emission trouble

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416duster

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I can't seem to get my hydrocarbons down, I have tried plugs, timing, and carb adjustments. Does anybody have any other ideas on how to get this thing to pass
 
416 stroker, 750 demon, electronic ignition, vacuum advance, edelbrock aluminum heads, not sure on cam sizE, motor was built a few years ago but never on the road
 
This is one of those, shot in the dark,answers,for one of those no detail,Im in the dark questions.
Put a multispark on it,and shorten up your centrifugal timing to about16 to 14 degrees.Then give it as much vacuum timing as you can find and pour it to her as fast as she will take it without detonating.Youve got to start the fire early,and burn up every last molecule of fuel. When it comes out the pipe, its got to be dead,dead,dead.
Run her hot.Once you get the timing up, she will want to run a little cooler.Do whatever it takes to get the temperature up,yet,make her survive. But put some heat into her.No electric fans. No viscous clutch.No electric water pump.If you have that stuff(and IMO a streeter shouldnt) you can put it back on after you pass.You will need a direct drive OEM type fan of large diameter and at least 5 or 6 blades with the curled ends, or a steel, 7-blade fan,on a Ford, or Ford type THERMOSTATIC clutch.
Oh yeah, once the timing gets right and the temp comes up,go back and fix the carb.

Thats my shot
 
what are the HC numbers now? what are the test requirements? if the cam has too much overlap it is a problem. not knowing the cam, how much vacuum u got? use a hotter sparkplug and thermostat, set the float level low
 
Hydrocarbons are over 1400 ppm, limit is 600. Vacuum is 17, number 9 plug, 180 thermostat. I never tried adjusting the float, I played with the mixture screws and timing. Right now I set the timing at 35 at 2500rpm
 
Does your state have Historic Plates / Registration? That would get you out of emission testing, at least in NJ it does.
 
They do but only for stock or close to stock cars, even if you get that in Delaware it has to pass inspection the first time. I'm sure there's loop hole but I don't know anybody
 
vacuum of 17 is good. at what rpm is test, idle? raise the idle, if the floats are high its a problem. a champion 9 is too cold for emission test, and the 180 therm is cold, what is your water temp at test? what is timing at test rpm?
 
back when we had emissions here , I would pull in the parking lot , pop the hood and run the mixture screws almost all the way in until it would barely run in gear, let em test it and then run em back out before I left. I also remember using a 4 to 2 barrel adapter and running a 2 barrel right before emissions day. I don't recall ever failing one. thank god its obsolete now.
 
did you change the oil ,unburned fuel in the oil can be pulled into the pcv and burns like fuel. I used to remove pcv valve and adjust the carb to get some through. also with your timming if you retard the timming the hc goes down but then the co goes up you got to find the balance between the two.
 
Idle test was at 1000 rpm with a water temp of 160 and timing at 35 At idle. After inspection I adjusted the timing at 2500 rpm and started using the vacuum advance. Still new to the tuning aspect of this car
 
Yes, oil was changed last weekend. Tried everything I could think of. Had the same problem last year and never got it to pass.
 
lower floats, hotter plugs for the test, 160 is way cold-hotter thermostat, 35* advance at idle way too much. if the test is done at 1000 rpm why adjust timing at 2500
 
Was the CO good? Was it safe by a bunch.

High HC on those test is usually too much advance and a lean mixture. Dial back the timing a ton and fatten it up. If CO will usually increase and HC decrease.
 
Marcohotrod said:
lower floats, hotter plugs for the test, 160 is way cold-hotter thermostat, 35* advance at idle way too much. if the test is done at 1000 rpm why adjust timing at 2500
Click to expand...

crackedback said:
Was the CO good? Was it safe by a bunch.

High HC on those test is usually too much advance and a lean mixture. Dial back the timing a ton and fatten it up. If CO will usually increase and HC decrease.
Click to expand...

Yup. Look at what was done in 69--early 70's. Hot hot HOT thermostat, carb inlet heat, retarded timing and delayed vacuum advance. Long slow advance curve. Set carb on "lean" side
 
get the car low on fuel...put 2 gallons of gas..and 2 gallons of e85....run it long enough that the mixture is in the carb....test it....and then go fill the car up with gas to dilute the mixture....

the e85 will burn clean and cool....and cut the emissions...

the get my old 77 motorhome and 94 pickup with 300k miles on it to pass that way every year.
 
When we had emissions testing here I would dial the initial timing down to below 0 on a cammed up 440 with a 850 holley. It would get hotter than normal and drive like crap but it would pass. Vacuum advance shouldn't matter as long as its not drawing at idle. Good luck.
 
67Dart273 said:
Yup. Look at what was done in 69--early 70's. Hot hot HOT thermostat, carb inlet heat, retarded timing and delayed vacuum advance. Long slow advance curve. Set carb on "lean" side
Click to expand...

LOL. And boy did that make our mopars run! O wait, IT SUCKED!! Just curious what year Mopar you working on?
 
This MAY come down to extreme measures. Not familiar with your cam. You may have to yank the cam out, toss a stocker in there, and finda smogger carb.

I think it's preposterous that your state checks vehicles that old

AZ is worse. They require a test of 67 cars, which, unless they were built and sold for CA in 66-67, NEVER HAD any engine emissions controls

Might be easier to pick up a used "good shape" stock 318 and swap it in there for the test, LOL
 
67Dart273 said:
This MAY come down to extreme measures. Not familiar with your cam. You may have to yank the cam out, toss a stocker in there, and finda smogger carb.

I think it's preposterous that your state checks vehicles that old

AZ is worse. They require a test of 67 cars, which, unless they were built and sold for CA in 66-67, NEVER HAD any engine emissions controls

Might be easier to pick up a used "good shape" stock 318 and swap it in there for the test, LOL
Click to expand...

Arizona allows a collector car to be exempt. Just need the right insurance. FYI:cheers:MT
 
Mopar Tim said:
Arizona allows a collector car to be exempt. Just need the right insurance. FYI:cheers:MT
Click to expand...

But? What are the "terms" of "collector." In some states various antique / collector registrations have mileage and useage limitations. I want to drive my car, and not in a parade

In ID it might be just as bad, if you are in "the two" counties. There are (or were) two counties in this state that require emissions, and from what I've found, nearly as bad. Completely stupid when you consider

the low number of these cars on the road

the total mileage they are driven

and........the fact that they are not "usually" 100K mile "smokers"
 
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