Engine build storage questions

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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Hi all, I was talking with another member here who is in a similar climate as myself in Ontario.
We're both in the middle of an engine build, altho mine has "stalled" but I plan on getting back to it over the winter.
Should there be any concern of humidity/moisture/condensation/rust throughout winter and spring?
My garage can be heated, but I dont run heat in it 24/7. I would turn it on prior to going out to shop and turning off after a few hours or so.
Thanks
 
You can spray it with WD-40, throw a few handfuls of desiccant bags (you can buy on E bay) in a lawn sized trash bag, and tie up the end.
 
I would use this

ADA3F8B9-6E3C-4BAC-B382-921D207E12FC.jpeg
 
Best rust inhibitors I have found in the retail setting is lps rust inhibitor. Its kinda waxy but not as thick as cosmoline. Not sure it would be good for short term (weekly) but if its going to sit for extended periods of time, good stuff.
 
I’ve used the stabil in my snowblower, but in the cylinder and I don’t know what it looks like or even how good it work cause I can’t see it.
 
Thanks guys, I actually have a couple desiccant bags(Damprid) that I use for storing the boat. So I'll see if they offer smaller packs of them.
I did spray the cylinders with Fluidfilm and then wiped clean when I installed pistons. I plan to disassemble again and hopefully complete the build by spring.
toolmanmike said:
You can spray it with WD-40, throw a few handfuls of desiccant bags (you can buy on E bay) in a lawn sized trash bag, and tie up the end.
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Heywodja said:
I would use this

View attachment 1716010060
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ch1ll said:
Best rust inhibitors I have found in the retail setting is lps rust inhibitor. Its kinda waxy but not as thick as cosmoline. Not sure it would be good for short term (weekly) but if its going to sit for extended periods of time, good stuff.
Click to expand...
 
I've always used WD-40 as a cleaner not as a lubricant. It dries... Something like that I usually use BP blaster penetrating oil it has a tendency to stay on there... But you're real concerns are mostly for the machine surfaces...
 
Move the wife to the garage and put the engine in the bedroom. lol
or you can saturate all surfaces with PB and bag it.
I like the first option, don't tell my wife. lol
 
If anyone moves to the shop, it's me! I'm pretty confident I can have a comfy sleep in the back seat of cuda.
With my work schedule, the engine may sit for a week or 2 before I'm able to get at it again. The desiccant bags may be the best bet while keeping bare steel coated and bag it.
fishmens67 said:
Move the wife to the garage and put the engine in the bedroom. lol
or you can saturate all surfaces with PB and bag it.
I like the first option, don't tell my wife. lol
Click to expand...
 
My wife is way too used to me bringing car parts into the house. She's always supportive and confident that they will move back out in a relatively timely manner. The only time she drew the line was when I put the harmonic balancer in with the Thanksgiving day Turkey... Or at least try too... :lol:
 
j par said:
My wife is way too used to me bringing car parts into the house. She's always supportive and confident that they will move back out in a relatively timely manner. The only time she drew the line was when I put the harmonic balancer in with the Thanksgiving day Turkey... Or at least try too... :lol:
Click to expand...
A little heat on those balancers really makes them go on easy
 
4spdragtop said:
Hi all, I was talking with another member here who is in a similar climate as myself in Ontario.
We're both in the middle of an engine build, altho mine has "stalled" but I plan on getting back to it over the winter.
Should there be any concern of humidity/moisture/condensation/rust throughout winter and spring?
My garage can be heated, but I dont run heat in it 24/7. I would turn it on prior to going out to shop and turning off after a few hours or so.
Thanks
Click to expand...
I got my engine back from the machine shop in the dead of winter 2 years ago. I sprayed the crap out of it with fluid film and wrapped it up tight with a roll of plastic wrap and it was good for a month while I waited for stroker kit. RJ

8E85109E-1451-4888-9773-4268A1BD4981.jpeg
 
Thanks, I get that but mine is/has/will be built thru the next 6 months(hopefully) so it will be wrapped, unwrapped a few times, as well as going thru some heat "cycles" in the shop.
Maybe I'm overthinking it?
Swingin Chrome said:
I got my engine back from the machine shop in the dead of winter 2 years ago. I sprayed the crap out of it with fluid film and wrapped it up tight with a roll of plastic wrap and it was good for a month while I waited for stroker kit. RJ

View attachment 1716010248
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks, I get that but mine is/has/will be built thru the next 6 months(hopefully) so it will be wrapped, unwrapped a few times, as well as going thru some heat "cycles" in the shop.
Maybe I'm overthinking it?
Click to expand...
No i don’t think you are over thinking it. I was working on other parts of the engine at same time, like my cylinder heads and they flashed over with rust within a week. Desiccant packs would probably work well with engine wrapped up in bag in my opinion.
RJ
 
Get a bottle of nitrogen.
And let it leak into the bag.
It will displace the oxygen.
No rust without oxygen
 
I outfitted a VW engine in the family room and got it up and down a flight of stairs alone.
 
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