Engine build up options

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1966 dart wagon

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My 69 cuda has a 318 in it. It came with a 383 when i bought it but i dont think i wanna go big block. i have a 360 out of a van that i was thinking of putting into my cuda. The 360 i presume is going to have to have a complete rebuild, the 318 runs as of now also. I would like to know what do you guys think i should build(i know most of you guys will say 383 haha) but id like to stay small block maybe. Should i build up the 318 or 360 or swap cranks out of the 360 into the 318(what does that make for size?) Im really at a lost here, and i need to redue my wiring under my dash before anything but just in the future. Id like for my car to run low 12's to 11's . I might keep it auto unless i can find a 4speed and pedels around here for a good price. And i dont think i wanna tube it out...yet :thumblef: Id like for it to be a driver and not get horrible gas milage maybe 10mpg haha You guys got any suggestions or things that you have done to get your car running good/fast. O and i have a /6 rear (7 1/4) which i need to swap soon.
 
I'm gonna say stick with the 360. You can buy a 4" stroke crank new for about $400 which will give you 408 inches. With a fairly mild buildup, 9-9.5:1 compression and edelbrock heads you should be able to reach your goals. The 383 is a great engine, but in an a body the 360 fits like a glove.
 
360 all the way. You've got the cubic inches over the 318 and you don't have the big block issues with exhaust, plug changes, extra front end weight, etc. If the 318 is already running in the car, leave it there while you build up your 360. Put in something like a .030 over KB Hyper 9.1 CR piston; have a good valve job done with maybe a cleanup cut on the block and the heads; an aluminum intake like the RPM Airgap or old LD340; Carter, Holley or Edelbrock carb in the 650 cfm range; something like a Comp 274 or 284 cam, lifters, and related spring set; electronic ignition with the advance curve reworked; and a good air cleaner. Have the tranny rebuilt; something in the 2500+ RPM stall converter; and a 3.23 or 3.55 rear end, and go have some fun. This is just MY opinion of course. :)
 
ya i'd like to keep it fitting good and i wont have any exhaust (header) problems right no clearence issues? well a 4.00 crank is possible i dont think i wanna go the edelbrock head route. i was thinking 2.02 1.60 valves. bigger cam(i have no idea here) port and polish heads, fix up the block(bore it) ballance the crank, new bearings and such. a edelbrock intake(unsure which) edelbrock carb like 700cfm???

can somone explain cam talk to me? i am pretty rough in that area.
 
From the tone of your responses, I'm only questioning one item..Are you sure you want to run low 12s or 11s? Witht he figure of 10mpg, and the more street than track, you may wantt ostay in the 12s. I'm all for stroking any mototr, but in your case, a nice hydraulic cam, factory headed 360 will run waaaay into the 12s on pump gas and be calm in a normal driving situation. What you want to do, is seperate what will make the power you need, and fit your budget from what you read makes mad horsepower. A 408 (360+.030 with 4" crank) will run 11s all day, but you need to feed it, and iron heads are not what I'd use, unless it was mandatory. You'll spend a bit more making iron heads work well on a 406, than a set of aluminums that can far out produce them. For a nice balance, I'd go something like this...360 core, performance rebuild, KB pistons, stock crank and stock rods w/ARP bolts, for the heads, 2.02s, 1.60s, bowls cleaned up, gasket matched, chambers cc'd and polished. Leave the porting/polishing for another buildup. You dont need it. Edelbrock Air Gap intake, a nice hydraulic cam, headers (1 5/8 tubes woudl be fine), an Edelbrock Tunder AVS or Holley street Avenger, a nice 904 trans, convertor in the 2400 range, and a set of 3.91s should get it deep in the 12s on 91 octane, and close to 10-11mpg if you drive sane..lol.
 
thats i really appreciate the responce. any info on cam specs i should use i'm lost at this part of the build. I want a good running motor that will take some abuse, i want it to beat a srt4(friend has one) and really smoke them tires :drinkers: :thumblef: :notworth:
 
the 318 can and will run in high 11 sec and low 12 sec bracket.have a customers 318 dart, with 360 heads/ 1.88 valves, mopar 284/.484 hyd cam.
low tension rings, diamond l/w pistons, 9.3 cr, runs on pump gas, eagle rods,
block bored .030 over, 3.55 gears and a good converter, runs mid 12 secs.
swap to 4.56 gears, runs 11.95 to 12.08 @113 mph. no NOS!!!! was far cheaper than a stroker motor by far. plus, he runs it 3 seasons, puts on about 600 + runs, is very realiable,
 
I am currently building a 318 that I am stroking with a 360 crank, it adds up to 348ci with the 30 overbore. I figured on staying under $3000 to do the 318, and am getting close to that mark with the machine work. This engine will be in the car until I get my 408 stroker done, then it will get passed on to the next project. If I were you though, Id stick with the 360, you should be able to get it into the 12s without breaking the bank and keep it a nice street car. The issue with mileage though is gonna be a trick, its tough to get a carburated V8 to produce alot of power and still get good mileage with it. You kind of have to make up your mind, do you want a beast of an engine, or a nice street engne that gets good gas mileage. Myself, I want a beast, my Dart is my hobby car, my Intrepid is my daily driver that gets good mileage and it will stay pretty much stock so that it does.
 
SRT4s with a good driver are a hard car to run with..lol. Luckily, most people arent that good with them..lol. For a cam, i'd go something like a Crane 693801 or a Comp XE274H. a little rompy idle, not enough to kill economy, and not crazy lift..
 
If you use the right combination of parts to get a good balance between power and functionality, a 360 will give that SRT4 a run for it's money - in a drag strip type situation - just don't try running a slalom course against him. :) Just remember to balance everything so it all works together, not just throw the biggest cam and higest stall converter in there and expect to fry the tires off the rims, becuase bigger isn't always better.
 
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