electrical issues with the 67 fish

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Back again, I made some go0d progress today as well. I pulled the cluster and tested all 3 gauges with a battery as suggested. All three had positive movement. The pc board is in excellent condition as I had already cleaned it up. Seems like the voltage regulater in the Fuel Guage is bad? I also tested all the sending units with positive results. I also found no ground on the fuel sending unit so I will add a ground next week as I am replacing the sending unit with a new gas tank. So where do I go from here? I also noticed the right turn signal bulb doea not light up which is on the same part of the PC board the gauges are on. The signals and hazards now work since I replaced the flasher units on both. Thanks again and looking forward to your reply.
 
Sound good. You'll need another rallye fuel gauge with a good limiter in it or a substatute 5 volt power supply of some sort for the gauges you have.
 
Great Thanks again. What would you recommend for a sub power supply? Also any ideas on where to locat a fuel gauge. I checked ebay and google but know luck. Thanks Redfish your the man. I hope I can help you out some time:)
 
I have several fuel gauges here. 9 I think. All of them are currently in the same condition as yours. Some have bent needles and or scratched faces making them worse than yours. Atleast 4 of them came from ebay.
There are several different ways to fix yours including using the can type limiter found in most any other mopar. Someone will post links to those pages.
 
We have a member here that makes a device that replaces the original limiters. I`ll see if I can find who it is and post it.
 
You ought to be able to check the relay on the bench quite easily. It's only a coil which is really an electromagnet which closes a hi amperage switch. Apply 12 volts or so across the coil and listen for the click. Once it does click keep the voltage applied and take an ohmmeter to verify continuity across the switch to see that it closed.

Your problem is probably not in the relay but most likely at the bulkhead connection or the ignition switch. Those relays are really robust and you cannot hurt them with an undervoltage situation.
 
I went through the same thing as you discussed here. No guages and had to go through the old shop manual and test every ground, every wire. Extra ground at the fuel, the whole works...they should add and addendum to the shop manual..lol
 
RedFish said:
So...lets pull the instrument panel again and take it to the workbench. While its out for repairs, use a small nut and screw to attach the 2 amp gauge wires together and tape them.
Click to expand...

Why connect the amp gauge wires together?
 
Just so you can drive and start the car while the gauges are out. Otherwise no go. Thanks
 
Yes I did the drill as well. My problem has been solved thanks to Redfish and his DemonIVR voltage regulator. My VR was toast and the root of my problems. Redfish got me through the entire nightmare and my gauges are all working and now I am on to steering and supension. I highly recommend the DemonIVR as it seems most guys with this situation end up replacing the VR. Thanks
 
RedFish said:
Can low signal voltage damage a relay ? Probably, over time anyway.
I suggest you find out why the dash lights were dim as stated in your first post and why you later found less than 12 volts on that start signal wire.
Good luck
Click to expand...

I seriously doubt that too low a voltage would damage a relay. It would either work or not. It's just an electromagnet coil which activates a spst switch. The main thing that would damage a relay is too much current through the switch contacts. My lame Ford Explorer was real good for doing such in that it was never designed correctly!
 
A low voltage won't damage a relay, it just won't click the points closed at some low voltage level.

I'd help you but you're just too far away. You do however have my favorite car, that is a 67 Barracuda. My 67 ragtop is now on the road.
 
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