Eddy head question

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awesome, thanks 70aarcuda, that takes care of one of questions. at least I can use my stamped rockers. so did you use your original head bolts or buy theirs? im pretty sure I know the answer for the retorque question. -Kory
 
I'm running Eddys heads (60779) but I have a full roller setup (cam, lifters, rockers). My cam is a little bigger at .535"/.550", and you can just use the stock 273 adjustable rocker arms. As far as head bolts, a set of arp studs for the rpm heads is what I use
 
did you guys retorque the heads after you let them warm up? and are the eddy heads the same as the cast heads in the way when you remove the header bolts at the ends coolant drains through em?
 
Anyone having issues with the ARP studs restricting oil flow?

The Edelbrock head flows oil thru the head bolt passage, as being the ARP studs aren't necked down in diameter (like a head bolt is), I use ARP head studs along with one ARP head bolt in the oil feed location. ARP tech line is aware of this restriction and advised me to use one head bolt in that location.

What do you guys think about this?

ARP head bolts dont restict oil due to the bolts reduced diameter.
 
dartkory said:
did you guys retorque the heads after you let them warm up? and are the eddy heads the same as the cast heads in the way when you remove the header bolts at the ends coolant drains through em?
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no coolant on the ends....and have never retorqued heads...eddy or cast iron.
 
70aarcuda, you have been a huge help. I was almost considering returning em cause it seems like so many people kinda have horror stories on them, and the added expense it started to sound like i was gonna have to spend, but I'm gonna go start putting them on tonight. Unfortunately I can't afford having a machine shop go through em so i am gonna just inspect them the best I can, and remove the springs to check to make sure the valve guides aren't to tight against the valve, and just take edelbrocks word on them being a true "bolt on and go" and hope I don't have any issues. Is that what you did? just take em out of the box and bolt em on? Thanks again for all the help. -Kory
 
well..the one set that was run on the street...came out of the box on to the engine...ran them for 5 yrs.
 
ok awesome. i just got my motor torn down, and got one head bolted on but will have to finish tomorrow. im looking forward to see how well they work but I have never been so nervous when it came to my engine. This would be an expensive mess up. lol
Thanks again. -Kory
 
so I have a couple questions. when I was getting ready to take off my iron heads, before I removed the rockers i was wiggling the push rods to see how much play there was and all but a few were pretty loose, not real loose but I could for sure wiggle em and wiggle the rockers back and fourth on the rocker arm. (the rockers and rocker arms are new so I know they aren't worn).
Once I got my eddy heads on and torqued I installed the rockers and tried the same thing with the push rods and rockers and there was no wiggling in them at all. is this a good thing or bad thing? i would think a good thing cause before I would hear a slight rattle, and I would imagine that was what it was.
My second question is; I had to jimmy my motor out enough to work around my dougs headers in order to get my eddy's on and now it will be way to hard to get it back in without a puller, so I am going to get one to put the motor in, but i dont have the intake installed so i was curious if the threads on the heads are strong enough to use to bolt the chains to in order to hoist it back in?
Thanks -Kory
 
You can put a bolt in the head and lift the engine just make sure the bolt is threaded into the head 3/4" to 1" not less than 1/2".

Adjustable rockers are needed to get the pre-load on the lifters set correctly. However, if your push rods are just the right length you don't need adjustable rockers. What you need to do is check the pre-load of each lifter by rotating engine and putting cam on the base circle. With the intake off and using "wire" feeler guages you can measure how far the lifter plunger is compressed. For most lifters to work correctly they need to be compressed .010" to .030" inch. If they are compressed too much the valves may not seal and it could cause the valve to lift too much contacting the piston although you prob won't have that prob cause it sounds like you have a pretty mild cam. Either way I would check that preload and if its too much or too little you will have to switch push rods or get adjustable rockers.

I run Felpro 1008 head gaskets which Edelbrock recommends and ARP head bolts and I did not retorque the head bolts. Probably should but have not got around to it and its been a few years....
 
I forgot that i purchased the arp head bolts when I originally rebuilt my motor, and i am using the 1008 felpro gaskets. on the head bolts you're just suppose to use a little oil on the threads right?
 
MiradaMegaCab said:
Anyone having issues with the ARP studs restricting oil flow?

The Edelbrock head flows oil thru the head bolt passage, as being the ARP studs aren't necked down in diameter (like a head bolt is), I use ARP head studs along with one ARP head bolt in the oil feed location. ARP tech line is aware of this restriction and advised me to use one head bolt in that location.

What do you guys think about this?

ARP head bolts dont restict oil due to the bolts reduced diameter.
Click to expand...

Im going on the record to say Its a very bad idea to mix studs and bolts together, especially on a SBM. You only have 4 bolts per cylinder to seal these things and thats just a blown head gasket waiting to happen.

The bolts/studs are fine, they dont restrict the oil. I have run studs and bolts on these upto 8000rpm without any rocker oiling issues at all. Plus if you really feel like it is restricted, use a small ball end carbide on a 4" shaft and go in a cut a small groove from one oil hole to another. But for Mopar Gods sake, dont mix studs and bolts.
 
I wudda went with the cragars. No worries about bolts or studs or compressing oil & heat, hi pressure low pressure, hi volume low volume. Just plain old bling bling! Keep 'em clean n shiney & just love 'em!:tard:
 
thats actually why it took me longer to get em than originally planned cause I got the cragars first.
 
just wanted to do a follow up and let you guys know that I got my car going yesterday and the heads are amazing!!! it is way smoother through the power band, I noticed a decent gain in torque, no more smoke out the exhaust at the top end, no more pinging what so ever, and best of all it never goes over 185 degrees and cools to 160 after being off for only about 10 minutes! Thanks everyone for your input! -Kory
 
dartkory said:
just wanted to do a follow up and let you guys know that I got my car going yesterday and the heads are amazing!!! it is way smoother through the power band, I noticed a decent gain in torque, no more smoke out the exhaust at the top end, no more pinging what so ever, and best of all it never goes over 185 degrees and cools to 160 after being off for only about 10 minutes! Thanks everyone for your input! -Kory
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Drop an Aluminum Radiator and a good water pump in there and watch what happens!:burnout:
 
i have an aluminum radiator but unfortunately I ordered it for use with a stock early style water pump, and the aluminum water pumps seem to all have the inlet on the passenger side rather than the driver side.
 
dartkory said:
i have an aluminum radiator but unfortunately I ordered it for use with a stock early style water pump, and the aluminum water pumps seem to all have the inlet on the passenger side rather than the driver side.
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You could always sell your current aluminum radiator and get the one for the passenger side one and an aluminum water pump once your current water pump takes a crap.
 
thats probably what i'll end up doing. but the water pump is only about 6 months old. I'll most likely tare it off at the beginning of summer.
 
dartkory said:
thats probably what i'll end up doing. but the water pump is only about 6 months old. I'll most likely tare it off at the beginning of summer.
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If you're going to do it, I'd do it now so you can have hurry up and put that stuff up for sale before the summer starts so others can buy and put in their cars. Just a thought.
 
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