What causes the engine oil to smell gasoline? Would appreciate some help from you FABO member the engine is a 318 with electronic ignition. The car haven't run for over 2 years so for now i'm trying to get it running. It runned good before i took the carb apart because it was dirt in it so the carb to manifold gasket went bad so the idle isn't good because of that. Every time the engine is cold i have to pour gasoline through the carb to get it running. I hope you can give me some answer. Thanks
Engine oil smells gasoline
- Thread starter Pompis
- Start date
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bad440
everything,all the time..
oil smelling like gas means it's been flooded over.(washing out the rings) you should change the oil and filter before going any further.....
ohiocowboy1277
Well-Known Member
more than likely the gas smell in the oil is due to running to rich or a fuel pump starting to fail and dumping gas into the oil but could also be low compression because of worn rings . as for having to dump gas down the carb to get it running you probably have a leaking carb that is draining the fuel out of the bowl leaving it completely empty causing the no start without priming prob. which is also causing fuel to get into the oil . fix or replace the carb and it could fix the gas in oil problem
cudavert
DARTAHOLIC
Oil can have a bad smell to it but not necessarily a gas smell. If it is REALLY a gas smell, it could be your fuel pump is bad, as was mentioned or a super-rich carb or one or more spark plugs fouled out and not firing for a period of time.
Sometimes, if the fuel pump is leaking bad enough into the crankcase, you'll actually see the oil level RISING on the dipstick every time you come back from driving the car!
Sometimes, if the fuel pump is leaking bad enough into the crankcase, you'll actually see the oil level RISING on the dipstick every time you come back from driving the car!
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Or, it could have something to do with "Every time the engine is cold i have to pour gasoline through the carb to get it running."
That's what I suspected happend but I wanted to be sure. The fuel pump is new but not installed by me. The oil smelled gas even when I bought the car so it's probably because of the fuel pump were bad or because of the previous owner couldn't start it and poured gas in the carb like I am doing. I'm going to install a new Demon Street carb 625 cfm and a performer intake does anyone think the 340 stock cam would work great?
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I think replacing the carb is a fantastic call, and the 340 cam has always had a good reputation good performance.
I don't see how you could go wrong with that plan.
Good then that's the plan to go with that. Another weird thing when we would check the timing with a stroboscopic light we could not see the mark on the damper even after we painted it. What causes that are the timing or firing order of? I dont think so because it runned good before i ruined the carb to manifold gasket.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
On a "normal" car that is run regularly the usual suspects are:
1--bad fuel pump. A very dangerous situation which can and has caused crank case explosions
2--carb too rich, flooding, leaking needles, seats, etc, which is causing a too rich condition and leaking raw fuel past the rings
But in your case, where the car is stored and PROBABLY has been started and run for short times, etc, and as you describe under adverse conditions, probably a gummy, crummy carb, it might be really understandable that the oil is "not well."
Fix or replace the carb situation. Change the oil and filter. Run it long enough to get it fully warmed up, and then monitor it for a period.
1--bad fuel pump. A very dangerous situation which can and has caused crank case explosions
2--carb too rich, flooding, leaking needles, seats, etc, which is causing a too rich condition and leaking raw fuel past the rings
But in your case, where the car is stored and PROBABLY has been started and run for short times, etc, and as you describe under adverse conditions, probably a gummy, crummy carb, it might be really understandable that the oil is "not well."
Fix or replace the carb situation. Change the oil and filter. Run it long enough to get it fully warmed up, and then monitor it for a period.
When you write "bad fuel pump" what to you mean? Is it the sealing in the pump or the sealing between the pump and the mount on the engine that's makes it a bad fuel pump? Because it is a new fuel pump on now and i hope that rules a bad fuel pump out is that right? Will replace oil and filter and monitor it.
Don't anyone know what's the cause of the stroboscopic light test doesn't show me the ignition timing like I wrote earlier?
Don't anyone know what's the cause of the stroboscopic light test doesn't show me the ignition timing like I wrote earlier?
valiant1966
Well-Known Member
By bad fuel pump they mean that the diaphragm in the pump is bad. Also, you say you can, see the timing mark? Sometimes you need to slow the idle down to be able to see it.
Are you sure it's only the idle too high and how high idle can make that possible? I believe you but my dad says it must be something else that's wrong and doesn't believe it's only the idle that is high. We runned the idle little high in my opinion. Thanks for the input all of you.
winstoninwisc
Taint easy livin free,season ticket ona 1wayride
all points to a tune up in need to start
Increasing the idle will make the timing mark move.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
Fuel smell is from cylinder wash. If you are dumping gasoline down your carburetor, you are giving the engine about 400% the amount of fuel it needs and will contribute to the problem.
When I went through the body work and paint on my girlfriend's Scamp, I had the car down for about five months. I drove it into the shop and it wouldn't show fuel when I went to start it after assembly, five months later.
It doesn't take long for a mechanical fuel pump to go to hell on today's fuels. Replace it and get a good regulator for your new carb.
If you had dirt in the float bowl, odds are the needle and seat for the float are suspect. If it doesn't seal, it will flood into the upper vent passages, which lead to the inside of the carb's air horn, among other places and will dump fuel, unregulated by the carb's metering, into the intake.
The reason you don't see the timing mark is because it's not likely anywhere near down at 750-1000 RPM and the mark is way up under the water pump.
The 340 cam is a nice choice for a 318.
When I went through the body work and paint on my girlfriend's Scamp, I had the car down for about five months. I drove it into the shop and it wouldn't show fuel when I went to start it after assembly, five months later.
It doesn't take long for a mechanical fuel pump to go to hell on today's fuels. Replace it and get a good regulator for your new carb.
If you had dirt in the float bowl, odds are the needle and seat for the float are suspect. If it doesn't seal, it will flood into the upper vent passages, which lead to the inside of the carb's air horn, among other places and will dump fuel, unregulated by the carb's metering, into the intake.
The reason you don't see the timing mark is because it's not likely anywhere near down at 750-1000 RPM and the mark is way up under the water pump.
The 340 cam is a nice choice for a 318.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Something to keep in mind. In my lifetime, I've had personal knowledge of two crankcase explosions due to fuel pump diaphragm failure. If the pump leaks, it will pump fuel into the crankcase, dilute the oil, and can cause bearing failure. It can also explode, blowing off anything from oil filler caps to valve covers and even pans.
One was Navy shore patrol, San Diego, early 70's. A guy who as "always late" was LATE. I told him "this'd better be good." He said he sent his kid out to start his car, a 57 Chev. BOOM, he says. Couple of days later he brought in the destroyed valve cover, and showed me the dent!!! in the inside of the hood!!! where the oil filler hit the hood.
After I got discharged, was just leaving a cafe in my home town, dark, winter night. Someone started a 70's Ferd and Ker-freekin'-hey'-balooie!!! Flame and crap from underneath--blew the oil pan loose and deformed the pan around the front of the engine.
green1
Well-Known Member
Timing probably advanced to 20, for the cam. Timing tape.
change the oil, pcv valve, breather and a good tuneup. don't forget the air filter.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Pompis,
There is a rubber diaphram in the factory style fuel pump that moves back and forth and using one way valves to pump the fuel to the carb.
When the rubber in them cracks from age, the fuel can pass through the break in the rubber and go directly into the crank case.
You have a new pump, so don't worry about it being that.
Sometimes the outer ring on a harmonic balancer (the part with the timing marks on it) can move in relation to the inner part.
This makes it where the timing marks can be completely in the wrong place compared to the crankshaft.
In these cases there are only two options.
1. get a new balancer
2. static time the engine using top dead center on the number 1 cyclinder.
The second method will show if your balancer outer ring has moved.
We can help you do it this way if needed.
Just ask if you need step by step.
There is a rubber diaphram in the factory style fuel pump that moves back and forth and using one way valves to pump the fuel to the carb.
When the rubber in them cracks from age, the fuel can pass through the break in the rubber and go directly into the crank case.
You have a new pump, so don't worry about it being that.
Sometimes the outer ring on a harmonic balancer (the part with the timing marks on it) can move in relation to the inner part.
This makes it where the timing marks can be completely in the wrong place compared to the crankshaft.
In these cases there are only two options.
1. get a new balancer
2. static time the engine using top dead center on the number 1 cyclinder.
The second method will show if your balancer outer ring has moved.
We can help you do it this way if needed.
Just ask if you need step by step.
67cuda360
Well-Known Member
you mentioned it did start up when you pour fuel down the carb. Does the car stay running or does it die shortly after? Since you managed to get it started I assume your spark plug wires are on in the correct order and the distributor is in correctly, not 180 degrees out.
it is always good to begin from the beginning with these things.
since the car has never run right, I would suggest starting with the following:
1. Find TDC (top dead center) on the number one cylinder (driver side front cylinder)
Make sure it lines up with the 0 mark on the balancer. If it doesn't line up the balancer has slipped and you either need to replace it or put a new mark on it.
2. make sure the carburetor is working properly and is getting fuel (no dirt in the bowls or needles)
3. set static timing like suggested above (while the engine is turned off),
make sure the number one cylinder is at TDC (on the firing stroke, not the exhaust stroke) and rotate the distributor so the no1 sparkplug tower is in line with the distributor rotor. This will put you close enough to start the engine and get it running (around 0 degrees)
4. bring the engine RPM down to around 750 at idle in neutral
5. set proper engine timing
this is different for every car but a good ballpark is usually somewhere around 12-14 degrees at idle (mine likes 18 ) and a total timing of 34-36. Test this at around 4000 rpm just to make sure all the advance is in and make sure you have the vacuum canister disconnected and plugged.
this should get you started and will give you a good baseline to work from. If you don't know if your balancer has slipped or what timing numbers you are running you'll be shooting in the dark
Let us know if you have any questions.
I'm sure there are lots of folks here that want to help.
it is always good to begin from the beginning with these things.
since the car has never run right, I would suggest starting with the following:
1. Find TDC (top dead center) on the number one cylinder (driver side front cylinder)
Make sure it lines up with the 0 mark on the balancer. If it doesn't line up the balancer has slipped and you either need to replace it or put a new mark on it.
2. make sure the carburetor is working properly and is getting fuel (no dirt in the bowls or needles)
3. set static timing like suggested above (while the engine is turned off),
make sure the number one cylinder is at TDC (on the firing stroke, not the exhaust stroke) and rotate the distributor so the no1 sparkplug tower is in line with the distributor rotor. This will put you close enough to start the engine and get it running (around 0 degrees)
4. bring the engine RPM down to around 750 at idle in neutral
5. set proper engine timing
this is different for every car but a good ballpark is usually somewhere around 12-14 degrees at idle (mine likes 18 ) and a total timing of 34-36. Test this at around 4000 rpm just to make sure all the advance is in and make sure you have the vacuum canister disconnected and plugged.
this should get you started and will give you a good baseline to work from. If you don't know if your balancer has slipped or what timing numbers you are running you'll be shooting in the dark
Let us know if you have any questions.
I'm sure there are lots of folks here that want to help.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
This makes me want to abandon my mechanical pump.
oh, and change the fuel pump while your at it. all can be done for under a hundred.
I will find the TDC tomorrow and start there. The carb is cleaned and work properly now. Is the canister vacuum the one between the 2 air/fuel screw (Carter 2bbl). Another thing the alternator charges about 17~19 volt and the battery is fully charged i think that's to much. Can you test the volt regulator and find out if it's broken or so? I don't have any lights or anything on when it runs so it shouldn't charge that much. I checked the cylinder pressure and it where 100 psi is that good?
Today I have found out that the timing mark has not slipped, checked it like you said 67cuda360. But for now I need a new volt regulator because the alternator charges too much 17-19 volt and some readings high as 20 volt. So i haven't runned it today and checked the timing. I'm afraid to burn some cables.
Is 100 psi good cylinder pressure?
Is 100 psi good cylinder pressure?
67cuda360
Well-Known Member
How did you test for TDC, did you use a piston stop?
100 psi, is that on just one cylinder or is that the average number you are seeing?
I'm not expert on compression but I always thought around 130 psi for a stock engine and around 165 psi for a performance engine is what a healthy engine should run. Not sure if 100 psi is necessarily bad though, as long as all cylinder are within 10 - 15% of each other.
100 psi, is that on just one cylinder or is that the average number you are seeing?
I'm not expert on compression but I always thought around 130 psi for a stock engine and around 165 psi for a performance engine is what a healthy engine should run. Not sure if 100 psi is necessarily bad though, as long as all cylinder are within 10 - 15% of each other.
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