Electrical System Changes on 65 OEM Wiring

[earlymopar]

I have a 65' Series I Utiline pickup that has the OEM slant 6 wiring harness (untouched except I did the MadElectric alternator by-pass). I'm now in the process of swapping-in a poly 318 and while doing that i have a few non stock pieces I’m going to use which require changes to the OEM wiring harness.


Mainly, I have a 65 Amp Denso alternator (already mounted) and an Accel non-ECM distributor (#52301). I've searched a fair amount and have learned alot but, I'm not an electrical specialist. So, I'd like some ideas and opinions for the connections.


For the distributor, I know I need to remove the ballast resistor or otherwise by-pass it. From what I've read just disconnecting the leads that are on the ballast resister and connecting them together using a 14 gage wire "bridge" is an OK way to do this. My question is can one of my bridge connectors be a “piggy back” style so that I can tap into that location for my distributor red wire (switched 12v source)?


For the Denso (3-wire) alternator, I have seen a few schematics as to connections but I’d like to know the easiest location for keyed power for the “excite” lead. It sure seems I could use the same 12v source mentioned earlier for my distributor. Is this correct? The other 2 “Sense” leads seem to be easiest to connect at the starter solenoid.

The last issue is which of the OEM harness leads can be used for any of the above. The OEM alternator harness has an power lead that I can use but not sure about the 2 other leads in that bundle.

Thanks for your input.

• EM
  

 

[earlymopar]

38 Views and no replies? I guess I erred by saying it was a non A-body vehicle.

- EM

 

[67Dart273]

You should not need a piggy back if you are only going to swap in "what I guess" is an integrated ready-to-run distributor. Bypassing the resistor should make your original coil + wire give you the power you want

Whatever you do you want IGN1 and IGN2 to come together, as IGN1 (run) goes dead during cranking via the key. IGN2 is the original (usually brown) resistor bypass wire. Doing the change as you said (bypass resistor) will give you want you need there

HOWEVER make sure you check that terminal point and compare to battery voltage to make sure it does not suffer harness wiring drop

So far as the Denso "I don't know" you should do some research. The older Delcos for example, required either a warning lamp / resistor circuit OR a series diode in the excite lead to protect the diode trio

Also make certain your Denso is actually internally regulated.

 

[BillGrissom]

First, your 1965 won't have the "melted bulkhead connector" concern since it feeds the large ALT and BAT wires thru dedicated buss-bars, not the spade terminals, at least true in A & C bodies (and only 1963 & 65). But, your MAD Bypass still keeps the large charging current out of the cabin since corroded ammeter terminals can melt.

A "65A Denso alternator" is hardly defining, thus no answers. If "3 wire" means 2 field wires and the large output stud, then it sounds like a Mopar type (at least thru my 1996 2.4L and 1980-90's trucks). Those are wired the same as the 1970's square-back alternators, so read those many posts. You can use your 1965 Vreg with it if you ground one field terminal, or get a 1970's Vreg. In the 1990's, they moved the Vreg circuit into the PCM. When that fails, smart Dodge truck guys have just intercepted the wires and rigged an external Vreg, to avoid buying an expensive PCM.

To bypass the ballast resistor, I have used a single male-male spade connector, to not molest the factory wires. If you can't find one in the bubble packs, make a short jumper wire (12 awg) w/ 2 male spades.

 

[earlymopar]

You should not need a piggy back if you are only going to swap in "what I guess" is an integrated ready-to-run distributor. Bypassing the resistor should make your original coil + wire give you the power you want

Whatever you do you want IGN1 and IGN2 to come together, as IGN1 (run) goes dead during cranking via the key. IGN2 is the original (usually brown) resistor bypass wire. Doing the change as you said (bypass resistor) will give you want you need there

HOWEVER make sure you check that terminal point and compare to battery voltage to make sure it does not suffer harness wiring drop

So far as the Denso "I don't know" you should do some research. The older Delcos for example, required either a warning lamp / resistor circuit OR a series diode in the excite lead to protect the diode trio

Also make certain your Denso is actually internally regulated.

Thanks much for your reply. before reading this I came to the same realization that the existing coil + lead will provide what I need for the distributor.

As to the Denso, it is internally regulated and is one of the 89- Toyota pickup/FoRunner units. I have a power post and a 3-pin connector (2 sense and 1 excite lead). - EM

 

[earlymopar]

First, your 1965 won't have the "melted bulkhead connector" concern since it feeds the large ALT and BAT wires thru dedicated buss-bars, not the spade terminals, at least true in A & C bodies (and only 1963 & 65). But, your MAD Bypass still keeps the large charging current out of the cabin since corroded ammeter terminals can melt.

A "65A Denso alternator" is hardly defining, thus no answers. If "3 wire" means 2 field wires and the large output stud, then it sounds like a Mopar type (at least thru my 1996 2.4L and 1980-90's trucks). Those are wired the same as the 1970's square-back alternators, so read those many posts. You can use your 1965 Vreg with it if you ground one field terminal, or get a 1970's Vreg. In the 1990's, they moved the Vreg circuit into the PCM. When that fails, smart Dodge truck guys have just intercepted the wires and rigged an external Vreg, to avoid buying an expensive PCM.

To bypass the ballast resistor, I have used a single male-male spade connector, to not molest the factory wires. If you can't find one in the bubble packs, make a short jumper wire (12 awg) w/ 2 male spades.

Yes, by "3-wire" I meant the leads other than the main power post (2 sense and 1 excite lead). So by your definition it is a 4-wire including the 12v stud. This is an 89 and up Toyota pickup model.

 

[skykeith]

The alternator does not have 2 sense wires. The one labeled L is for the warning light, if you connect it to power without a light in the circuit, something will smoke. If you don't want a warning light, just leave it unhooked.