Engine Ice Breaks Ground On Glycol Free Racing Coolant

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A56

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DECEMBER 16, 2021


When it comes to racing, leaked coolants can pose a huge risk. While tech cannot tell the difference between propylene glycol and ethylene glycol, the latter brings an environmental hazard. This is why most tracks specify you are only allowed to run water or a water mix with a glycol-free product. A new stand out in the glycol-free product realm is Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant.

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Engine Ice is hell-bent on creating a product that has better heat transfer than water. They are also claiming better aluminum corrosion protection than its competitors. We sat down with Engine Ice’s Director of Marketing and Sales, Scott Lukaitis, at the 2021 PRI show to discuss the new products.

“The trick here is to find out how much freeze protection you actually need. You don’t need glycol for freeze protection, so the focus then becomes needing a product with better heat dissipation. This is the product for you,” said Lukaitis. “Our new pouches will work with three to five gallons of distilled water. We’re even working on creating new pouches and branding.”

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While the new pouch product has not hit the shelf, it is scheduled for a February 2022 release. If you are looking for a product claiming to have a 20-percent less corrosion factor than other coolant additives and better heat transfer than water alone, then give Engine Ice a try.
 
I run Justice Brothers Super Radiator Cooler and Justice Brothers Radiator Protectant for added anti-rust and anti-electrolysis when running straight water. Both lubricant the water pump.

Been in my aluminum headed, aluminum radiator for 7 years.

Here's an real thorough comparision test of Wetter Wetter, DEI, Hyper-Lube, and Justice Brothers Super Radiator Cooler:

Cooling System Additives - Turbo and High-Tech Performance Magazine

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"Justice Brothers' Radiator Cooler gave us the lowest temperature during our testing - 177 F - and provided the lowest average temperatures overall when mixed with water alone."


This picture was taken in 2016, 5 years after putting in the Champion (Chinese) radiator with my rebuilt motor.

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Sounds like Evans Coolant.

I think Evans is not water based and you run a real low pressure cap with Evan’s too.

The EI is another type of coolant; Propolyne glycol instead of ethylene glycol. EI had antifreeze properties.

the Justice Brothers additive I run is just an additive to your normal coolant or additive to straight water. I run it was straight reverse osmosis water.
 
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The chart shows what a good liquid coolant pure water is & when you add anti freeze it reduces the water's cooling ability. Only add enough AF to suit your climate. Luckily where I live, I do not need any AF, only anti corrosion additive.
 
^^^^ Maybe, sounds like it for flushing and winterizing water lines.
 
The chart shows what a good liquid coolant pure water is & when you add anti freeze it reduces the water's cooling ability. Only add enough AF to suit your climate. Luckily where I live, I do not need any AF, only anti corrosion additive.


Actually water is a piss poor coolant unless you just look at things at a surface level.
 
Pure water has the one the highest heat conductivity quotients for a liquid, 0.6.
Out of 30+ listed in the Bosch Automotive handbook, it has the highest. All the liquids that are close have water in them, such as dilute hyd acid. Silicon oil is 0.13.
23% anti freeze by vol added to water, drops to 0.53, 38% AF drops to 0.45 & 54% AF drops to 0.40.
 
Pure water has the one the highest heat conductivity quotients for a liquid, 0.6.
Out of 30+ listed in the Bosch Automotive handbook, it has the highest. All the liquids that are close have water in them, such as dilute hyd acid. Silicon oil is 0.13.
23% anti freeze by vol added to water, drops to 0.53, 38% AF drops to 0.45 & 54% AF drops to 0.40.


I knew you’d post that. Like a surface learner, you ignore everything else.

There is more to cooling what liquid has the most conductivity. As an example, an aluminum radiator can’t shed heat like a brass/copper radiator, yet t aluminum radiator will out cool the other one by a mile, because of the construction of the radiator.

So there is that. On top of that, water is corrosive. It requires steam to create pressure so it will cool. That’s a bad way to do it. Water, even under 20 pounds of pressure will boil off much quicker than other coolants and cause localized hot spots. Those cause detonation and make the engine require more octane or less compression to stay out of detonation. Both bad options.

One more time. Water is a piss poor coolant medium. Unless you don’t really study.
 
RB,
Pal,
I have studied much more than you have or ever will.....
And one more time for you since you are a slow learner: water is an excellent coolant for a liquid. Alum & copper are solids & that is another discussion. If you really think water is so bad, don't you think that in the last 100 yrs of auto engines, men going to the moon etc, something better than water would have been found to cool engines....
Steam is the LAST thing you want in a cooling system because steam is full of air bubbles, & air is a very poor heat conductor. Water is NOT compressible & it is the compressed water that 'squeezes' the localised steam into smaller pockets to reduce localised hot spots.
You are full of BS as usual..

For slow learners.
From the Bosch Automotive Handbook, 9the edition, 1544 pages.

Page 320 on cooling, 'Owing to it's high specific heat & its correspondingly substantial thermal absorption capacity, water is a vey good cooing medium.'
 
I knew you’d post that. Like a surface learner, you ignore everything else.

There is more to cooling what liquid has the most conductivity. As an example, an aluminum radiator can’t shed heat like a brass/copper radiator, yet t aluminum radiator will out cool the other one by a mile, because of the construction of the radiator.

So there is that. On top of that, water is corrosive. It requires steam to create pressure so it will cool. That’s a bad way to do it. Water, even under 20 pounds of pressure will boil off much quicker than other coolants and cause localized hot spots. Those cause detonation and make the engine require more octane or less compression to stay out of detonation. Both bad options.

One more time. Water is a piss poor coolant medium. Unless you don’t really study.

you’ve listed:
  1. corrosion
  2. boiling point temperature
  3. changing boiling point by changing vapor pressure.
#1 can be changed with a anti-rust additive

#2 can be changed with #3. Liquids behave that way. Of course some less than others. Additives to water can change surface tension and help with vapor bubbles.

I’m assuming you are being coy to leading up to something you use ? So what is it ?
 
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you’ve listed:
  1. corrosion
  2. boiling point temperature
  3. changing boiling point by changing vapor pressure.
#1 can be changed with a anti-rust additive

#2 can be changed with #3. Liquids behave that way. Of course some less than others. Additives to water can change surface tension and help with vapor bubbles.

I’m assuming you are being coy to leading up to something you use ? So what is it ?


Nope, nothing coy about my post. I sad all I’m going to say. If you think water is the best coolant nothing I will say will change your mind. And frankly, I don’t give a crap what you guys use for coolant.
 
Nope, nothing coy about my post. I sad all I’m going to say. If you think water is the best coolant nothing I will say will change your mind. And frankly, I don’t give a crap what you guys use for coolant.

I don’t run straight water.

I run an additive with reverse osmosis water. It improves water resistance to: rust, electrolysis, surface tension. It seems functional and cost effective. Where I live, I have no concern with freezing.

The EI product in the original post is another brand of additive to mix with water.

What have you run with good results? Water based or something else ?
 
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