your Eddy runs like crap ? Whos misguided ?

You are doing nothing but being a distraction, and mudding the waters. Its called thread jumping.
Start your own thread.
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hey! PO had this set up...im working thru it peice by piece! let me go to the parts section and find me a regulator...sorry for the hijaking
 
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