Effect on value?

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Gib Warnick

'65 Valiant signet
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How much is the value of a 69 Dart GTS lowered if original 340 is mia and replaced with a 318. Otherwise very nice blue/black interior and appearance. Very clean and updated. At a dealer. They came off $29000 price to 2322000. Haven't seen car yet. Hoping has the original X heads... What do you think?
 
Sounds a little strong but the value of these cars are getting a little crazy. Unless you do all the work yourself, you can put $25,000 in a car in a heartbeat now days. Just think, 2 weeks of work at a body shop that charges $100/hour is a $8,000 paycheck for them.
 
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Sounds a little strong but the value of these cars are getting a little crazy. Unless you do all the work yourself, You can put $25,000 in a car in a heartbeat now days. Just think, 2 weeks of work at a body shop that charges $100/hour is a $8,000 paycheck for them.

THIS^^^^^

You can drop 10k so fast it will make your head spin. 20k or a bit more is nothing in todays markey.

I tell everyone to spend the money on a clean, well inspected runner rather than buying a project car thinking you can do it cheaper.

The last guy that did that was told by me (and others) to buy a runner. He opted to spend 5500 on a “project”. When the engine goes over the dyno in a couple of months he will have spent a bit over 40k on it. And the paint and body works is passable and thats it.
 
Certainly for the 29K it should have the original engine. I guess you're gonna have to figure out how badly you want it. I think the 23xxx whatever figure is too high as well. Of course, all this is based on nothing, since we have no pictures. It could be a super nice car, or a body filled POS. So anything said here is just a guess.
 
340 to 318, perhaps a number 3 condition overall, then 30% less than if it had the 340 and whatever other parts its had swapped
 
Sounds reasonable to me. AS mentioned, you will put way more into a project. Thy came down a good proper amount due to the engine. Now, buy the car if it checks out and go beat the hell out of that engine since it's "just" a 318 and not original. Meantime, find a 340 with X-heads if it's important for you to have a 340 in it.
 
$23k for a clean, well done car is a good price regardless of numbers.

As pointed out, if it really is clean and well done it would cost far more than that to build it, even from a solid starting point.

If it were numbers matching and super clean it could get twice what they’re at now, the market is still up for classics. The pro-touring cars are the bubble right now, they’re going for insane prices at auction.

If it’s what you want I don’t think it’s a bad price at all, especially for a dealer. You could spend more and get less if it’s as you say it is
 
Everything hinges on the body and paint. If the car was a original 340 car and now has a 318, of course that will lower the value to a degree
If the car shows well, not full of filler, rust free, nice interior, id say its worth what they are asking....You do have a lot of boxes to check off however
 
A lot depends on how well the rest of the car matches the fender tag and what kind of documentation the car comes with. Do the stamped body numbers match the VIN? Lots to consider.
 
340 to 318, perhaps a number 3 condition overall, then 30% less than if it had the 340 and whatever other parts its had swapped
It's at least a number 2 condition. I talked to them today and offered $21500. Gonna have to sell my beautiful 86 Ram survivor short bed if I buy it...
 
If it's truly a #2, it's a bargain. That means no Bondo over 1/16" and the thin magnet sticks all over, and not missing any parts other than the engine replacement. Hope it looks good in person when you go and check, and you come home with something nice.
 
I think you have to forget the GTS price because the original engine is gone. If 29 k is the book for a GTS in the condition it's in now, I'd pay maybe 20k for a "nice" '69 Dart 318. That's saying the paint is in very good shape, as that is the most expensive repair these days. I think finding another 340 and installing it wouldn't up the value more than your expense for the change over. If you like the car and are looking to spend 20k, forget about it's book value today, which is only important if your flipping it (IMHO), and buy it if it's what you're looking for.
 
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Going up Thursday to see it. It is really nice.
Like someone above said if the body is solid not full of bondo and doesn't have a 1/4 inch of under coating on the bottom trying to hide stuff. No rust in floors and trunk drop downs and spare tire well are solid and not bondo'ed up and its a real GTS good appearance then price is good. Little hard for us to say but in general the elephant in the room is that body sheet metal and paint because that is insane crazy cost if you can't do that work all yourself and a lot of nightmares could be hiding under shiny paint.

I been doing several non-mopar restorations over the last 15 or so years cutting out rust, butt welding in patches, block sanding panels straight ect ect. Its quite expensive for paint and other supplies even if you do all the work yourself. Body work paint is crazy insane expensive none of the quality materials and supplies are cheap at all. And the crazy prices shops charge none of the shops are getting rich retiring early it just cost a lot of money for labor and supplies.

So you better be looking over that body closely and know what you are looking for in terms of body integrity ect ect.
 
The car tuned out to be full of Bondo, rods knocking, engine smoking,. Worst driving car I've ever driven. Drone 5 hours...
 
That's unfortunate. Don't let it get you down. There's a nice one out there somewhere with your name on it.
 
Dealers scare me in this day and age... How about if you pass on this one and take the winter to locate a seller who is the owner and can verify the history? Dealers will tell you anything they can to make a sale IMO...

JW
 
Tough break, but not too surprized. Number 2 cars aren't pleantiful and usually command a strong price. A lot of people that think they have a 2 often have a 3 or 4. And some dealers can add to the confussion trying to skin a buck from someone.

Like trying to find the house of your dreams, you sometimes have to look at quite a few to find "the one." Consider your adventure a valuable lesson about not buying sight unseen.

When decided I was looking for an original 6 pac car I flew across the country a couple times to see a couple cars and didn't buy. But I didn't regret the time or the expense after I found the car that had what I wanted and was the best value, and in the end it was closer to home and I drove it home instead of shipping it. In the last few years I've seen some pretty nice cars for sale on this site, and I would trust a hobbyist member more than most any dealer. Good luck on your hunt.
 
The car tuned out to be full of Bondo, rods knocking, engine smoking,. Worst driving car I've ever driven. Drone 5 hours...

Bummer man. Old cars at dealerships are kind of a crap shoot. So much easier to talk to an actual owner, at least if they're clueless they'll usually tell you that, if not in so many words anyway.

Good luck with the search!
 
Several years ago, Kitty and I rode over three hours to look at a mid 60s Dodge truck at a dealer in north Georgia. Advertised on the internet as "totally restored" with a good price. Got there and it was a total rust and bondo bucket. Even the salesman kept apologizing. He even followed us to a nearby gas station and filled our tank back up. Kitty was fit to be tied. She's the one who wanted the truck. lol
 
The car tuned out to be full of Bondo, rods knocking, engine smoking,. Worst driving car I've ever driven. Drone 5 hours...
Good thing you didn't buy it sight unseen because someone else might end up sending money and finding out they got ripped off once car arrives.
 
Pricing is CrAzY. I have been looking for a second gen Barracuda fastback. Found one local, very solid car in all the right places but needs both front floor pans and the bottoms of both quarters replaced due to lousy repairs. In primer, interior and trim is completely disassembled. All the parts are there. Roller. All new front suspension. 8 3/4 rear and a supposedly fresh 340 on the stand. Non numbers matching. 10 grand. Had my body guy take a look, he said buy it then quoted me 10 grand for the body and paint with me putting it back together. Then there are the unknowns like dash restoration, grill restoration and have you price tail lights for these cars? I am on the fence and considering looking for a finished car.
 
Pricing is CrAzY. I have been looking for a second gen Barracuda fastback. Found one local, very solid car in all the right places but needs both front floor pans and the bottoms of both quarters replaced due to lousy repairs. In primer, interior and trim is completely disassembled. All the parts are there. Roller. All new front suspension. 8 3/4 rear and a supposedly fresh 340 on the stand. Non numbers matching. 10 grand. Had my body guy take a look, he said buy it then quoted me 10 grand for the body and paint with me putting it back together. Then there are the unknowns like dash restoration, grill restoration and have you price tail lights for these cars? I am on the fence and considering looking for a finished car.
Is the guy doing your body and paint work competent, can you trust him? You didn't say whose buying paint and materials but regardless ten grand is low price
If the car turns out to be what you hope it is and your body guy can finish it for ten large, id say your getting a good deal but "IF" is a big word...
 
What you spend on an old Mopar has nothing to do with its value.
If you want the car, decide what it is worth to you and make an offer.
 
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