Electronic ignition upgrade

Electrical and Ignition

  1. Johnny Dart

    Johnny Dart Well-Known Member

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  2. halifaxhops

    halifaxhops It's going to get stupid around here! FABO Gold Member

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    All I use are nos or old store stock totally agree the new ones suck and along with the wear the spring tension sucks usually come in around 15 inlb should be 18-22 or you get point float. Condensers also seem to have a high fail rate when I test them with heat applied same thing I use NOS or OSS.
     
  3. halifaxhops

    halifaxhops It's going to get stupid around here! FABO Gold Member

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    I buy all the old store stock I can find the new points do suck and the capacitors are also junk when they get hot. Ever need nos delco have a ton of them.
     
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    • cuda66273

      cuda66273 Well-Known Member

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      You're not limiting the top or the bottom..... you're limiting the total degrees of mechanical advance so your creating a window you set the bottom by turning the distributor, the top is the total amount of mechanical advance.

      So if you want 2* initial and 20 total you would use the 18* slot, don't know of any engine that can run on 2*, most like 16-34 to we have that option in the plate being 0-10-12-14-16-18
       
    • Mattax

      Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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      The position of the slot effects the spring force resisting the weight. Within reason, further out acts more directly. This is a factor in how the curve is shaped. On hot rod, or desmogged vehicle, its more important to get the top - mid to high rpm shape. Besides, the initial can be adjusted with the spring perch.
       
    • cuda66273

      cuda66273 Well-Known Member

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      What are you trying to do? What curve are you looking for?
      Initial is set by turning the distributor, the total is controlled by the length of the slot, the curve is set by using various spring combinations and fine tuned with either the rotating Mopar spring anchor pin or on the imported distributors you bend the anchor tab.
      I want to know if we could improve our plate but none of these things your trying to say may any sense at all.
      Tell me what curve your looking for and I'll tell you how to get there?
       
    • Mattax

      Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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      Looking for a long slow top of the curve.
      The further the weight moves out, the more the spring force is perpindicular to the weight's moment arm.
      Like you I thought moving the perch and using the heaviest secondary springs available would do the trick.
       
    • 67Dart273

      67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      You may be looking for something "you can't have." Weird curves were typically done using two different springs, one of which had a long "slack" to allow movement controlled by the weaker spring, then the "slack" would take up and the heavier spring would be in effect. The fact of the matter is, this is 100 year old technology.
       
    • Mattax

      Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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      Me? its not a weird curve at all. Its a normal curve with a Chrysler. When the top of the slot is shortened, the top of the curve is sliced off. People think "all in" hitting the stop of the slot at 2000 or 2400 is OK. Well its 'OK' but its not good. The Chrysler built DC/MP distributors got that right. Timing at idle was lower priority for them, and that's where they should be adjusted if the engine needs. Shorten the bottom of the slots does what we actually want to do - slicing off the bottom of the curve. Its very similar to what was done with timing for CAP, but in reverse.
       
    • desy500

      desy500 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Last edited: Mar 5, 2019
    • DartGTDan

      DartGTDan '71 Dart GT Fan

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      • barbee6043

        barbee6043 barbee 6043 FABO Gold Member

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        Arguing this topic is like arguing what brand motor oil to use, OR what size women's
        breast work the goodest!???? ha
         
      • Mattax

        Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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        LOL. I suppose that explains some of the posts.
         
      • barbee6043

        barbee6043 barbee 6043 FABO Gold Member

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        Yes! The PO is dealing with a slant that has NO real power, so depending on how much he drives, basically it is just what is the least trouble and cost maybe, to have!!
         
      • desy500

        desy500 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Yes just looking to change over for better all around , not more speed
         
      • Mattax

        Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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        The timing (when the spark fires relative to rpm, load, and mixture) is the most important thing. Compared to that, how it is triggered, and the alterations of the spark energy are minor and will not make up for less than ideal timing. On a hot rodded or race engine with poor idle and high rpm demands (4000 rpm and up) there's a bit more to be gained from ignition systems than stock engine, especially a non smogged one.
         
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        • fjr

          fjr Well-Known Member

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          The simplest and best upgrade from points to electronic ignition is the HEI upgrade. No need for expensive EI conversion kits and you can source pretty much everything you need from junkyard parts. I originally upgraded from points to mopar EI and last year upgraded to HEI. The HEI system allows me to run leaner cruising fuel mixtures due to its much hotter spark. I got my relays from Daniel Stern Lighting and Dan is great to deal with. I'm using the DC performance EI distributor (single red spring) but any EI distributor bolts in.

          See HEI Ignition Upgrade
           
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