I just got my motor out and before I put the new one in I want to clean up the engine compartment and paint it. The original color of my Dart is black, but now the outside is sliver and the engine compartment is still black. I am going to leave it black, but am wondering what others have done to clean up the area before paint. I know I need a good degreaser (suggestions welcome) and to make sure it is clean and grease / wax free. I am looking at the fenderwells, firewall and other areas. Also what is a good paint to use. Thanks in advance.
Engine compartment detailing
- Thread starter smythge
- Start date
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67barracuda
Well-Known Member
I used a high pressure washer with engine cleaner, Work very well.
onehellofadart
Well-Known Member
While mine was empty I sprayed it all down with "gunk". Tnen used a good scrub brush and toilet bowl brush.
Then heavy dish detergent and water mix and scrubbed it down again.
Then lightly sanded it and wiped it down with the solvent of the pain I was
going to use. I used a hi-temp primer then I believe a dupont paint!
Came out pretty good I think!!!
Then heavy dish detergent and water mix and scrubbed it down again.
Then lightly sanded it and wiped it down with the solvent of the pain I was
going to use. I used a hi-temp primer then I believe a dupont paint!
Came out pretty good I think!!!
mikedevore
Well-Known Member
for my own personal taste, if the engine bay color does match the outside, it looks second rate. if i'm looking at a mopar to buy, the first thing i look at is the engine compartment. it tells me alot about the owner or the so called restorer. even if you don't have a spray gun, they can mix your body color in an aresol spray can. you would be suprised how well this can turn out. it just takes a little effort to make it look nice! i do think it has an effect on resale!
I sandblasted mine to bare metal, but it sounds like that's a little more
trouble than what you want to do. Enough cannot be said about getting
it as clean and grease-free as possible. Once clean, you'll probably need to lightly scuff up the surface of the original paint, so the new paint has something to grip.
My suggestion is to find a good automotive paint supplier and grill him with a lot of questions. Ask about compatibility of primers and paints, epoxy vs. polyurethane vs. enamel, etc. If you have a Harbor Freight close by and own a compressor (or have access to one), take a look at their small spray guns for detailing. An engine bay, fender wells, and firewall have a lot of nooks and crannies to get in and under, with not much room to work. The small guns are ideal for that type work, plus you can mix a smaller quantity of paint.
Also, make sure you use a good quality seam sealer and go back over any seams or crevices that make have developed cracks over the years. Now's the time to do things right. And contrary to mikedevore's opinion, my personal taste is that the underhood color should match the body. But, that's merely my opinion.
Good luck,
Jerry
trouble than what you want to do. Enough cannot be said about getting
it as clean and grease-free as possible. Once clean, you'll probably need to lightly scuff up the surface of the original paint, so the new paint has something to grip.
My suggestion is to find a good automotive paint supplier and grill him with a lot of questions. Ask about compatibility of primers and paints, epoxy vs. polyurethane vs. enamel, etc. If you have a Harbor Freight close by and own a compressor (or have access to one), take a look at their small spray guns for detailing. An engine bay, fender wells, and firewall have a lot of nooks and crannies to get in and under, with not much room to work. The small guns are ideal for that type work, plus you can mix a smaller quantity of paint.
Also, make sure you use a good quality seam sealer and go back over any seams or crevices that make have developed cracks over the years. Now's the time to do things right. And contrary to mikedevore's opinion, my personal taste is that the underhood color should match the body. But, that's merely my opinion.
Good luck,
Jerry
mikedevore
Well-Known Member
[QUOTE='74 Sport]I sandblasted mine to bare metal, but it sounds like that's a little more
trouble than what you want to do. Enough cannot be said about getting
it as clean and grease-free as possible. Once clean, you'll probably need to lightly scuff up the surface of the original paint, so the new paint has something to grip.
My suggestion is to find a good automotive paint supplier and grill him with a lot of questions. Ask about compatibility of primers and paints, epoxy vs. polyurethane vs. enamel, etc. If you have a Harbor Freight close by and own a compressor (or have access to one), take a look at their small spray guns for detailing. An engine bay, fender wells, and firewall have a lot of nooks and crannies to get in and under, with not much room to work. The small guns are ideal for that type work, plus you can mix a smaller quantity of paint.
Also, make sure you use a good quality seam sealer and go back over any seams or crevices that make have developed cracks over the years. Now's the time to do things right. And contrary to mikedevore's opinion, my personal taste is that the underhood color should match the body. But, that's merely my opinion.
Good luck,
Jerry[/QUOTE]
I'M SORRY, I SHOULD HAVE PROOF READ MY OWN OPINION! I AGREE , THE ENGINE BAY SHOULD BE THE SAME COLOR AS THE REST OF THE CAR!
trouble than what you want to do. Enough cannot be said about getting
it as clean and grease-free as possible. Once clean, you'll probably need to lightly scuff up the surface of the original paint, so the new paint has something to grip.
My suggestion is to find a good automotive paint supplier and grill him with a lot of questions. Ask about compatibility of primers and paints, epoxy vs. polyurethane vs. enamel, etc. If you have a Harbor Freight close by and own a compressor (or have access to one), take a look at their small spray guns for detailing. An engine bay, fender wells, and firewall have a lot of nooks and crannies to get in and under, with not much room to work. The small guns are ideal for that type work, plus you can mix a smaller quantity of paint.
Also, make sure you use a good quality seam sealer and go back over any seams or crevices that make have developed cracks over the years. Now's the time to do things right. And contrary to mikedevore's opinion, my personal taste is that the underhood color should match the body. But, that's merely my opinion.
Good luck,
Jerry[/QUOTE]
I'M SORRY, I SHOULD HAVE PROOF READ MY OWN OPINION! I AGREE , THE ENGINE BAY SHOULD BE THE SAME COLOR AS THE REST OF THE CAR!
I agree that engine compartment should match the car, I will see if it feesable to do. The car is a metalic silver, should the engine compartment be metallic? Should the entire engine compartment be silver, firewall fenderwells, radiator support, what about the cross members? Since I have no idea what the exact color of the car is, how do I get a similar color mixed? I have a compressor and sprayer so thats not a problem. What about wires and steering box etc. Thanks again for all the great answers
dusterdon
Well-Known Member
The k member should be black. If you don't know the exact color of the silver, go to an automotive paint supply house and see if they can match it. As somebody already said, getting the paint put in aerosol cans actually does work pretty good. Just unbolt everything (or mask really well) that you don't want paint on and let it fly. I had a tawny gold gtx that had a red enging compartment (tawny gold was the orig color). I used the spray bomb method and it came out great. As with any painting job, the time put into prep really shows in the final product. good luck.
don
don
1971swinger
Well-Known Member
Detailing my engine bay. Not pulling motor i use air brush artist brush and a lot of patience .not rotisserie resto butt i happy with it...lot of beutiful cars on here.
I keep telling myself to not give a ****. Just learn to say good enough, and bust out the lipstick and por-15.
Unfortunately I get lured down the "do it right" rabbit hole just like you have.
Yea and spend to much money for sure. But I am a body man and it just rubs me the wrong way to do it wrong.
Not that I am a pro and I can handle some flaws just trying to make it better than factory and to last.
There's tons of guys enjoying their cars everyday...zip ties, Bondo, corners cut galore. My non-numbers matching slant 6 **** box sits 3' off the ground on a rotisserie.
Who wins? Lol
Yea Pascamp I here ya and don't think the guys that do it fast and cheep are any less we all just do what we can.
My daughter lives in PA. was there at Hershey for the swap meet last Oct. Plan on going again would like to see your ride.
1971swinger
Well-Known Member
Nice job man thats gona look nice.if i ever have to rebuild motor i go that rout.i wish my car didnt have ac but it factory original so i leave it and I never use it either
dicksmidlac
Well-Known Member
I used paint stripper, prime and paint.Not a pro job but looks fine
1971swinger
Well-Known Member
Like that color
No problem! If you like functional vehicles I have a fleet of GMC work trucks, or a couple GM SUVs for my family you can check out. There's a couple Mopars too. They're in the detatched garage. Two Challengers, and the Dart. Maybe my kids will see them on the road one day. Lol
Oven cleaner and a pressure washer will clean a lot of it.
Caution cover all the nice painted areas with plastic.
Caution cover all the nice painted areas with plastic.
Looks real good nice job.
I did one engine bay so far. Lucky me, it was black. I rattle canned it.
I started cleaning/scuffing the engine bay in the barracuda,and drifted away to the underside of the car.
I scrubbed it with simple green and pressure washed. Slowly picking away with scotchbrite.
Then prime/paint body color.
I started cleaning/scuffing the engine bay in the barracuda,and drifted away to the underside of the car.
I scrubbed it with simple green and pressure washed. Slowly picking away with scotchbrite.
Then prime/paint body color.
daves66valiant
68 Dart 340/727:66 Signet Vert 340/5spd: 68 D100
Power wash, degreaser in a spray bottle and scrubber, then dawn dish soap with little scrubber elves,
wet sanded with 320. Repeat dawn dish soap, quality paint grade wax and grease remover as final wipe down before epoxy. Then paint of choice.
wet sanded with 320. Repeat dawn dish soap, quality paint grade wax and grease remover as final wipe down before epoxy. Then paint of choice.
I don't know how you guys do such a nice job like that with a rattle can. looks good for sure.
Looks real good Dave Give the kids an atta boy for me.
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