EEC tank vs non EEC/ 71 Dart

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hemibee

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Can we just get rid of the eec tank (70,71) for the 72 non eec? EEC seems over complex. My tank is rusted out. Bought the new eec tank already. Going to install a electric fuel pump with a return line. Was going to hook up the the four lines from tank to the vapor tube thing. Block off the vapor return line to the tube thing in trunk(carbon filter?) The 5th line to the vapor tube thing is the vapor return line in the eec sytem it appears. Than just run a vapor return from a bipass regulator to the tank through the 3/8 return line in the fuel sender unit. 72 up fuel sender unit has a return line in it. Slick or what have I got wrong here? Tank gets it vapor needs met and fuel system gets its return line to the tank in a electric fuel pump set up.
Must be some good posts already on the EEC system to point me to. And yes, I am on steep learning curve. I am used to that. My engine builder, Gromm Racing of San Jose, has said give the new 408 stroker lots of fuel. 3/8 stainless for the corrosive fuel we have now is good. 140gph minimum he says. Looks like bust out the bucks again. Doing mopars all my life, so they are always familiar. Expensive, but way fun.
 
"All those fittings" are not just EEC, they are the TANK VENT. All older cars had the vent welded into the top of the filler tube in the trunk, went up, "U" turn down along the filler tube and "open ended" inside the rear frame

The reason for "all that stuff" into the can is to make sure that "something" is above "water" at all times. The liquid / vapor separator can has different heights of tubes inside in order to do that, and one is at the bottom for drainback.

The problem with using just one tank fitting for a vent is, when it's submerged, it will puke fuel out up and over and will start a siphon that will continue to drain fuel overboard until either the fitting "sees air" or the tank builds enough vacuum to stop the siphon.

With the old style vent "up high" the worst that could happen is that fuel would siphon a little bit until the filler tube level dropped down. This "should" be a rarity.

If I were in your shoes and did not want to hook all that back up, I'd do exactly as the old style filler--I'd braze a fitting into the filler tube and duplicate the old style vent.

You can certainly use one fitting for regulator return

old style vent:

2cmugso.jpg



None of Mopar caps are vented. The "pressure vacuum" caps on the later cars are not for an operational vent, but for over/ under pressure protection, a relief valve, if you will

Here go read the shop manual:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088657

72 manual, thank AbodyJoe

[ame="http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf"]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/1972%20Plymouth%20Chassis%20Serv%20Man.pdf[/ame]

Part of the info is in the fuel chapter, part of it in the emissions chapter in the back

and..................

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=183956

2r2q0ra.jpg
 
thanks, lots to read about. finding the drawing of the systems helps understand the starting point/idea of the original system. Was looking at a 68 dart gts fuel vent at a show recently. My car does not have the charcoal canister on it. Could just be missing. November 71 build. Got car from local guy who claimed to have owned it as second owner since the early 1980's. Paper work, history seemed legit. He wanted to do a 340/360 cloner. Bucket seats, floor shift. Some good, some bad with his work. Been sitting since 91 or 92 after he removed the 318/904 trans. Gave me a well used 1976, 360 motor . The block barely passed sonic testing. Building on that. 408 stroker soon. 30 over,9.5:1. RHS 360 La x heads. comp 268/274 solid. 727 trans.
 
I think 70 was the "split year" for all models. My 70 440-6 RR had no evap controls "it was an Oregon car." California cars got the vent system in 70. I believe everything 71/ later got it. There were changes over the years.
 
Oops, meant November 1970 build. But you right, 70, and early 71 builds have that darn eec. especially Calif cars. It was built in the (Canadian factory?) back east and shipped out to Calif. At least that was what I thought I found on it when I did the lookup at first. Guess Chrysler used the Canadian factory to cut costs.
 
Update, RHS discontinued the iron heads. Switching to Eddi aluminum. Now I feel like everyone else.....
 
I had an article on that system. Chrysler called it a vent system.But it was also listed as collision impact protection. It was a total failure and was discontinued . It was designed that way to contain fuel in the car in case of a severe rear end collision.

I believe if you check back in the civil action archives you will see they really screwed up. "they forgot about the Dome light when you open the door". If it was to get out they would have had to recall all cars that were built with this system.

I want to leave mine in place on my restored Duster. So I will be plugging all lines and installing the line on the fill tube.

My current Orange Duster I eliminated that fuel tank. I used a 73 tank and used the front top vent tube for a return. I also put the vent line on the fill tube from a early 70. Works great. I also took 3 inches out of the passenger side of the tank to keep the tailpipes and tips. I like Tips.
 

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nice, looks like the springs moved inward for the bigger tires. all fits good. custom fuel sump out to the electric fuel pump and filter. got any pics of the fuel system on the grey or orange duster? always love how we mopar guys figure out the answer to our problems. the only consistent advice I have read about is to not dead head a eclectic fuel system. always run a return to the tank. a seperate relay is advised also. 3/8 inch or an8 minimum. regulater before or after carb was argued both ways. before carb seemed more logical. Thanks for the continuing advice on mopar fuel setups. the Chevy and Ford guys have over the counter options way more than we do. they have mechanical pumps flowing 170gph with an10, for the 454 and up big blocks. built 440 should need the same.
 
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