Electric Water Pump

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440dartsport

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Anybody running an electric water pump on there big blocks? I have some guys telling me that they run hot on the street and other guys say not. It's a 42gpm Meziere pump that i'm looking at for a 650-700hp street motor.
 
I have seen Electric W/P's on street cars a lot. I'd like to hear from the "Been there done that" crowd." I see no reason why it can not be done and for a long time.
 
I think the issue most people have with it is longevity.
 
I have a good friend that has had a meziere electric water pump on his street driven Chevelle for 10 years now. But I was looking to hear from guys that have them on there big block mopars.
 
Beemers have electric water pumps, Dont new vettes? As NWA says..." Don't believe the hype..." Sure Electrics have failed, and I can tell you mechanicals fail too, impellers come right off the shafts, shafts leak, belts break, etc. probably said the same thing about electric fans too back then. One advantage of a electric is you can control its duty cycle, almost takes the place of a thermostat in the remote mount davis version, no stat, just a thermostatically governed speed control. You want a fast warm up time, just turn it off...My .02
 
I've had a Meziere Model WP 106S - 35gpm on my car for four years now. The car is street only (although not a daily driver) 650+ hp RB. Never had an issue with the pump and never had the motor overheat - even in 90+ degree weather. I run an orifice plate instead of a thermostat (can't use a T-stat without a bypass). I think I have a 3/4" plate in it now but really should change to a 1/2" or so for the winter months as the motor has a hard time warming up. The only downside to electric is not having the T-stat, and supposedly they don't last as long as a motor driven pump. I'll let you know if/when mine fails me.....
 
My brother runs one on his 750 hp hemi with 2 electric fans has no trouble, just my 2 cents.
 
That's interesting about the thermostat. I did not know that you shouldn't run one. I've never heard of that before. What is the reasoning for this?
 
I ran one on my 440 for years. I made a circuit that switched the pump and fan from the starter relay to a thermostat relay when the car was turned off. This cooled the heads and block down nicely.
 
I ran one on my 440 for years. I made a circuit that switched the pump and fan from the starter relay to a thermostat relay when the car was turned off. This cooled the heads and block down nicely.

Mine is wired to my ignition (for now) so it runs when the key is on. I also let it run for a few minutes after shutting the motor down to circulate coolant. I've been meaning to wire mine up to a direct manual switch not in the ignition.

That's interesting about the thermostat. I did not know that you shouldn't run one. I've never heard of that before. What is the reasoning for this?

The reason not to use a T-stat is that most electric pumps do not have a bypass around the T stat. Up until the T stat reaches temp and opens the pump is running dead headed and cavitating (kills the pump fast). Also once you shut down and the T stat closes (say at 165) the system will develop quite a bit of vacuum as it cools further causing the hoses to collapse (ask me how i know?)...
 
Other than cool down in the pits or you could run off the battery, disabling the alternator during a run, thus saving the engine from the heavy load from the alternator. But on a street car, you cannot do that.
I see no real advantage on a street car. You either drive a mechanical pump, which costs HP, or you drive an alternator, lose efficiency, run an electric motor, losing efficiency, and in some cases, use a separate belt / pulleys from the motor to the pump, losing even more efficiency.



What have you gained in the end?
 
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