Engine Installation

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Ricks70Duster340

Ricks70Duster340

Child of the King
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I have a 440 with aluminum heads & performer intake. I removed the engine after the heads were removed but would prefer to install it with the heads and intake installed. I've heard stories of the carb studs being pulled out of the intake so am a little concerned about using my carb plate as the lifting point.

What are your experiences with engine installation using the carb plate as the lifting point?
 
I’ve seen a lot of people use lifting plates on intakes.
I don’t trust them, I always bolt the lifting device to the heads, front one side and rear of the other.
Too much at risk for me.
 
coloradohill said:
I’ve seen a lot of people use lifting plates on intakes.
I don’t trust them, I always bolt the lifting device to the heads, front one side and rear of the other.
Too much at risk for me.
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I hear 'ya. I've used the lifting plate on a small block with aluminum heads & AG intake. The 440 is heavier though. The Trickflow heads I have do not have holes in the back side of the head, so can't do that.
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
I hear 'ya. I've used the lifting plate on a small block with aluminum heads & AG intake. The 440 is heavier though. The Trickflow heads I have do not have holes in the back side of the head, so can't do that.
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I've used 5,000# straps and load leveler to sling in with the shop crane. Felt way better than the plate, which I've used as well.

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Ricks70Duster340 said:
I hear 'ya. I've used the lifting plate on a small block with aluminum heads & AG intake. The 440 is heavier though. The Trickflow heads I have do not have holes in the back side of the head, so can't do that.
Click to expand...
If the holes are at the front on 1 side, they should be at the back on the other
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
I hear 'ya. I've used the lifting plate on a small block with aluminum heads & AG intake. The 440 is heavier though. The Trickflow heads I have do not have holes in the back side of the head, so can't do that.
Click to expand...
If no holes in the back of the head, how about an intake bolt?
 
I use this gizmo on small or big blocks with auto or manuals and haven’t had any problems, iron oe aluminum intakes. It also makes life easy when installing by yourself, tighten or loosen the jack screw accordingly and it changes the angle of the assembly.

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IMO, probably better to use the carb plate held with 4 5/16" correct length bolt engagement spreading the load over all the intake bolts.

I use end of head to opposite end of head as lift points when doing engine/trans assy. Bulkhead connector clearance can be a little tight as well as heater blower motor.
 
4 5/16 carb bolts have way more strength than 2 3/8 bolts 1 in each head in each end of the head. Some guy smarter than me figured this out many years ago. Kim
 
A carb plate works fine with most cast intakes. Heavily ported intake, billet stuff, etc. should use a spreader bar and hook to the ends of the heads. Can also pick up from the exhaust bolts if you have a weird intake like a cross ram.

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make sure the bolts/studs go pretty much to the bottom of the holes in the intake and the plate will be fine. it's when the bolts only thread in 4-5 threads you'll have issues.
neil.
 
It's not the 4 carb BOLTS I'd be worried about, it's the ALUMINIUM threads in the intake. Make sure u use the 3/8 holes on the head, NOT the 5/16 lol.
 
4spdragtop said:
It's not the 4 carb BOLTS I'd be worried about, it's the ALUMINIUM threads in the intake. Make sure u use the 3/8 holes on the head, NOT the 5/16 lol.
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I’m usually the only one around when changing engines. My thoughts are if a lift fails, it will/could fail right when the engine is over the nose of the car and damage sheet metal in the process of falling. That’s my biggest concern.
 
Yep, I just pulled the 273 by myself,(not recommended) but I don't know when to stop lol. I used the tilter, but even then the crank pulley and balancer had to come off. Also "forced" hood up the "extra" inch lol.
Father's Day tomorrow maybe someone got me a hoist??
coloradohill said:
I’m usually the only one around when changing engines. My thoughts are if a lift fails, it will/could fail right when the engine is over the nose of the car and damage sheet metal in the process of falling. That’s my biggest concern.
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I take the hood off but always need someone to help with that. I did see a jig to remove and install the hood by yourself using a cherry picker.
Maybe my Father’s Day gift? Lol
 
4spdragtop said:
Yep, I just pulled the 273 by myself,(not recommended) but I don't know when to stop lol. I used the filter, but even then the crank pulley and balancer had to come off. Also "forced" hood up the "extra" inch lol.
Father's Day tomorrow maybe someone got me a hoist??

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I bet you’re looking forward to running that car with the 340 in it!
 
Four carb studs screwed into a cast aluminum manifold will easily hold a lot more than what an engine weighs. It takes a huge amount of force to bust four bolts out of an aluminum manifold.

install.jpg
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
I have a 440 with aluminum heads & performer intake. I removed the engine after the heads were removed but would prefer to install it with the heads and intake installed. I've heard stories of the carb studs being pulled out of the intake so am a little concerned about using my carb plate as the lifting point.

What are your experiences with engine installation using the carb plate as the lifting point?
Click to expand...
I would highly recommend you use a leveling bar, that gives you positive control of the engine going in regardless of how you hang it. My opinion is the carb plate will hold easily, bolt it tight and leveling bar so no prying on hanging assembly to get in position., again, just mho. Best of luck and post pics!
 
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