Edelbrock heads (cam selection)

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Aspen79

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I have edelbrock RPM head 60779, my question is will the springs on these heads work with comp cam 305AH-8 525/540
253/260 @.050.

The reason I chose this cam is because, of package Nine
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Flow numbers on this head
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Call Comp; but I don't think so.
Street or Race?
I put a Hughes 230*cam in my SBM and they called for different springs, which I dutifully installed.
If your power peaks at 6000, and you have an automatic, then you will need to rev to over 7000 to powerband well. That means you will need a lot of oiling mods to help the engine survive.
And 10.4Scr will not be nearly enough compression.In a 360,With an ICL of 106, the ICA will be about 81* and the DCR will fall to under 7.1 with cylinder pressure near 137 psi. This will require a very big TC to get you off the line, and big gears to keep you on the pipe. Are you aware of these parameters?
This would not be a good street pkg so Ima hoping you are going racing.
10.4 is a very good number to run with a 270*cam. With an ICA of 59* the Dcr comes in at 8.64 with cylinder pressure of 175. This will work very well with aluminum heads, 3.55s and 2400 to 2800 TC, very streetable,tickling 400 hp.This is not like pkg6. The cam in pkg6 has some of the fastest ramps I have ever seen, and for sure the Edeldrock springs won't work.The powerpeak with the pkg6 cam, IMO,is still to high for street and an automatic.

In my opinion with a 727, and on the street, the powerpeak should not exceed about 5400.This cam will want to be out-shifted from first,at around 6800, to come in at 4000, and that centers the powerband around 5400 .Second is better, being shifted at 6400, to come in at 4400, for a powerband again centered at 5400.Thus the outgoing power will be near to the incoming power and so the most average power will be put down.Bear in mind that 6800 in first gear with 3.55s is over 60 mph, and 6400 at the top of second is 100mph;so you have a 2-gear Quartermiler with 3.55s. And the guy with the most average power, is most likely to win.This engine will still need the oil-system mods to survive 6800 rpm shifts. And the valve springs will have to go with the cam.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Call Comp; but I don't think so.
Street or Race?
I put a Hughes 230*cam in my SBM and they called for different springs, which I dutifully installed.
If your power peaks at 6000, and you have an automatic, then you will need to rev to over 7000 to powerband well. That means you will need a lot of oiling mods to help the engine survive.
And 10.4Scr will not be nearly enough compression.In a 360,With an ICL of 104, the ICA will be about 77* and the DCR will fall to under 7.5 with cylinder pressure near 145 psi. This will require a very big TC to get you off the line, and big gears to keep you on the pipe. Are you aware of these parameters.
This would not be a good street pkg so Ima hoping you are going racing.
10.4 is a very good number to run with a 270*cam. With an ICA of 59* the Dcr comes in at 8.64 with cylinder pressure of 175. This will work very well with aluminum heads, 3.55s and 2400 to 2800 TC, very streetable,tickling 400 hp.This is not like pkg6. The cam in this pkg has some of the fastest ramps I have ever seen, and for sure the Edeldrock springs won't work.The powerpeak, IMO,is still to high for street and an automatic.
Click to expand...

Ok maybe I should try that then, right now I have package five-b. I just figure it might not be enough even with a 250 hp nitrous. The purpose of this car is to street race on the weekends. But there are some fast cars on the street at night lol
 
I know dick-all about NOs. But it seems a 6000rpm powerpeak would be a royal PITA when just tooling around. Ima thinking your dream would be better served with a stroker, and a street cam.
Hang around for a bit, there are guys here way smarter than me, when it comes to this sorta thing.
 
SO I'm gunna ask this.

You say street racing, first I ASSUME its legal. So tells us more, what kind of distance? Do you plan on driving the car other than on weekends and driving? What exactly will you be doing with the car.

I will say this, you can get that lift with MUCH better duration. AKA More power up top and down low. Look at solid rollers. Otherwise the cam you got there is going to be dead slow below 3k rpm. And probably won't really pick up till about 4K. Do you really want an engine with a "small" powerband like that? I wouldn't myself.

Solid roller. 1.6 Roller rockers. Good head work. And you'll make more power and torque and be able to use it. Remember, torque starts races, horsepower finishes them.
 
I don't get the "I assume it's legal street racing" or it better be track racing or any negative street racing comment since anybody that doesn't like wont do it and it's really none of there biz if someone else likes it or does it.

Get over it all ready! It's gonna happen no matter what you post or how bad you flex your internet muscles on beating up on someone who does street race.

GOOD GOD MAN!
 
Lustle said:
SO I'm gunna ask this.

You say street racing, first I ASSUME its legal. So tells us more, what kind of distance? Do you plan on driving the car other than on weekends and driving? What exactly will you be doing with the car.

I will say this, you can get that lift with MUCH better duration. AKA More power up top and down low. Look at solid rollers. Otherwise the cam you got there is going to be dead slow below 3k rpm. And probably won't really pick up till about 4K. Do you really want an engine with a "small" powerband like that? I wouldn't myself.

Solid roller. 1.6 Roller rockers. Good head work. And you'll make more power and torque and be able to use it. Remember, torque starts races, horsepower finishes them.
Click to expand...

Yes the car is only a weekend warrior, meaning I only drive it when it's time to play. The motor is together now but I feel I can do a lot better with the cam selection. I'm just trying to change the cam to get better power. The TC that's in it now is 2800 stall. I have not selected a rear gear yet. I plan on running 28X10.5 tire.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I don't get the "I assume it's legal street racing" or it better be track racing or any negative street racing comment since anybody that doesn't like wont do it and it's really none of there biz if someone else likes it or does it.

Get over it all ready! It's gonna happen no matter what you post or how bad you flex your internet muscles on beating up on someone who does street race.

GOOD GOD MAN!
Click to expand...

So you came onto this thread just to comment on one line of my post? I don't see how I "flexed my internet muscles" by just saying I assume it was street legal. I wasn't saying it in a negative way. And I didn't beat up on him. Don't be so dramatic. I said that because I hope it was/is. And that I don't take liability for a guy building a 500 horse engine, throwing a 250 shot of NOS at it, and then thinking he will run it on the street. Especially when I have no idea if he's ever run something like that before. I've driven 750-1000 horse cars/race cars before. Not a lot of people have. And trust me when I say it's a lot more than most guys can handle on the street. Guys who street race and wreck. Try to show off in their shitstangs and crash into a crowd. Guy's who peel out of a parking lot and sideswipe a car give ALL of us a bad name. And make it harder for us to enjoy our cars, are the reason people have a poor view of racing and car guys in general. I don't see how you can't see that.

I tell you what. It is my business what other people do on the street. You know why? Cause I'M ON IT WITH THEM. When you've had a friend get killed by this sorta ****. And other friends hit on their motorbike by guys who have no idea what they are doing. Maybe then your opinion will matter.

Oh and for the record. I do enjoy taking off hard at a light. Light to light dashes. Burning rubber. Donuts. Showing a chevy who's boss. And all that good stuff. But c'mon guys, be smart about it. That's all I'll say about that.

Aspen79 said:
Yes the car is only a weekend warrior, meaning I only drive it when it's time to play. The motor is together now but I feel I can do a lot better with the cam selection. I'm just trying to change the cam to get better power. The TC that's in it now is 2800 stall. I have not selected a rear gear yet. I plan on running 28X10.5 tire.
Click to expand...

Well the best thing you can do is make sure it all works together. Don't bother getting a huge cam, without head work. Don't bother making RPM at 6K+ rpm without the gear for it. ETC.

Your original question of whether or not those springs will work, edelbrock lists those springs as being good to .575 lift. So you'll be close. But I would seriously look at other cams. A solid roller will always make more power. You can get a cam with the same lift but in the 230-240 @50 area for duration. Keep your static compression at 11:1+ and dynamic at 8.5:1+ (assuming you have 91+ gas in your area). And it should make power no matter what. If you plan on running 250 of nitrous or more, go forged on all internals. Keep an eye on piston/valve clearance.

Have you run your current engine yet and find it lacking? Or are you just assuming it will be?
 
The torque converter wouldn't happen to be an off the shelf unit would it?

Pretty much have to decide the cam,then tire size, then gears. After that's done order a converter.
Heard a lot of good stuff about dynamic,ptc and had first had awesome experience with turbo action.

any miss match in cam,converter,tire size,gearing will end in a craptastic voyage with dismal 60fts.
 
Lustle said:
So you came onto this thread just to comment on one line of my post? I don't see how I "flexed my internet muscles" by just saying I assume it was street legal. I wasn't saying it in a negative way. And I didn't beat up on him. Don't be so dramatic. I said that because I hope it was/is. And that I don't take liability for a guy building a 500 horse engine, throwing a 250 shot of NOS at it, and then thinking he will run it on the street. Especially when I have no idea if he's ever run something like that before. I've driven 750-1000 horse cars/race cars before. Not a lot of people have. And trust me when I say it's a lot more than most guys can handle on the street. Guys who street race and wreck. Try to show off in their shitstangs and crash into a crowd. Guy's who peel out of a parking lot and sideswipe a car give ALL of us a bad name. And make it harder for us to enjoy our cars, are the reason people have a poor view of racing and car guys in general. I don't see how you can't see that.

I tell you what. It is my business what other people do on the street. You know why? Cause I'M ON IT WITH THEM. When you've had a friend get killed by this sorta ****. And other friends hit on their motorbike by guys who have no idea what they are doing. Maybe then your opinion will matter.

Oh and for the record. I do enjoy taking off hard at a light. Light to light dashes. Burning rubber. Donuts. Showing a chevy who's boss. And all that good stuff. But c'mon guys, be smart about it. That's all I'll say about that.



Well the best thing you can do is make sure it all works together. Don't bother getting a huge cam, without head work. Don't bother making RPM at 6K+ rpm without the gear for it. ETC.

Your original question of whether or not those springs will work, edelbrock lists those springs as being good to .575 lift. So you'll be close. But I would seriously look at other cams. A solid roller will always make more power. You can get a cam with the same lift but in the 230-240 @50 area for duration. Keep your static compression at 11:1+ and dynamic at 8.5:1+ (assuming you have 91+ gas in your area). And it should make power no matter what. If you plan on running 250 of nitrous or more, go forged on all internals. Keep an eye on piston/valve clearance.

Have you run your current engine yet and find it lacking? Or are you just assuming it will be?
Click to expand...

My current setup is forged and the valve to piston clearance is good. No I have not ran the car yet, just thinking it won't be enough, but maybe your right just run what I have and see what it will do and go from there. Thanks for the advice.
 
Aspen79 said:
My current setup is forged and the valve to piston clearance is good. No I have not ran the car yet, just thinking it won't be enough, but maybe your right just run what I have and see what it will do and go from there. Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

What kinda car is it going in? And pay attention to what Skep419 mentioned. Torque converter is extremely important for your build. Don't bother with off the shelf. I have a PTC unit special built to my specs and it was cheaper than an off the shelf B&M. As for gears, depending on how far you are racing will determine what kinda gears you want. The shorter the track, the higher (numerically) gears the better. Traction of course will be a problem the higher (numerically) your gearset is.
 
skep419 said:
The torque converter wouldn't happen to be an off the shelf unit would it?

Pretty much have to decide the cam,then tire size, then gears. After that's done order a converter.
Heard a lot of good stuff about dynamic,ptc and had first had awesome experience with turbo action.

any miss match in cam,converter,tire size,gearing will end in a craptastic voyage with dismal 60fts.
Click to expand...
The TC is a TCI unit, so yes off the shelf
 
image.jpeg
Lustle said:
What kinda car is it going in? And pay attention to what Skep419 mentioned. Torque converter is extremely important for your build. Don't bother with off the shelf. I have a PTC unit special built to my specs and it was cheaper than an off the shelf B&M. As for gears, depending on how far you are racing will determine what kinda gears you want. The shorter the track, the higher (numerically) gears the better. Traction of course will be a problem the higher (numerically) your gearset is.
Click to expand...

Dodge Aspen
 
Aspen79 said:
3300
Click to expand...

If you are making 430 horse. Assuming 17% power loss. Thats good for low 12's N/A. Or mid 10's on nitrous.

Or in other terms. N/A 0-60 mph = 3.8 seconds. Nitrous 0-60 = 2.7 seconds.

Trust me. That's fast.
 
Lustle said:
If you are making 430 horse. Assuming 17% power loss. Thats good for low 12's N/A. Or mid 10's on nitrous.

Or in other terms. N/A 0-60 mph = 3.8 seconds. Nitrous 0-60 = 2.7 seconds.

Trust me. That's fast.
Click to expand...
Man I just want to have fun with the car and be able to hang with LS guys lol
 
Lustle said:
If you are making 430 horse. Assuming 17% power loss. Thats good for low 12's N/A. Or mid 10's on nitrous.

Or in other terms. N/A 0-60 mph = 3.8 seconds. Nitrous 0-60 = 2.7 seconds.

Trust me. That's fast.
Click to expand...
It should hook well too, I am going to run Caltrac with mono leaf springs and 90/10 shocks up front and tie it all together with subframe connector and a 8 point cage
 
20-228-4 XE285HL Hydraulic Lifter Hydraulic-Serious street/strip cam Strong Midrange & upper RPM power. Hi-Lift design to take advantage of ported heads and single plane intake, 3000 stall with 9.5:1 comp. Chrysler 273-360 C.I. 8 CYL. 1964-
Check it out,at Comps website...
I like this grind,get matching springs..Talk to a few good companies (Dynamic /Coan/ Pro Torque/Edge) about like a good 9.5 set up for a good converter (this is the biggest part,of getting the combination right the first time..) 3:90 -4:10 gears...My two cents..
 
Those heads with the edelbrock springs should work just fine i run the 60179's which are 65c.c's compared to your 63c.c's..i'm running a Lunati .533/.552 cam for 5 seasons now without any issues..
 
Aspen
I'm not sure how to say what I'm thinking, in a way that won't sound rotten, but I'll try.
I get the sense that you are about to jump off a cliff. You are about to spend an awful lot of money,time, and effort, to "hang with the LS boys".To me, that says your actions are being controlled either by them, or your desire to be like them.Perhaps subconsciously, perhaps consciously.You are allowing yourself to be a slave to your desires. If you do have the money, and the time, and the effort,then I guess there's nothing wrong with your plan.But if you are like most of us, working for to eat and pay the mortgage; this road you are choosing, has no end. There is always somebody with more money and more time; and to hang with him, will require more from you.I just hope you have thought this over, cuz once you start, it will suck every dollar you can earn,beg,borrow or steal.
Once you have $20,000 or $30,000, or more, into a weekend warrior, IMHO it is near maddness.
That's a nice looking car you got there. But it can be reduced to rubble in mere seconds.mere seconds. Can you afford that?
I'm not trying to steal your dream. I'm just hoping to shine a little light on the road ahead.
posted with much trepidation,AJ
 
Lustle, you say I'm dramatic?!?!
LOL, look in the mirror and to answer your question, it is a rewinding "No!" But then again, if you want to take up the torch in what you assume, go right ahead.
Now get off the soap box and quit cryin!
Most of what you wrote just doesn't apply and has a zero bearing.
LMAO!
 
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