Emissions on my Slant

[calicowilly13]

Hello all. I’m working on my first 1970s Mopar A body. I’ve noticed while going through the engine bay that half of the emissions lines are not hooked up. Only one line to the canister at the front of the engine bay, a yellow sensor with 2 vacuum ports in the valve cover isn’t hooked up, etc. Wanted to know if I needed these items connected or if they can be removed from the car entirely. It’s a 1976 Scamp with the 225 slant. Here are a few pictures of what I’ve noticed…pardon the mess in the engine bay, I’ve been prepping to pull the engine for a rebuild.

 

[67Dart273]

You need a service manual. Unfortunately, nothing newer than 73 is available "free" at MyMopar.com

You will have to either round up an old original, a paper reprint, or one of the outfits selling digitized ones.

However, there should at least (unless obliterated, repainted, removed) be an underhood sticker with the hose diagram

One VERY important tube/ connection/ hose you want to deal with is the one coming from the fuel tank, to the engine bay, WHICH IS THE tank VENT. Identify it, and if you don't get the vacuum / etc reconnected, make certain that that tube is "high" (not bent down) and open in the engine bay

 

[calicowilly13]

You need a service manual. Unfortunately, nothing newer than 73 is available "free" at MyMopar.com

You will have to either round up an old original, a paper reprint, or one of the outfits selling digitized ones.

However, there should at least (unless obliterated, repainted, removed) be an underhood sticker with the hose diagram

One VERY important tube/ connection/ hose you want to deal with is the one coming from the fuel tank, to the engine bay, WHICH IS THE tank VENT. Identify it, and if you don't get the vacuum / etc reconnected, make certain that that tube is "high" (not bent down) and open in the engine bay

The hose diagram sticker is still there. I have a Haynes Manual but will look into getting an actual service manual

 

[Dana67Dart]

If your state requires smog equipment you will need that stuff hooked up to pass smog.

If your state does not require smog tests then no harm in removing and capping everything smog related.

You might need to recurve the distributer to have better performance as it was originally designed to work with the smog equipment hooked up.

 

[calicowilly13]

If your state requires smog equipment you will need that stuff hooked up to pass smog.

If your state does not require smog tests then no harm in removing and capping everything smog related.

You might need to recurve the distributer to have better performance as it was originally designed to work with the smog equipment hooked up.

Thanks dude. No Smog stuff here…can you go a little more in depth on recurve of distributor? I’m not sure what that means. I have basic mechanic knowledge lol

 

[Dana67Dart]

The distributer has to advance mechanisms.

One is the mechanical advance, it advances the engine spark timing as the engine rpm increases.

The other is vacuume advance, the vacuume advance is based on engine load.

When the throttle blades are closed at idle, there is no vacuume and no advance. As the blades open there is more vacuume and the advance increases.




Also as the load on the engine increases, think going up a long hill, the vacuume produced is different and the advance changed to accommodate that.

 

[townsend]

This is an example of the 1976 two volume set of Chrysler Plymouth Dodge factory service manuals you need.
Other 2 volume sets are also found on eBay.

1976 Chrysler Plymouth Dodge Chassis-Body & Electrical Service Manuals | eBay

This is a pretty nice preowned 1976 Chrysler Plymouth Dodge Chassis-Body Service Manual 81-070-0151 & 1976 Chrysler Plymouth Dodge Electrical Service Manual 81-070-6152. There is at least one page in one book that has minimal highlighting (Pictured) but that is the only one that I can find.

www.ebay.com

 

[niceolddart]

That last picture (With the two fingers in it) is a vacuum port, most likely for the brake booster, if it has power brakes, & it probably does if it's a 1976. It will run very poorly if at all, if it's left open because it would be huge vacuum leak. Get a good service manual first off, they are a gold mine of info. Haynes manuals aren't very good, trust me.

 

[halfafish]

Faxon Auto Literature has the CD and printed version of the sèrvice manual for your car.

 

[MV8]

Currently, it looks like you are venting gas tank vapor to the engine compartment near the ignition. I expect this is not the original canister. The three port canister does not use a thermo switch (yellow) to ensure it only purges when warm. There should be a restrictor somewhere in the canister purge line to the base of the carb. Something to plug the line (like a one inch long piece of 5/16" rod) then drilled .030" or so should suffice to purge the canister and keep pellets out of the carb. The purging function is a vacuum leak. The bowl vent can be capped at the canister if you don't have a bowl vent port on the carb. If liquid fuel (not vapor) ever reaches the canister, it will solidify the carbon pellets and they will need to be replaced. It would need to be cut open to do that or just buy a new canister.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Hello all. I’m working on my first 1970s Mopar A body. I’ve noticed while going through the engine bay that half of the emissions lines are not hooked up. Only one line to the canister at the front of the engine bay, a yellow sensor with 2 vacuum ports in the valve cover isn’t hooked up, etc. Wanted to know if I needed these items connected or if they can be removed from the car entirely. It’s a 1976 Scamp with the 225 slant. Here are a few pictures of what I’ve noticed…pardon the mess in the engine bay, I’ve been prepping to pull the engine for a rebuild.

View attachment 1716335208

View attachment 1716335209

View attachment 1716335210

Sent you a pm sir.

 

[townsend]

The charcoal canister in your photo is correct for your car.
73 -76 used the same canister.
Part number can be found stamped on the beveled rim just below the top of the canister #3577595

 

[kesteb]

And they are not being reproduced and how would you check to see if they actually worked. I hooked the one up in my '74 Duster, but I doubt it is doing anything useful after 50 years.