Edlebrock Heads

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JimmyV

MOPAR!!
Joined
Mar 28, 2006
Messages
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Location
Spokane Valley WA
I have the edlebrock perfromer aluminum heads and they have dual valve springs..i was told the other dday that i need to take out the inner spring for brake in other wise i will flatten my cam and i have talked to a couple people chevy and ford owners and they say that have never had to do that to brake in a cam..so is this just a mopar thing or what..please help me

thanks
 
Dude you need to call the edelbrock tech line and ask them> If anyone would know they would.
Phone: 310-781-2222
Fax: 310-320-1187
Tech Line Only: 800-416-8628

Hours: Monday-Friday 8:00 am-12:30, 1:30-5:00 pm PST, weekdays

Tech Line Hours: Monday-Friday 7:00 am to 5:00 pm PST, weekdays

Send all fuel-injection-related questions to [email protected]

For all other tech questions, feedback and comments write to: [email protected]
 
I think it depends more on the cam choice, than the springs. An aggressive profile should be broken in without the inner springs..First, it takes a big load off the lifter base, easing an already problematic area..second, it takes very little time to replace them, and you dont need air tools. I make it a habit to never run the inners on a cam that needs double springs, excepting roller cams.
Also, you want to make darn sure the Edeelbrock springs can handle the cam profile..they say "fits up to .600 lift"...but lift is NOT what you use to figure if a spring will work for your package. It's one factor of several. The cams I've used that need 340# open pressures are too large for the Edelbrock supplied springs in most cases. Also, if its a street car of any type, you want to use a heavier spring if possible. Not becuase it's insurance..because valve springs do fatigue, like anything else. A spring worked at near it's rated limit of lift will fatigue and lose tension far earlier than a spring with a little more pressure, that operates at 1/2 it's rated max lift. So, a street car that runs all summer will need new springs in a couple of seasons..where the heavier unit might not need them at all thru the life of the engine. $.02
 
Those are not inner springs, there dampers. No worrys. FYI, I broke in the purple 292/.509 cam with the heads OOTB without any problems.
If it had dual springs, it would be 2 springs and the damper. Looking like 3 coils in there.
 
moper. how do you remove valve springs from an assemble motor without
an air source?
As for tech lines, I would not take everything they tell you as gospel. I've
gotten bad info from tech lines several times. Comp's tech line recommended
a set of pushrods for my comp roller cam and springs . After I bent several of
them (I attributed it to over revving) I called and again asked for there advice for a set that would work for their cam and springs I was using.
They sent me the same set again, only this time I called the tech line again
before installing them to confirm that they were in fact right for the application. This time the tech informed me that they were no more than stock replacements!!! And in fact they had no premade pushrods that would come anywhere close to that application!!! Then they told me I could return
them , but I had to pay shipping.

I CALLED SMITH BROS.
 
Feed some clean 1/4 nylon rope (quite a bit) in through the spark plug hole, then bring the piston up as tight as you can. That way you can use one of the "spring mounted" compressor's without dropping the valve...... :thumblef:
 
I Am Using The Same Heads With A .557 Lift Solid Cam And I Have Hade No Problems With Brake In. And Last Sat. I Painted The Car Plumb Crazey Purple. Ben Waiting For Sixteen Years To Get That Paint On The Car. Hope To Have Pic Soon For You All To See.
 
hmm thanks for the info guys..yeah my cam is a 294 duration and 525 lift. and the guy that bulit my motor said that the springs on teh eddys would work good with that cam and i wouldnt have to change them..so hopefully he is right.. so if the spring inside is a dampner do i need to remove it on brake in or am i safe to keep it in there.....than nylon rope trick sounds cool..but kinda seems like it would be a pain in the ***..i like useing air better..for the quickness.but still nylon rope is a good side of the road or airless shop type trick..i like it..well talk to ya'll later
 
Like Lancester said..I use cotton rope. I've used it a lot in the past, and never had a problem. I have heard of it getting stuck, but I dont recall ever having that problem. I've had engines back up with shop air, and once the piston is at the bottom, and you open the valve a bit, it can fall. It just makes me nervous enough that I try not to use air if possible. The biggest issue I've had is the large double springs can be difficult to compress with the hand cranky types. The teeth on the fingers arent long enough to grab inner and outer, unless you're careful.
 
I know of the rope trick ,but have never tried it. Won't it leave fibers in your
cylinders ? And if so I would think cotton would be a better way to go.

As for spring compressors, MAC makes a lever style one that mounts on an old rocker shaft and you use a 3/8 ratchet with it. Works great!!

BTW, I should think that if your valve seals are not shot, the valve should not be able to drop into the cylinder.
 
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