Electric choke wire hookup

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I am thinking about the same thing. I will likely run it to the +12V side of the ignition resistor so it is on only when the key is on with a fuse inline and gets the full battery 12V (not after the resistor).
 
Please stop starting new threads on the same subject. I'm going to say NO! Why? Because NOTHING in the fuse box is "ignition." All of that is either hot full time or "accessory" You don't want the choke active if you are stopped with the key on accessory

THERE IS ONLY ONE switched power under the hood, PERIOD. This is the "ignition run" circuit. I could swear I already explained that to you
 
I though I had a flashback to last week since this is the same topic that was raised then. Clearly you’re not getting an answer you want but stop creating the same thread hoping for a different answer. That’s the definition of insanity.
 
Do whatever the hell you want.... if I was you I would take the black and the red from battery and run them both direct to choke. With a 5 gallon gas can on the inner fender.

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IIRC the 12v holds the choke OFF.
 
I will merge the two when I get close to my laptop. Done.
 
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leblanc said:
View attachment 1715261287
My carb with electric choke came like this. Black wire on right goes to one of golden screws on base (ground maybe) and red wire goes through firewall to 12 volt connection or anywhere, maybe even to battery.
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It can't go to the battery. That would be hot at all times, choke always open, battery always draining.
When/where the factory added a tachometer they did run a wire through the firewall but they didn't tag it onto a preexisting switched fused circuit. It got its own stand alone fused circuit. Maybe so a short circuit wouldn't take out wipers, or turn signals, something more important than a tachometer? Maybe because those few circuits were already loaded to the fuse amp rating? I don't have answer.
I do know that when/where the factory added electric choke they tied it to the preexisting blue switched wire in the engine bay.
If we can't take our clues from their engineers, what do we do?
Asking the same question repeatedly surely doesn't work LOL
 
Sixty damn one posts and "we" still don't have a one wire circuit wire yet. I'm impressed. Well, maybe not
 
Think some more about my previous post. If you can not or do not want to put a choke controller on to shut off the power after warm up then wire it on ignition hot wire protected by the wiper breaker. Worst case is you loose the wipers when raining and pull over and disconnect the choke after shutting off the ignition if burns up. It resets the breaker and you drive on with wipers till you can fix it. Mine is wired on the blue +feed to 2 speed wiper motor by double crimp at the bulkhead. If you are looking hard you will never notice and it has worked great for the last 4 years.
 
I understand that this choke power question is no longer a question but, I wanted to share a tidbit of information that is rarely recognized.
In later models (I forget what year this began) where the radios power connector has a red or pink wire supplying 12 volts, you will find a white wire in with that 12 supply wire. So the white wire is to carry 12 volts to the turn signal switch connector. The problem with that is there is already a white wire in the turn signal switch connector that comes from the brake lamp switch. 2 white wires of same gauge would just cause confusion.
The engineers needed to take the white wire to some terminal to change its color. Least expensive location was one of the female packard terminals in the bulkhead connector. The white wire goes there to join a black wire to continue on to the turn signal switch connector. There is no male parkard terminal on the engine side of this bulkhead connector port. Adding a male terminal with any color wire here gets us another swiched 12 volt source in the engine bay.
 
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