Edelbrock heads (cam selection)

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AJ/FormS said:
Aspen
I'm not sure how to say what I'm thinking, in a way that won't sound rotten, but I'll try.
I get the sense that you are about to jump off a cliff. You are about to spend an awful lot of money,time, and effort, to "hang with the LS boys".To me, that says your actions are being controlled either by them, or your desire to be like them.Perhaps subconsciously, perhaps consciously.You are allowing yourself to be a slave to your desires. If you do have the money, and the time, and the effort,then I guess there's nothing wrong with your plan.But if you are like most of us, working for to eat and pay the mortgage; this road you are choosing, has no end. There is always somebody with more money and more time; and to hang with him, will require more from you.I just hope you have thought this over, cuz once you start, it will suck every dollar you can earn,beg,borrow or steal.
Once you have $20,000 or $30,000, or more, into a weekend warrior, IMHO it is near maddness.
That's a nice looking car you got there. But it can be reduced to rubble in mere seconds.mere seconds. Can you afford that?
I'm not trying to steal your dream. I'm just hoping to shine a little light on the road ahead.
posted with much trepidation,AJ
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Yes is see you point I'm just going to run what I have. The for shining the light
 
Edelbrock suggested a converter that is low on the scale for a 305H camshaft. If you leave on juice, it will be ok.
 
image.jpeg
Maybe you misunderstood me, right now I have this cam.. Which came in the edelbrock top end kit. Which is recommended to use with a 3000 stall
 
Is the cam installed already? Cuz if not, there are way faster cams than that one, and there is no way I would run it.Like was already said. That one will totally suck unless you have a lot more convertor. You can get 230 cams with high 260s to mid 270s duration that will keep the Dcr up higher with your 10.4Scr. That will let you keep the 2800TC, and make rpms of less than 3000 way more fun to be in.
Conversely, you can get way more .050 duration with less advertised, if you really need the big duration. But if you do that, the converter will again be a hinderance.Look for a cam that has 45 degrees or less spread between advertised and .050. For your application, you will need one with really fast ramps, like a solid or a roller. But if you really insist on the big stuff, you are gonna need to port those heads. I think I just spent $3000 for you there; see what I mean?
-My OOTB Eddies do pretty good with a 230*@050 cam that is 276 advertised. That is a 45* spread. This size cam IMO is very street friendly, while with the right springs and set-up pulls hard to deep in the 6000s. I like to wind it out to 7000 as often as I can, cuz it sounds outrageous, goes there, and is still pulling.
- Hughes Engines built a similar engine. IIRC they claimed theirs made 437/437 or something close to it.HotRod Magazine also built a similar engine.
-When I built mine, I had Nitrous in the back of my mind.But after I drove it,I was quite happy with it just as it was. And since I had no interest in racing it , nor was I interested in bragging rights, I shelved the NOs idea. I have never missed it.I have my hands full staying outta trouble with what I got.
#11---360 Dyno Test (Feb 2000)
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Is the cam installed already? Cuz if not, there are way faster cams than that one, and there is no way I would run it.Like was already said. That one will totally suck unless you have a lot more convertor. You can get 230 cams with high 260s to mid 270s duration that will keep the Dcr up higher with your 10.4Scr. That will let you keep the 2800TC, and make rpms of less than 3000 way more fun to be in.
Conversely, you can get way more .050 duration with less advertised, if you really need the big duration. But if you do that, the converter will again be a hinderance.Look for a cam that has 45 degrees or less spread between advertised and .050. For your application, you will need one with really fast ramps, like a solid or a roller. But if you really insist on the big stuff, you are gonna need to port those heads. I think I just spent $3000 for you there; see what I mean?
My OOTB Eddies do pretty good with a 230*@050 cam that is 276 advertised. That is a 45* spread. This size cam IMO is very street friendly, while with the right springs and set-up pulls hard to deep in the 6000s
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So much knowledge and I love it. The cam I have is install BUT I will upgrade. So what the part number on that cam that your ran with Eddie heads ootb? My head have only had valve job and check by a machine shop. With this cam you are talking about and 2800 shall and maybe a 200 hp shot what should I expect?
 
I started out with a stock 318/904/7 1/4.
1. 360 deh275, 727 off the shelf converter, 8 3/4 3.23

worked great should have just bought a different converter.
2. 360 ede heads xe284, 727 turbo action manual vb custom converter, 8 3/4 3.91


no bottom end. sucked driving on the street
3.same as above with voodoo 60403, A833 266 1st gear CF Dual friction

work in progress (sorry for the terrible video)

loving this voodoo cam. good bottom end. didn't loose a bunch top end. FUN!
 
Get a "real" converter T.C.I. products are"junk"...when at all possible DON'T go cheap on your build eventually its going to cost ya'..
 
rumblefish360 said:
Lustle, you say I'm dramatic?!?!
LOL, look in the mirror and to answer your question, it is a rewinding "No!" But then again, if you want to take up the torch in what you assume, go right ahead.
Now get off the soap box and quit cryin!
Most of what you wrote just doesn't apply and has a zero bearing.
LMAO!
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Are you still here? And STILL commenting without contributing? Huh....

Aspen79 said:
View attachment 1714950590 Maybe you misunderstood me, right now I have this cam.. Which came in the edelbrock top end kit. Which is recommended to use with a 3000 stall
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I would say 3000 stall is appropriate for that cam. And it's not the stall we are ragging on. It's the choice of torque converter. "Off the shelf" torque converters will always be beaten by custom built ones. A custom built torque converter will wind tighter at low RPM for better throttle/torque response, have better brazing, and be designed SPECIFICALLY for your combo. You should see the list of questions they ask. Even with the same stall, you'll see much better performance out of a custom built unit.

If that cam is installed, I would run it and see how it does. You're messing with a system that you haven't even tried yet. So how do you know what it needs if you haven't run it?

In the future though, if you are "looking for more". I would suggest the following:

Solid roller that has duration/lift matched to what your head flow - if you want low end torque select a cam between 230/240 @50 and below, something in the area of .550 lift, if you want hot street, 240/250 @50 in the area of .600 lift, if you want all out then 250+ @50 with over .600 lift.
Get 1.6 roller rockers, I personally like hughes, no needles, bare, basic, and good price
Ported heads with flow charts so you can select cam - for example, don't get a cam that has .650 lift, if your heads are giving up the air at .600, mismatched parts makes a dog
Dyno the engine, figure out peak horsepower
Based on peak horse/tire size select gearing so that you "trap" just below peak power
New custom torque converter built to match setup

I mean obviously there is more too it. Keep up DCR, exhaust is important, etc etc. But thats a general guideline. Lots of good advice in here too.

One thing I would say is, don't pay 100% attention to that website either, looks like it was made in '96 and I'm sure there are better builds and such out there now. Don't be surprised if you build the same engine and it doesn't do quite as well. Check out the hughes site for a great 360 build that does well over 500 horsepower. #14---360 Stage 3 Dyno Test
Although don't take that as gospel either.

And don't be surprised if you starting beating the guys with "500+ horse" small blocks. A lot of guys have no idea what they are actually running.
 
Yea Lustle, sometimes I do that and sometimes I even direct comments directly to prople.

Sometimes, I direct comments to jerks like you. But for the most part, you don't make the grade. But you can think so if you wish and rise to your soap box again if you so feel the need to let hot air out of the ballon, AKA, you.

Otherwise, put a fork in the pie hole and keep up the good advice as in the above post to the OE poster.
 
- Hughes Engines built a similar engine. IIRC they claimed theirs made 437/437 or something close to it.HotRod Magazine also built a similar engine.
-When I built mine, I had Nitrous in the back of my mind.But after I drove it,I was quite happy with it just as it was. And since I had no interest in racing it , nor was I interested in bragging rights, I shelved the NOs idea. I have never missed it.I have my hands full staying outta trouble with what I got.
#11---360 Dyno Test (Feb 2000)

Above links are pretty sweet looking
 
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