Electric VS standard fan

-
Just an FYI about the the water not boiling at 212 is because the system is under pressure, 16lbs. When you put pressure on an liquid you force it closer together making it have to push harder against the air and make its boiling point higher.
 
I have been trying to fix over temp problem with my 71 Duster for a year. I have new engine-- 500 miles on it maybe--3 core aluminum radiator--26"x 16".The radiator does not fit into the cutout in the radiator support and therefore is mounted on the back of the support and has only 2.5" clearance to water pump pulley. I have tried 5 different electric fan combinations and cannot keep this engine cool in traffic in Florida in the summer. Last dual setup I bought was a Spal dual fan with dual 12" fans that were supposed to pull 2800 CFM and I was getting the best results with that setup but still hitting 230 when I checked it right after shutdown. I bought the baddest dual Spal fan available--but need 3.5 inch clearance to install. I'm done with electric fans I think--going to buy correct size radiator and go back standard fan and shroud. I probably spent $1500 on electric fans and just give up. Anybody want to comment. Motor is built with no expense spared and temp is OK driving on the interstate but in traffic it heats up and takes 10-20 miles on the interstate to cool down. Somebody talk me out of going back to the factory setup. I'm well versed on cooling problems as I also have a Pantera--which is notoriously hard to cool--worked that problem out quickly with a set of Spal shrouded fans that were over $700 and it stays cool in 90 temps without even turning on the second fan. Somebody talk me out of going back to the factory setup.
 
OK you do know that this thread is old. Just start a new post instead. and yes I too have revived the dead before.
 
bahamasdivers said:
I have been trying to fix over temp problem with my 71 Duster for a year. I have new engine-- 500 miles on it maybe--3 core aluminum radiator--26"x 16".The radiator does not fit into the cutout in the radiator support and therefore is mounted on the back of the support and has only 2.5" clearance to water pump pulley. I have tried 5 different electric fan combinations and cannot keep this engine cool in traffic in Florida in the summer. Last dual setup I bought was a Spal dual fan with dual 12" fans that were supposed to pull 2800 CFM and I was getting the best results with that setup but still hitting 230 when I checked it right after shutdown. I bought the baddest dual Spal fan available--but need 3.5 inch clearance to install. I'm done with electric fans I think--going to buy correct size radiator and go back standard fan and shroud. I probably spent $1500 on electric fans and just give up. Anybody want to comment. Motor is built with no expense spared and temp is OK driving on the interstate but in traffic it heats up and takes 10-20 miles on the interstate to cool down. Somebody talk me out of going back to the factory setup. I'm well versed on cooling problems as I also have a Pantera--which is notoriously hard to cool--worked that problem out quickly with a set of Spal shrouded fans that were over $700 and it stays cool in 90 temps without even turning on the second fan. Somebody talk me out of going back to the factory setup.
Click to expand...

Do you have a big block, or small block? Auto or manual transmission? Are you using a thermostat, if so, what range is it? Its a stretch, but your lower radiator hose could be collapsing as well...Are you using a good mechanical temperature gauge? What brand is the radiator? If you can take some pics of your setup, it may help...
 
he probably did a google search, which brings up a lotta threads from all forums, new or old....anyways, no problem in reviving an old thread, he's here asking, lets try to help him out...:)
 
To me it is unclear about the mounting of the rad. Care to post a picture?

Good questions by mopardude318.

If your rad prevents you from running a fan shroud or big fans, yes, get a good factory style radiator first.

There is a thread on here about champion radiators, they seem to have good reviews and they are pretty darn cheap and they fit like factory.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=149998

That thread..

If possible, get a 2 or 3 core aluminum radiator, good fan shroud, HD factory clutch fan. You can pull the fan shroud and clutch fan off a late 70s aspen, diplomat, volare (I think, someone else will have better info on shroud and fan source) . This set up will cool the hell out of your machine unless you have other major issues. If you get the shroud and fan from a car, you can get a new HD clutch for it for like 50 bucks.

A Mopar HD car clutch fan pulls about 5500 - 6000 cfm.

Secondly, not sure at what speed you are having cooling issues but if the nose of the car is high up, at speed it can be ramming air under the car which stalls air flow thru the radiator and works against the rad fan. A small air dam off the bottom of the core support will work wonders to help this situation.

You should be running a high flow 180 thermostat in the factory location and standard (non-underdrive) pulleys.

A stock water pump will most likely work just fine but there are high volume units out there I would imagine.

Usually there are a number of factors causing cooling issues as you probably know from your Pantera. All the details work in unison to cool the engine.

Happy holidays
 
I have a new Champion radiator--also new (with spring) lower hose--motor is fresh 340 with 4 speed and A/C, problem is not enough clearance between water pump snout and radiator to install factory fan. I've looked at every thread on every website and have come to the conclusion that I'll need a smaller radiator and go back to factory fan with shroud. Tried 2 or 3 different thermostats and even different size restrictors. Also have remote temp gauge in engine compartment that I verify with temp gun--they always match. Anyone want to trade a factory radiator for my new Champion radiator?
 

Attachments

  • duster radiator.jpg
    113.6 KB · Views: 275
I have a 360 with a champion 2 core alum rad 26in and a flex fan car never get up over 185 even on 95* days.No fan shroud it run to cool on cold days.
 
Member here has a HEMI in his Dart and runs a http://www.smithsradiator.com/mopar/abody/index.html in his car and from what he has told me he has never had any cooling issues. If I remember right he has used everything from a cheap plastic fan with a shroud to electric ones with out any issues.......I believe he has the 2 tube 1.25" version of it....
 
bahamasdivers said:
The radiator does not fit into the cutout in the radiator support and therefore is mounted on the back of the support and has only 2.5" clearance to water pump pulley.
Click to expand...

I still dont understand this part....Can you explain a little? Take a couple pics to show how your radiator is mounted to the car... 2.5" inches from the water pump pulley to the radiator's core seems really close, it shouldnt be...how thick is the radiator?

bahamasdivers said:
I have a new Champion radiator--also new (with spring) lower hose--motor is fresh 340 with 4 speed and A/C, problem is not enough clearance between water pump snout and radiator to install factory fan. I've looked at every thread on every website and have come to the conclusion that I'll need a smaller radiator and go back to factory fan with shroud. Tried 2 or 3 different thermostats and even different size restrictors. Also have remote temp gauge in engine compartment that I verify with temp gun--they always match. Anyone want to trade a factory radiator for my new Champion radiator?
Click to expand...

do you have a part number for that exact radiator so we can look it up and see what the deal is...

are you using the factory k-frame, is the engine in the original location?
 
Wow, I would not get rid of that sweet radiator setup.

How much distance from the radiator to your water pump pulley bolts?

Because I would try like heck to get a good elec fan setup in there.


For example a couple pretty haus-a-fied elec fan setups for a good price:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g4852/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16826/overview/


The second one (der-16826) comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some variants actually have the thru-flow flaps which assist during high speed driving to let more air thru rad while fans are not running. Appears that most configurations pull 4000 cfm which is pretty great.

I would definitely run at 180 hi flow thermostat rather than a restrictor.







bahamasdivers said:
I have a new Champion radiator--also new (with spring) lower hose--motor is fresh 340 with 4 speed and A/C, problem is not enough clearance between water pump snout and radiator to install factory fan. I've looked at every thread on every website and have come to the conclusion that I'll need a smaller radiator and go back to factory fan with shroud. Tried 2 or 3 different thermostats and even different size restrictors. Also have remote temp gauge in engine compartment that I verify with temp gun--they always match. Anyone want to trade a factory radiator for my new Champion radiator?
Click to expand...
 
Right now have a high flow 180 thermostat installed. I've tried a single 3000 CFM fan with offset shroud, dual 12" fans and the dual 16's--16's wouldn't fit due to water pump pulley clearance. I can't fit a fan/clutch assembly with only 2.5" clearance and could not get the system to fit due to 3.5" clearance needed for the fans. Engine and K-frame and trans are all original ---only thing I changed is the radiator and A/C compressor. I think the radiator is 2.5" thick--factory rad is 1.25 I think--I'll measure that tomorrow. 2.5" is the clearance between water pump pulley bolts and radiator. Link to Spal USA--these were the ones that didn't fit -already upgraded the alternator as these fans pull 65A and were the baddest of the fans they sell--I might give summit a call. I'll post pics of the shrouds I made for these fans tomorrow.
http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102082_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH
 
Hi bahamasdivers, so, your radiator will not sit flush to the radiator support backside?

Do you have your AC condenser on the back side of the radiator support also?

It is hard to understand why the radiator is so far back.

More pictures pls.
 
A/C condensor is on front of support--I'll get more pics today--been busy with the holidays
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top