Electric Fuel Pump Just Quit?

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Divenut

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Hey Folks,

The Girls and I got the 340 buttoned up after replacing the timing gear/chain, water pump, starter relay, various gaskets, hoses, fuel filter, fuel line etc. Turn the key to the 1st position to prime the carb and nothing. Figures the one thing we do not touch fails! :banghead: Here's some details:


72 340
Electric fuel pump (Was installed by PO)
Ran fine when car was last driven
I am not a electrical whiz :???:


Car has not been started since April
Checked fuse
Checked Charge on Battery
Not sure if their is a relay for the pump? Did not find one while tracing the wiring which runs directly to the fuse panel.

Will check the ground at the pump and also determine if we're getting power to the pump. tonight. If not, I'll have to retrace the wiring. Hopefully it's not the ignition switch.

Is it unusual for pumps to just quit w/o any obvious symptoms?


Thanks in advance for helping us out with the troubleshooting.

Pat & Kids
 
I have seen them just decide to quit, but, I would remove the pump (external) and bench check it myself :glasses7:
 
memike/trailbeast,

Thanks for the quick responses. Much appreciated, as always! The kids and I will get under the car this week to take a look at the pump and test it out. Never fails with projects does it? You fix one thing, and something else goes south LOL! If nothing else, my daughters will get some experience with the fuel system :cheers:

Have a great day fellas,
Pat
 
Mechanical pumps do not fail that way. They don't need a hot wire or a ground and can be checked by removing the pressure side and cranking the engine. Funny that.
 
Mechanical pumps do not fail that way. They don't need a hot wire or a ground and can be checked by removing the pressure side and cranking the engine. Funny that.

that's almost a Helpful comment.
as someone previous posted try tapping it when its powered up and see if it starts back up.
after you check for good power and grounds.
 
If it's a holley pump the rotor veins will get gummed up and not pump fuel, but being it's an electrical issue, take a test lite or meter and make sure your getting power at the pump! You can check for a ground at the same time! Some electric fuel pumps have a cheaper motor in them and like. Starter they wear down and stop conducting! If you buy a new pump make sure you find one that is designed for continuous use !!!
 
Mechanical pumps do not fail that way. They don't need a hot wire or a ground and can be checked by removing the pressure side and cranking the engine. Funny that.

Never seen an electric fail and fill the motor with gas either.
 
it could also be hooked up with an inertia switch that may have been bumped .
 
Hey folks. Thanks again for the useful tips and support. The project has taught my daughters the virtue of patience. Even when dad looses his!

Doug 371 & Vitamindart - It's amazing how a good tap can sometimes fix stuff :D The trick will be keeping the kids from whaling on it too much. :violent1:

Fisher - Thanks for the suggestions on the pump if a replacement is in order. Hoping to find a loose ground, or at least find we're getting power to the pump when we test it. Wish us luck...

And again, thanks all.

Pat
 
Hey Folks,

Well, we slid under the car and checked the connections on the pump, all was good. Then turned the ignition on and hit the leads with our tester and showed 12v. Tapped the pump with a piece of wood and heard a weird/sick sounding little noise, then nothing. So we're off to surf the web for a new pump. Guessing something with about 95 gph and 6.5-7 psi should fill the bill for our little 340. :blob:

Thanks again for all the input, suggestions and tips.

Pat & Kids
 
Hey Folks,

Well, we slid under the car and checked the connections on the pump, all was good. Then turned the ignition on and hit the leads with our tester and showed 12v. Tapped the pump with a piece of wood and heard a weird/sick sounding little noise, then nothing. So we're off to surf the web for a new pump. Guessing something with about 95 gph and 6.5-7 psi should fill the bill for our little 340. :blob:

Thanks again for all the input, suggestions and tips.

Pat & Kids


95 GPH? what are you running a double street hemi set up?:D 7 PSI is getting up there for a single 4 barrel but will work fine for the most part, more fuel then most engines need
 
95 GPH? what are you running a double street hemi set up?:D 7 PSI is getting up there for a single 4 barrel but will work fine for the most part, more fuel then most engines need

Hi 66plyValiant. I wish I were running a double street hemi set up LOL. :burnout:

The 95 GPH is the Free Flow value which is pretty typical for street driven cars. Our 340 is pretty basic, i.e. some cam, intake, 3/8" fuel line, converter etc. Now for high perf/drag cars 130 GPH free flow pushing 13'ish psi and up is pretty typical.

Take care,
Pat

P.S. That's a sweet ride you got there!
 
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