EMPTY TERMINAL BOTTOM OF 67 CUDA HEADLIGHT SWITCH

[soonercruiser]

So, I am about to finish reinstalling the new dash Bezel on my 1967 Plymouth Barracuda.
I have become very aware that Chrysler engineers were probbaly paid to shorten every cable and wire that they could behind the dash in order to save money.
THAT...is the only thing that makes the job difficult and a PITA! Having watched a historic thread on FABO, the actual work would be no big deal otherwise.

**HOWERVER - ONE LAST CHALLENGE for me is a missing or loose wire to the connector at the bottom of the headlight switch.
I know that I removed a wire with spade connector from that blade; and I believe that it was a yellow wire.
During my work removing the old Dash Bezel, a short yellow with spade connector on each end fell from behind the dash. I was so occupied at that time that I paid no attention and threw it aside.
(Of course, now, that I am looking for it I cannot seem to find it!)

I've looked at my blown up wiring diagram and do not see that connection on the schematic. And, I've looked on the web.
I did find a 2019 thread on this forum that would lead me to believe that it would have been a ground for the headlight switch; but was not actually used in the 1967 model.
(Again probably a cost saving, when there are plenty of grounds on the dash bezel and instrument cluster already.)
67 Barracuda headlight switch wiring?

** I'd be satisfied to just know if it is a ground. As, I would not take a chance by connecting it to something else with the spade connector.
However, there is a connection block below the headlight switch that has unoccupied blade connectors for a spade.
To be safe, if that headlight switch spade is a ground, I would just create another ground to the body there....rather than take a chance.

While I was in there behind the dash, there were a lot of other small things I found to do: lube up the wiper arms; repair the rod that holds the vent control wire coil on the HVAC switches (tip was broken and control wire was popping off); reconnect the air tube to the dash vent; freshen up all the connectors that I dealt with.
BTW - I did see that there is only a air tube running to the dash vent on the driver's side - not one on the passenger side.
And I assume that the open tube is see under the dash on the passenger side is a floor heating vent.

Here is a picture of that block below the headlight switch area.

 

[4spdragtop]

No idea what you're arrow is pointing at. Get the factory schematic out and trace it out.

 

[Cuda Al]

Ok, the block below the headlight switch is the fuse block?
A yellow wire on the dash is either part of the dome light circuit or the starter wire (maybe others).
Any ground wires (very very few) are typically black with a ring terminal and screwed to sheet metal.
The fuse block has a couple terminals on the backside, one is hot all the time, the other is on the key (accessory).


Alan

 

[Kendog 170]

I don't know your year wiring but yellow is usually HOT as said maybe dome light, door switch, Map light, wire to headlight switch. IDK just a suggestion.

 

[soonercruiser]

No idea what you're arrow is pointing at. Get the factory schematic out and trace it out.

Unfortunately, factory schematic is no help.
I even have the colored blown up version.

 

[soonercruiser]

I don't know your year wiring but yellow is usually HOT as said maybe dome light, door switch, Map light, wire to headlight switch. IDK just a suggestion.

No, I'm pretty sure it was the wire I disconnected from the bottom of the headlight switch.
So, someone just used a yellow wire, because that is what color wire they had.

 

[soonercruiser]

Ok, the block below the headlight switch is the fuse block?
A yellow wire on the dash is either part of the dome light circuit or the starter wire (maybe others).
Any ground wires (very very few) are typically black with a ring terminal and screwed to sheet metal.
The fuse block has a couple terminals on the backside, one is hot all the time, the other is on the key (accessory).


Alan

Yup!
You are correct! It is the fuse block.
I keep thinking in a single dimension when I am looking from above; instead of looking from below to get perspective.
From that historical thread that I posted, I'm certain that is was just a hanging loose ground wire for the headlight switch.
Thus, when I discoonected it from the headlight switch and worked a while behind the bezel, That's why it eventually fell below the dash.

Just for clarity sake, here again is the link to that historical thread....
67 Barracuda headlight switch wiring?

 

[Cuda Al]

Unfortunately, factory schematic is no help.
I even have the colored blown up version.

If you are using the schematic downloaded from MyMopar it is NOT factory and is known to have errors.
The best ones are those in the Factory Service Manual, the schematics for the Barracuda are in the Factory Service Manual Bulletin/Supplement.


Alan

 

[4spdragtop]

I believe I emailed the op the supplement a while back. A factory schematic is the answer.
I can email again if he wants, Mattax sent me the good copy a few years back.

 

[4spdragtop]

Heres pic of HL switch from factory 67 barracuda schematic/supplement. I enlarged and laminated mine.

 

[soonercruiser]

I believe I emailed the op the supplement a while back. A factory schematic is the answer.
I can email again if he wants, Mattax sent me the good copy a few years back.

Yes, I have the factory Schematic myself, large, in color and laminated!
But, it does not show the ground blade on the headlight switch.
Does not!

 

[soonercruiser]

I believe I emailed the op the supplement a while back. A factory schematic is the answer.
I can email again if he wants, Mattax sent me the good copy a few years back.

NO!
Even the factory schematic does not show a ground prong on the headlight switch.
Since Chrysler stopped putting a wire there, I think they chose to leave it off the schematic.
It was a supplemental cluster ground in the earlier models.
See the Forum thread link that I posted twice.

 

[4spdragtop]

Show pic of your switch. The newer switches have an extra tab that was added in recent years. It's an added ground. You can see it on the *** end in this pic. Pic is a general reference pic.

 

[soonercruiser]

Show pic of your switch. The newer switches have an extra tab that was added in recent years. It's an added ground. You can see it on the *** end in this pic. Pic is a general reference pic.

View attachment 1716241196

Even my "old switch" has that ground spade.
I bought a new switch that looks the same, because I didn't feel that the dimming function was working well.
But even after a hour of playing with the knob and prong button while watching TV, I never could get the knob in.
So just went back to the old switch.
(ANYONE NEED A HEADLIGHT SWITCH???)

 

[Dave999]

if the switch bolts to a metal dash
you don't need the ground tab, because it grounds through the screw in metal collar and the spiked metal tab that stops the switch body turning in the dash hole

this, i think you have acknowledged

if the switch bolts into a plastic insert in a dash pod, that has no metal backing or a metal backing that does not cover a mounting screw hole and hence, no ground....!
run a wire from that that ground tab to a screw in the back of the dash

switch is multi use for plain jane metal dash base model, and fancy pants top of the range cars with a dash that looks like a jumbo jet

if you have any other extra connectors on your switch over and above the number of wires you have, or places in the special connector block, then you have the wrong switch

and the same if you have a lack of connectors on the switch...
subtle differences of the few connectors in the middle of the switch between models regarding what is switched to 12 volt and what is switched to ground
wrong switch there will be something that doesn't work

and there are numerous versions of this switch, they were still in use in 90s jeeps
and they are not all the same you need a year and trim level appropriate version.

the depth of the switch also differs between models of switch this is a function of the metal bracket and the size of the variable resistor set up for the light dimmer. if you are a bit short in the shaft of your knob it can't reach the socket in the dark depths of the switch and will not engage. if your knob shaft is too long the knob sticks out too far all of the time .
However it engages perfectly well, and you will have to press on the little button, to get it out again, but it looks kinda wrong..



You need a switch with the right no. and position of connectors regardless of if it has the earth tab or not

the fuse box will always, unless your car has every option going, have a few connectors on the back or even a fuse space that is not used. this shouldn't worry you
the manual for your car will have a fuse box diagram labelling up fuse size and the wires

fuse box is split into 2, hot (12 v) all the time, and hot when key in any position other than off (acc.,run,start)

the connectors on the back will be split into 2. with the always on 12 volt wire or a switched 12 volt wire as input, at their respective parts.

the other side of the fuse box has a single connector for each fuse, some may have a piggyback double wire onto that single connector but thats still all OK
and or course any unoccupied fuse bay will have no wire to its connector

in many cases there will be one unused fuse holder it may have a fuse in it.. handy place to keep a spare, but it won't have a wire from it to anything.

Most A bodies have an outlet that splits into 2 via a plastic manifold or 2 outlets on the heater box to cover 2 vents in the dash, having 1 disconnected just means the air takes that path rendering the vent that is connected ineffective at demisting the screen

a place that does piped-air heating for mobile homes and caravans will have a foil and paper tube in the correct diameter for you to fix up the other vent. cut to an, a-bit-too-long, length, with razor sharp craft knife and it should stay pressed onto the outlet and the back of the vent, of its own accord

Dave

 

[soonercruiser]

Finished up today; a;though there are alway other small problem encountered or created by what you just fixed.
(Iwill not elaborate on them at this time.)

Got the dash all put back together today.
For me, the speedo cable was easy to remove with the instrument cluster and bezel just leaning backwards.
But reinstalling it was a different story, as the cable length was pretty skimpy, and I couldn't get both hands in there to both pull hard enough on the cabble, and twist the connector at the same time.
So, I just reinstalled the bezel and dash first.
Actually getting under the dash and reinstalling the cable was no big deal. Plenty of hand room.
Then, I tidied up all the hanging wires under the dash - the previous owner had installed aftermarket oil pressure and engine temp gauges, and left a few loose end unused wires with only masking tape on the bare ends.

I had already tested all the switches and controls last night, so all I had to do before reinstalling the driver's seat was to test drive to be sure the speedo was working.....while sitting on a short bathroom stool.

OK, I will mention one complaint.
Every thing I have done on the Barracuda seems to be 1 step forward; and 2 steps backwards finding other problems.
So, as I am getting out from under the dash replacing the speedo cable, my shhoulder hits the locking lever on the driver's side air vent, and breaks off the handle from the lever. Just another small thing to fix!

BUT, I AM DONE! No ground necessary for the headlight switch.