Timing Chain Cover crankshaft opening is the wrong size

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for $100. IT can be replaced..
1968 DODGE DART Summit Racing SUM-163273 Summit Racing™ OE-Style Harmonic Dampers | Summit Racing

While its not the factory original, and I have no plans on racing my convertible this
should get the job done.
The replacement doesn't have the cup cover on the backside of the harmonic balancer is that an issue ?


The original front side is attached

Front side.jpg
 
Professor Fate said:
I'm shocked that you can even see the timing marks to use the timing light- kudos
Click to expand...
It can be seen, but if you have PS I doubt it.

PXL_20240504_231940547.jpg


This is how I know the 67 damper mark does not line up with the 70 up cover.

I have a 67 with a 70 up cover, and the 67 timing mark
 
I have Power steering, and power breaks with factory front disk breaks. Timing is a bit challenging its like threading a needle but I never thought anything of it I just thought it was an odd Mopar setup.

I appreciate the feedback I now know the mixed configuration half 68 half 73.
I'll be replacing the 68 2 barrel carb with a 73 4 barrel intake at the same time as this other stuff
best to do it while Ive pulled the front side of the motrr off.
 
Take your new timing cover to the auto parts store with you when you buy the seal. That way you can be sure it fits with one trip. The new timing cover you have is WAY better than the old ones, no matter where the timing marks fall. If the front seal ever goes bad again, you only have to remove the harmonic balancer to replace it instead of having to drain the antifreeze and pull half the front of the motor off. All LA 318's were neutral balance, so if you buy a harmonic balancer that matches the timing cover year, the timing marks will line up.....even if they are hard to see. No more than a balancer costs, I would replace it vs doing a repair sleeve. I suspect that you are probably replacing the timing chain too if it is sloppy. All of this can be a bit daunting if you haven't done it a lot, so hang in there!

:thumbsup:
 
A mixture of driver side timing tab and 68 water pump is not that bad as long as the balancer has marks for the driver side tab. If you find it a problem to see the marks. Just get it to TDC, then make or find a bolt on passenger side pointer. Then install timing tape.
 
You can put your own TDC mark on the balancer or the cover, anywhere that is convenient, which makes matching any of these parts a non issue. You can even use the 273 style removable timing tab, if it fits.
Then you can either use a dial-back lite, or install a timing tape, or just mark off appropriate divisions.
As for the cup on the balancer, that is there to house a big felt sponge to sop up the oil from a leaky seal, after the rings start blowing more blow-by than the PCV system can handle, or whatever, lol. Keeps your garage floor clean for a week or two.
If my set-up wouldn't accept that cup, I sure wouldn't buy a different balancer just to be rid of it; I'd just zip that cup off there in a heartbeat.

One thing you gotta know is this;
on the driver's side of the front of the block, there is one W/P screw hole that is open into the water-jacket, in line with a cylinder, (I think one of the long ones), that if a too long bolt is installed there, you can screw it right into the cylinder wall and crack it. Be careful.

@fulltank
I have at least a dozen old and cleaned up covers, if you need one, PM me.
 
Just for future info....the early cover started in 1959 and was used up until early 1968 in poly 318's, LA 318's, 273's and 340's. They used a bolt-on timing mark that bolted to the lower water pump bolts and was ignition timed on the passenger side (for LHD cars :lol:) Late in '68 and in '69 they cast the timing mark into the cover. They still used the same early balancer and timed from the same side. These '69 and older engines used the cast iron water pump. In 1970 everything switched over to the driver's side and an aluminum water pump is used. The timing mark is cast into that side and the timing slot on the balancer was changed to match. The balancer still used the staggered bolt pattern for the crank pulley like the earlier models, but the pulley offsets were different. In '72 the crank pulley bolt pattern became symmetrical, but, everything else stayed the same until 1978 when they redesigned the cover to allow the seal to be installed from the front instead of the back like all earlier models. There were replacement covers (even from Mother Mopar) that had various combined features. I have one cover without the cast-in timing mark that has the '78 up seal design. You can usually tell if it's a replacement cover or not by the date code cast into the cover. When swapping covers and water pumps between '69-earlier and '70-newer, all the brackets and pulleys are different. So is the lower water inlet and corresponding radiator connection. Balancers can usually be swapped (on internally balanced engines) if you remark the timing slot and/or egg out one of the pulley bolt holes as necessary. Cast crank 340 and 360 engines need to use their correct balancer, a weight kit needs to be installed, or a complete engine rebalance to swap internal and external balancers.
 
Last edited:
cudamark said:
Cast crank engines need to use their correct balancer, a weight kit needs to be installed, or a complete engine rebalance to swap internal and external balancers.
Click to expand...
But only with the cast crank 340/360 engines, which each had their own unique balancer. 318s were all internally balanced regardless of whether they were cast or forged crank, and used the same balancer 9with the timing mark and bolt hole differences already noted).
 
fulltank said:
for $100. IT can be replaced..
1968 DODGE DART Summit Racing SUM-163273 Summit Racing™ OE-Style Harmonic Dampers | Summit Racing

While its not the factory original, and I have no plans on racing my convertible this
should get the job done.
The replacement doesn't have the cup cover on the backside of the harmonic balancer is that an issue ?


The original front side is attached

View attachment 1716245515
Click to expand...
For less you can send it to one of 2 places and have it remanned. Damper doctor and damper dudes. I've used both.
And you will prevent another "made in China" part from going on your car . .
 
volaredon said:
For less you can send it to one of 2 places and have it remanned. Damper doctor and damper dudes. I've used both.
And you will prevent another "made in China" part from going on your car . .
Click to expand...
Thanks ill look into it
 
Professor Fate said:
But only with the cast crank 340/360 engines, which each had their own unique balancer. 318s were all internally balanced regardless of whether they were cast or forged crank, and used the same balancer 9with the timing mark and bolt hole differences already noted).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info as it's a 318 block and it's been running smoothly the timing chain cover is all I need to worry about along with a cast wasterpump. The timing gears and chain were replaced when it was rebuilt ( No plastic gears)
 
If you can feel it with a fingernail, it's too deep.
 
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