Edelbrock Cylinder Head Quality

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IRISH RT said:
Yep I got some last year , some of the plug holes needed re- tapping and rocker shaft threads were rough also, did not check anything else so Im wondering why i keep bending pushrods and only on one bank yes they could be slightly shorter which I have custom ordered , would any of the above issues cause the pushrods to bend
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Maybe best for another thread....
- Springs used?
- Peak RPM's?
- Cam lift and type?
- Pushrod brand/model?
- Rocker ratio?
- Any checks for pushrods hitting guide holes on that side only?
 
Just wanted to say a "BIG THANK-YOU" to "ALL" of you that have taken the time and effort to contribute to this thread, really enjoyed your comments and very much appreciate your feedback..... Very Helpful....

:coffee2:
 
I have 2 sets of these about 10 years apart in age, both had guide problems, both sets had some tight ones, one set had 4 very tight ones and 2 very loose ones to the point it was smoking. I would have to say that given the born date of these two sets they are notorious for guide problems. My solution, sent them to Hughes and had them port them new guides, valves, resurface them and machine them for roller cam pushrod clearance and they have been awesome ever since. Now this is not something I would have thought I would have to do with a pricey set of new heads but that's what it took to make them work as advertised. Another issue that I found, not major but there is some core shift noticeable on the intake ports, easily rectified when porting but its there.
 
gold66cuda said:
Another issue that I found, not major but there is some core shift noticeable on the intake ports, easily rectified when porting but its there.
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Our set has core shift on both exhaust sides; just leaving it as is. Intakes are fine for that.
 
Any aftermarket head, from any manufacturer, for any manufacturer, should be taken to a reputable performance shop and gone through. That means the valve job gets redone because the guides are usually tight, the seats are not really round, and the valve grinding isn't the best, the deck surfaces might need surfacing (if you are running MLS head gaskets), and the right springs added for your cam because you can't go by lift alone... The supplied springs are not that good especially for a modern cam profile. Indys are no better. Stealths are no better. Anybody who spends the coin for a decent set of heads should spend the few more coins to get the maximum performance from them. Core shift is common in any cast product. It's faster and easier to just take care of it then send it back and *****. It's not like you're grinding aluminum.
 
twool said:
do not have heads. magnum or 308 casting which is better
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I have 308's sitting here and I went with the magnums. It is more work, pushrods, adjustable rockers, valve covers (rocker adjusters hit baffles I used late LA covers). My exhaust manifold on the drivers side needed 2 gaskets to seal. I think the magnums are more work but I like them. The pushrods I used are from a magnum motor, I picked up some Chevy 1.6 stainless adjustable roller rockers and edelbrock guide plates. The guy that built the (new) bare castings used 7/16ths screw in studs. The motor runs well, I'm still tuning it. Its a little lean on the primaries. The 308 heads would have been less work but the magnim heads are a better head in my opinion. I did start with brand new bare castings. Good luck, I hope this helps.
 
moper said:
Any aftermarket head, from any manufacturer, for any manufacturer, should be taken to a reputable performance shop and gone through. That means the valve job gets redone because the guides are usually tight, the seats are not really round, and the valve grinding isn't the best, the deck surfaces might need surfacing (if you are running MLS head gaskets), and the right springs added for your cam because you can't go by lift alone... The supplied springs are not that good especially for a modern cam profile. Indys are no better. Stealths are no better. Anybody who spends the coin for a decent set of heads should spend the few more coins to get the maximum performance from them. Core shift is common in any cast product. It's faster and easier to just take care of it then send it back and *****. It's not like you're grinding aluminum.
Click to expand...

^^Law. Once you embrace this, rocker geometry and cam degreeing you'll be performance and longevity ahead.
 
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