Elderbrock super Victor intake.

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Conch27

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Any one have one of these? I currently have a performer on my 318 and since my car is more for drag racing I want to get the most out of my 318, Is this a better way to go? I am running a Holley 650 double pumper. Good cam. Wondering if this will get me anything. Thanks for your help.
 
Wondering if this will get me anything. Thanks for your help.

Maybe??? If you've got 318/small port heads, the mismatch would be huge. Not sure what you're overall combo is, but you'll need some serious gear, and/or, a serious stall converter to make that intake work with the small cubes.
 
The super victor is pretty much a race only large port real high rpm intake. Unless you've got a 12 to 1 compression solid roller cammed large port stage 3 ported and polished heads and super deep gears I highly doubt it'd work good for you.
 
I'm not positive but I think the Holley street dominator was a small port single plane intake that worked good on builds like yours. Your only issue is the small stall convertor. With an engine that small and racing in mind you generally want a converter quite a bit looser than that cause teens make most of their power up high in the rpm range.
 
I'm not positive but I think the Holley street dominator was a small port single plane intake that worked good on builds like yours. Your only issue is the small stall convertor. With an engine that small and racing in mind you generally want a converter quite a bit looser than that cause teens make most of their power up high in the rpm range.

Got ya, ya my car for some reason loves 2nd gear. I do not leave well and that is probable why.... Thanks for your help. I am loving this and really appreciate all the help people have given me on this forum. Thanks!

Time for a bigger stall converter. I was only looking at intakes due to a stripped water neck thread.
 
How would 3600 stall work you think? Bigger?

That'd be a real big improvement and depending on the cam and heads your running may be all you need. One thing to keep in mind when shopping for a converter is get one spec'd for your car, not something someone else had made for their car. Reason being, engine torque output, car weight, gear ratio, tire height all affect what a converter will stall. You can have a converter in one car stall 3600 and put it in another with a smaller lower torque engine and it may only stall 2500. If you do buy used keep in mind all the things that affect it.
 
I understand you're trying to step it up a bit, but without knowing what you're overall engine setup is, it's hard to make recommendations as to what would be the most cost effective.

Depending on what you're dealing with......a good used LD4B intake, while pricey, and possibly a little more cam then what you have, may give you some more umph! If this is a stock compression teen, there's not a lot of mods you can do at this point.

You're timing and curve could possible give you a few more ponies.....
 
My car is a 1969 Plymouth Valiant. Ford 9" rear end with 4.11. 727 trans. My 318 was bored .30 over, flat top pistons, cam makes power from 2200-5200, cam is 278/290 lift .467/.494. Stall is a 2400 now. MSD ignition system. How does that all sound to you guys?
 
IMO, Leave the intake and put a 1" open spacer under your carb.

A better converter with more stall won't hurt. Where do you shift it?
 
Sounds like you're in decent shape at this point. That sounds like a Crane cam, and for what you're doing right now, it ain't half bad. I'd continue to try and do some tuning to gain a little at this point. The next step would probably be a good brand converter in the 3000/3500 range, especially if you want to do some street driving also.
 
Awesome, Thanks Rick. I have been doing a lot of tuning and timing. I finally got the hesitations and bogs out. I may try the two silver springs in my msd to get my timing in sooner next time. Thinking it may help me leave better. I got the black cam, blue and a silver now. at least I think they are silver, the lightest springs.
 
I'm guessing you'll probably be good in the high teens to 20* initial range and close to 36* total timing. As far as the springs and bushings, "crackedback" can guide you there as the MSD stuff is a little after my time....lol.

Good luck as you move forward. It sounds like a really fun ride you have going there. :thumbrig:
 
If you're looking to evolve this engine over time, I'd suggest you do it in this order.

Converter > heads > cam > intake

In my opinion this is the order in which you will get biggest gains soonest, and smaller gains later.
 
If you're looking to evolve this engine over time, I'd suggest you do it in this order.

Converter > heads > cam > intake

In my opinion this is the order in which you will get biggest gains soonest, and smaller gains later.

I agree those will get you the best gain but keep in mind when buying a converter that if you change the cam, intake and heads later the stall speed the converter produces will most likely be affected. Generally speaking if you install components that give you more rpm ability/top end horsepower you'll loose some low end torque so the stall speed will go down. It's still not a bad plan, just gotta plan for the future upgrades when ordering a converter.
 
I agree those will get you the best gain but keep in mind when buying a converter that if you change the cam, intake and heads later the stall speed the converter produces will most likely be affected. Generally speaking if you install components that give you more rpm ability/top end horsepower you'll loose some low end torque so the stall speed will go down. It's still not a bad plan, just gotta plan for the future upgrades when ordering a converter.

correct me if I'm wrong, but if you shift the torque curve up higher into the RPM band wouldn't the stall speed also move higher?

For example if you have an engine where cam that makes 400ft/lbs at 3000RPM and have a "3000 rpm stall" made for YOUR engine

then you change to a cam so the engine peaks 400ft/lbs at 4000 RPM (netting more horsepower) wouldn't that same torque converter then stall at 4000rpm instead of 3000rpm?

So in effect changing to a more aggressive cam would often increase the stall speed rather than decrease it.

Or am I way off the mark here?
 
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