Electronic ignition upgrade

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cuda66273 said:
quote "
Dudes....What the heck ?
Dons kit, Dons disk, FBO advance limiter plate, FBO plates.....They are for a V8 !!!!!!!!!!!!
The original poster has a Slant Six !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why are you shoving V8 info down his throat, when he has a 6 cylinder ?Quote
Really that's news to me we've been putting then in /6 distributors for 15 years.

Well thats news to me. I gave you a call 5 or 6 years ago, to talk to you about putting a slant six electronic ignition together. As soon as you heard slant six, you sounded like you couldnt be bothered, and didnt give me the time of day. Not sure why you didnt offer it then ?
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cuda66273 said:
I would love to have you in my shop and argue that statement with you, are you still waiting for them to perfect the color TV before you abandon your old round screen black and white one?
You can't even buy good points anymore they're all Made in China and the contacts are now plated about .002 thick not solid tungsten any longer, so where do you even buy good points sets? For every .001 of wear you will retard timing by 1* they last about 1500 miles and they're done. Ever measured the output under load on a points system?
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All I use are nos or old store stock totally agree the new ones suck and along with the wear the spring tension sucks usually come in around 15 inlb should be 18-22 or you get point float. Condensers also seem to have a high fail rate when I test them with heat applied same thing I use NOS or OSS.
 
cuda66273 said:
I would love to have you in my shop and argue that statement with you, are you still waiting for them to perfect the color TV before you abandon your old round screen black and white one?
You can't even buy good points anymore they're all Made in China and the contacts are now plated about .002 thick not solid tungsten any longer, so where do you even buy good points sets? For every .001 of wear you will retard timing by 1* they last about 1500 miles and they're done. Ever measured the output under load on a points system?
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I buy all the old store stock I can find the new points do suck and the capacitors are also junk when they get hot. Ever need nos delco have a ton of them.
 
Mattax said:
Better: As in a version to limit the bottom of the curve instead of the top.
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You're not limiting the top or the bottom..... you're limiting the total degrees of mechanical advance so your creating a window you set the bottom by turning the distributor, the top is the total amount of mechanical advance.

So if you want 2* initial and 20 total you would use the 18* slot, don't know of any engine that can run on 2*, most like 16-34 to we have that option in the plate being 0-10-12-14-16-18
 
cuda66273 said:
You're not limiting the top or the bottom..... you're limiting the total degrees of mechanical advance so your creating a window you set the bottom by turning the distributor, the top is the total amount of mechanical advance.

So if you want 2* initial and 20 total you would use the 18* slot, don't know of any engine that can run on 2*, most like 16-34 to we have that option in the plate being 0-10-12-14-16-18
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The position of the slot effects the spring force resisting the weight. Within reason, further out acts more directly. This is a factor in how the curve is shaped. On hot rod, or desmogged vehicle, its more important to get the top - mid to high rpm shape. Besides, the initial can be adjusted with the spring perch.
 
What are you trying to do? What curve are you looking for?
Initial is set by turning the distributor, the total is controlled by the length of the slot, the curve is set by using various spring combinations and fine tuned with either the rotating Mopar spring anchor pin or on the imported distributors you bend the anchor tab.
I want to know if we could improve our plate but none of these things your trying to say may any sense at all.
Tell me what curve your looking for and I'll tell you how to get there?
 
Looking for a long slow top of the curve.
The further the weight moves out, the more the spring force is perpindicular to the weight's moment arm.
Like you I thought moving the perch and using the heaviest secondary springs available would do the trick.
 
You may be looking for something "you can't have." Weird curves were typically done using two different springs, one of which had a long "slack" to allow movement controlled by the weaker spring, then the "slack" would take up and the heavier spring would be in effect. The fact of the matter is, this is 100 year old technology.
 
Me? its not a weird curve at all. Its a normal curve with a Chrysler. When the top of the slot is shortened, the top of the curve is sliced off. People think "all in" hitting the stop of the slot at 2000 or 2400 is OK. Well its 'OK' but its not good. The Chrysler built DC/MP distributors got that right. Timing at idle was lower priority for them, and that's where they should be adjusted if the engine needs. Shorten the bottom of the slots does what we actually want to do - slicing off the bottom of the curve. Its very similar to what was done with timing for CAP, but in reverse.
 
cuda66273 said:
quote "
Dudes....What the heck ?
Dons kit, Dons disk, FBO advance limiter plate, FBO plates.....They are for a V8 !!!!!!!!!!!!
The original poster has a Slant Six !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why are you shoving V8 info down his throat, when he has a 6 cylinder ?Quote
Really that's news to me we've been putting then in /6 distributors for 15 years




" So I have a 65 225 that I want to change over to electronic , not looking to race , just want reliability .PO had engine rebuilt .40 over , mild cam , and added 2 - holly 1920 set up . What would you recommend ? "


Quote: "I do like the idea of the FBO plates but it s only drawback is it cannot give you more advance than what the cam plate in there has now."

This statement has me really confused? What timing numbers are you trying to achieve? I'll tell you how to get it.
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barbee6043 said:
Yes! The PO is dealing with a slant that has NO real power, so depending on how much he drives, basically it is just what is the least trouble and cost maybe, to have!!
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Yes just looking to change over for better all around , not more speed
 
The timing (when the spark fires relative to rpm, load, and mixture) is the most important thing. Compared to that, how it is triggered, and the alterations of the spark energy are minor and will not make up for less than ideal timing. On a hot rodded or race engine with poor idle and high rpm demands (4000 rpm and up) there's a bit more to be gained from ignition systems than stock engine, especially a non smogged one.
 
The simplest and best upgrade from points to electronic ignition is the HEI upgrade. No need for expensive EI conversion kits and you can source pretty much everything you need from junkyard parts. I originally upgraded from points to mopar EI and last year upgraded to HEI. The HEI system allows me to run leaner cruising fuel mixtures due to its much hotter spark. I got my relays from Daniel Stern Lighting and Dan is great to deal with. I'm using the DC performance EI distributor (single red spring) but any EI distributor bolts in.

See HEI Ignition Upgrade
 
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