Eddy head question

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dartkory

dartkory

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So where to begin. I did the 318 build out of the Engine Master magazine where the used Kieth Black pistons with closed chambered 360 heads and with a few other things made just over 400 hp. Well I was short on cash and had to use a set of higher cc open chamber 360 heads.
The motor has ran pretty good but I feel pretty certain im losing in the hp section due to my heads. Right now my compression ratio is around 8.5:1 to 9:1, each cylinder is right at 145 psi, what ever you guys think that is about. So my question is, will the Edelbrock RPM heads fit on a 318 that has been bored .030 over, and since they are 63 cc and closed chambered will it make my motor ping? I heard that aluminum heads can run a little higher on the compression without worry of pinging. And last, can I use my stock valve train? i hope so because these heads are gonna break the bank a little, I just really want to get them cause I feel it would really bring my motor to life, what do you guys think? thanks for any input! dartkory
 
yes..the eddy heads will fit.. and yes the aluminum heads will allow a slighly higher compression due to the faster transfer of heat...

I used the non adjustable rockers on my eddy heads.

My 73 duster with 360 had 10.6 compression with eddy heads and ran on 89 octane gas..
 
Thanks aarcuda! did you notice a noticeable gain over iron heads? my main concern is that are they really worth $1400!?! Im stuck right now between either getting the heads or new cragers. but I usually go towards power first. Thanks again.
 
well..the engine never had iron heads on it..and as far as what they are worth...that is your decision...


you might want to take a look at these also...they provide a very good upgrade...they are cast iron..

http://www.immengines.com/rhsheads.html
 
buy wheels.jmo

Is that the article with magnum heads swapped on?

There's no advantage there in flow, the chamber might be worth 5hp or ? depending.
As for aluminum heads, well the compression u have isnt very high to reap the benefits max comp for octane, but they do flow 240's over the fatory irons 'anywhere from 205-228cfm' at least thats what ive seen/tested. you could have some work done to the old heads and buy wheels for 1400+dollars, or ?
I dont see the motor pinging with only 9.1 comp + aluminum/closed chamber
Its your money.
 
Based on my experience, the $1400 gets you a set of heads on your bench. Be prepared to spend some more cash to get them correct to put on your motor.

By the way, check craigslist in your area, I picked mine up for 750 for the pair.
 
12valve said:
Based on my experience, the $1400 gets you a set of heads on your bench. Be prepared to spend some more cash to get them correct to put on your motor.

By the way, check craigslist in your area, I picked mine up for 750 for the pair.
Click to expand...


I took a set of out the box and drove with them for 5 yrs...
 
good question...im doing a 318 build myself(picking my block up monday from machine shop)
im no pro engine builder by far but after weeks debating what to do and what will work,what im doing is i bought flat top pistions with 4 valve reliefs speed pros similer to kb167..and had the block zero decked...i to am useing 63cc eddy heads i bought new for 1200 bucks craigslist ....i calculated compression and it puts at 10.5 to 1...no my debate is going with a voodoo solid cam or mp purple cam...im useing 273 adjustable rockers bolts right up..and a .028 in heads gasket i believe havent bought em yet but i think that what i entered in the compression calculater
 
Youngthrill said:
good question...im doing a 318 build myself(picking my block up monday from machine shop)
im no pro engine builder by far but after weeks debating what to do and what will work,what im doing is i bought flat top pistions with 4 valve reliefs speed pros similer to kb167..and had the block zero decked...i to am useing 63cc eddy heads i bought new for 1200 bucks craigslist ....i calculated compression and it puts at 10.5 to 1...no my debate is going with a voodoo solid cam or mp purple cam...im useing 273 adjustable rockers bolts right up..and a .028 in heads gasket i believe havent bought em yet but i think that what i entered in the compression calculater
Click to expand...

If you do the purple cams, do a solid..lol...in fact i say go solid with either.



The .528 works good, surprising good idle 'but noticeable' that will pull 8-12'' of vac installed from/@ 106*-110* and intake choice, still pulls into 7k good yet has a broad powerband and is adv @2800-6900rpm. Int closes at about 52* 'if i remember right', u'd get about 8.1 dynamic comp with it.

But this cam would be more up to date...
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1542&gid=317
 
Thanks for all the input! but does anyone know about how much hp I can expect from switching to the eddy 63 cc closed chambered heads from the 72 cc open chambered heads?
 
dartkory said:
Thanks for all the input! but does anyone know about how much hp I can expect from switching to the eddy 63 cc closed chambered heads from the 72 cc open chambered heads?
Click to expand...

Depending on what they had done to the 360 heads in the article, I would say that's a good benchmark to go by. If they had limited work done, then I would say about 25-45hp more using the aluminum head with same work done. If you use them out of the box, your looking at something pretty close to a set of worked over cast heads with the closed chambers. The increase in comp and the option to use the same fuel with increased comp in your case is worth doing alone in my book! I use Victor heads on my RB engine and would never think of using a factory cast iron head ever again! Hell just the weight savings is enough to convince me to do it again.. LOL!
You'll feel the differance in the seat of the pants after you put them on..:burnout:
 
couply of thingys

i'm not sure about your kb pistons, but they may be designed for zero-decking and if that is the case when you have the pistons at zero and your head gasket is .040 this is the ideal quench and you will be much more ping resistant just by shaving that littly bit off the block. what model are they?

also your cam selection can affect ping resistance. they put a lil bit more overlap on some and what that does is reduce your dynamic compression. the KB site has a dynamic compression calculator. http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php
i think (others chime in) if you keep your dynamic comp in the low 8's high 7's you will be golden.

last but not leasty. if you want to build a beast go with solid lifters / solid cam and adjustable rockers. if the rockers are too much for the budget hydraulic will work, but avoid rpms over 6300 or you can float the valves, pump up lifters etc.
 
p.s. for the love of all that is holy make sure you have a brand new oil pump. they cost about 50 bucks

i recommend a high volume oil pump. i'm not a fan of high pressure oil pumps i think a lot of times people with oil leak problems at the rear main seal are running high pressure pumps. high volume pumps work great however
 
dartkory said:
Thanks for all the input! but does anyone know about how much hp I can expect from switching to the eddy 63 cc closed chambered heads from the 72 cc open chambered heads?
Click to expand...

At the currant 8.5 comp u have, switching to a closed chamber might get u 5 hp more from the compression bump of a half a point, if you dialed the quench in good.. 'more comp by virtue' maybe another 8, so 12-15 hp. Now if you accessed the flow of the eddys buy lifting the valve into the .500's where the eddys start to flow better than factory iron...u could see a combined 25-30hp increase.

but what it comes down to is ...what do your factory iron heads flow in comparison to the eddy heads?
If they flow like 340 heads 220-228 cfm, and the eddys ootb flow 240@500, ur looking at a around 15cfm gain for 1400 bucks

In a nutshell, if you go eddy...you'll pick up 10hp from the comp alone and maybe another 15hp from the extra 5-10cfm throughout the low lift range. you could get more if you up the cam lift and get into the .500's.

Basically 1400 bucks for around a 30 hp bolt on, more if u up the cam, port the eddys.
or you could buy the wheels and with the money left over, pull the iron off for a couple bones worth of porting which should get you the same 240's cfm that the eddys flow and another 60-80 bucks to have the iron milled down to 65cc compression bump.

fwiw, high volume oil pumps are not necessary unless the motor is looooose and or modified/drilled oil galleys. see high volume is pumping/compressing harder, when u compress oil u are putting heat into it...the more you compress it, the more heat.....you dont need hotter oil thats viscosity breaks down faster...plus they eat up hp -harder to turn...so u will eat some of that newly acquired hp u paid for.

skip the high volume pump.
 
oil does not compress... like water does not compress. ran HV pumps for years and didnt have a problem thinning oil. and i ran the piss out of that 340. took it down at 35k miles and the bearings looked like the day i installed them, and the clearances didnt change. HV pumps were not designed for putting into loose engines lol.

aluminum heads cool better than iron, and they weigh about 50 pounds less. the eddy heads come with the bigger 2.02 valves. so unless your 360 heads are J heads, you get that benefit as well.
 
..describe your build and tune specs.
..the wrong cam,converter, gear or tuneing specs can really
make a car lazy on the bottom and be very dissapointing.
..the Edelbrock heads can really make your wallet lighter!
 
wow thanks so much for all the great input. to answer some questions, I installed a high volume oil pump when I rebuilt it. The pistons I used are the KB167's, and the heads I have right now have the 1.88 intake valves. Thanks again. Kory
 
moparlover said:
oil does not compress... like water does not compress. ran HV pumps for years and didnt have a problem thinning oil. and i ran the piss out of that 340. took it down at 35k miles and the bearings looked like the day i installed them, and the clearances didnt change. HV pumps were not designed for putting into loose engines lol.

aluminum heads cool better than iron, and they weigh about 50 pounds less. the eddy heads come with the bigger 2.02 valves. so unless your 360 heads are J heads, you get that benefit as well.
Click to expand...

i think that 1 wild used compress because even though your not sqeezing the oil closer to ether your still trying to compress it .oh ya smokey yunick used compress when he explained the exact same thing in his book

X2 everything 1 wild had to say. why add unnecessary heat to your oil and waste hp turning the pump. granted it aint much heat but it is a lot of power. and don't forget the oil is your engine coolant were coolant cant get to. i would rather move the car instead of to much oil. ill admit more oil is better then to little but the stock pump is capable of doing most oiling on most street uses.
 
If your pistons are at zero deck, and you use the closed chambered heads you will not only gain hp from the larger valves, you will also gain hp because you will have perfect quench if you use the felpro .045 head gasket. If your pistons are at true zero deck with the 63cc heads you should be over 10.50 to 1 compression. Did you verify zero deck or is the piston still in the hole? Most of the Time you have to deck the block to get a true zero deck. I think if you have everything setup right you should gain quite a bit of hp switching the heads.
 
Edelbrock heads chop off a lot of weight and the smaller chamber will help. Have a good shop go over the valve job, check the guide clearances, and do a little bowl blending and gasket matching, nothing radical. Also get the install height set on all the springs. If that is getting too pricey Indio Motor Machine sells the RHS heads fully prepped ready to bolt on and the Engine Quest heads are pretty good too both are closed chamber iron heads and cheaper then Edelbrock.

Are the cast iron heads on you car now ported?
 
thanks for all the great advice. and yes I had my blocked decked so its right at zero. but 340sfastback, do you know how much the Indio motor heads or the RHS heads are? because I had looked at the RHS heads and they were asking the same as the eddy heads unless I was looking at the wrong set.
 
The imm rhs heads go for around 1500'ish

$ound$ like you really want the eddy head$, nothing said will $way you...so in that ca$e....$pend the 1400+$hipping, then take them to a $hop and pay around 400 dollar$ for the corrective work and $pring $et up.... and then another 400 dollar$ 'optional' to have them bowl blended $o that they actually flow 250-260's cfm 'might a$ well make this worth while' and then buy a new cam that will lift the valve into the .550-.600 lift range where tho$ eddy$ flow good, otherwi$e you'll more than likely only net about 240cfm with the .500 or le$$ lift $treet cam$ offered/typically u$ed.

good luck.
 
so I just got my eddy rpm heads and had a few questions for the guys that have ran them on there set up.
I was going through the instructions for the install procedures and they say that I need to use adjustable valvetrain for any cam over stock. How true is this? my cam is not much over stock, I dont remember the exact lift but it is for sure under .500. I think it was around .484.
and can I use my stock head bolts other than the one long one they supply? or do I have to absolutely use there head bolts?
and last they say to retorque the head bolts after it cools which normally isn't a big problem but I have doug headers on my 66 dart and with this whole head swap, unbolting the headers and working around them will probably be the hardest thing. so did you guys all retorque yours or were they good to go?
Thanks for any help. -Kory
 
I ran a Hughes 230/237 @.050 with .515/535 lift cam with stock rockers.

HE3038AL INT .515" EXH .535"
 
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