AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
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Or at least an IR gun
its overheating so badly you cant not know it is....the radiator is bubbling and boiling perfusely the valve covers are so hot you cant even touch them and steam is coming out of the radiator and valve coversSo how do you know it is over heating? Usually steam wont come from valve covers, it will usually boil out through the over flow tube
Key words in red.its overheating so badly you cant not know it is....the radiator is bubbling and boiling profusely the valve covers are so hot you cant even touch them and steam is coming out of the radiator and valve covers
So, the radiator IS Junk, its leaking pretty badly underneath. Now, My current clutch fan blades are all dented up and bent, and i have no clue if the clutch itself is good. I was looking at aluminum Champion radiators and i found one that comes with dual electric fans for slightly more than jegs charges just for the bare radiator itself. Would it be worth it to use the dual electrics fans and run a relay? or buy a new clutch fan blade and clutch and keep the belt driven fan?
22 Inch Core Early Mopar All Aluminum 3 Row KR Champion Radiator Fan Combo | eBay
I TOTALLY agree. I tell people that all the time. I use mine so much, I don't know how I ever did without one.Or at least an IR gun
No, None of my gauges work
did you check to see if water was bubbling in radiator with cap off before it gets hot? If so head gasket may be blown.
Then why are you even runnin this POS? FIX somethin on the damn thing so you KNOW what you have. This is stupidness. Get a good WORKING temp gauge before you go any further. Do you want to destroy your engine? Is this a complete toy to you? No fan shroud, crappy clutch fan probably wore out, looped heater hose, no thermostat and on and on. Man, you're battin a thousand.
It is incomplete. It has no business even being run. Get gauges fixed.
So.leaking rad aside,i never saw a single word regarding flow. Engine COLD open rad cap and start engine. LOOK into rad and see if water is moving. The problem you describe could be a bad water pump.
No ****? Its incomplete? i didn't know that. I'm actively trying to fix problems as they arise, and sorry not everyone is a mechanic and we have to ask questions about stuff we don't know. I have to be able to get the car from the back yard to the garrage to work on it so I cant just leave it sitting around not getting fixed just because it has alot of work that needs done. Priorities. I dont care about idiot lights on the dash when i have problems right in front of me that have to be fixed to even be able to work on the car.
Exactly everyone isnt a mechanic, so why do you speculate its over heating if you have no solid numbers to prove that it is?
So a gauge is a idiot light? Really?
Oh im sorry i actually like to know my engine temp, oil pressure, voltage and rpm.
you speculate that the engine is over heating because its getting hot? Hello there is combustion going on, the whole engine is going to be hot. Why keep guessing? You can pick up a mechanical temp gauge for cheap. Then you know exactly how hot the engine is getting. Why keep pussyfooting around? Buy a temp gauge, radiator, new fan clutch thermostat and water pump and be done.
Some things just cant be fixed as they arise. If you have issues in more than one place in the same system its kind of pointless on replacing one part and hoping its the fix.
Its like needing new brake pads and rotors and you only put new pads on it because you dont want to replace the rotors and wonder why it wont stop.
You can get a stock replacement radiator for under 300. New fan clutch 30-50, water pump less than 50. Thermostat less than 10 bucks, rad cap for less than 10. Used shroud for around 100.
So for around 500 dollars you can be done instead of guessing on what is wrong, you already know the whole system is wrong, leaking rad, no thermostat, possible bad clutch, no shroud.
Stay away from electric fan garbage.
Invest in redoing the cooling system not just replacing it with a junk setup.
Also for most instances i would advise not to buy engine critical parts off of ebay. There is a huge issue with inferior parts that claim to be name brand flooding the ebay market. Most of your standard replacement parts can be bought at your local parts store and most parts have a lifetime warranty.
If your going to buy name brand parts stick with summit, jegs or other reputable distributor of racing parts.
That link you posted is the wrong radiator anyway, that is for 69 and earlier where the water pump outlet is on the drivers side
Rad: $282
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...11357/radiator/433526/4583189/1970/dodge/dart
Fan clutch: $33
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...12866/fan-clutch/2706/4581281/1970/dodge/dart
Water pump: $37
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...368/water-pump/cp7103/4526095/1970/dodge/dart
Rad cap: $6
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...p/7616/4435988/1970/dodge/dart?q=Radiator+cap
Tstat: $6 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...olant-thermostat/3478/4436173/1970/dodge/dart
Temp gauge: $17
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...emperature-gauge/7232/4299455/1970/dodge/dart
So for around 380 dollars plus coolant and tax you can replace all the major components in the cooling system besides the shroud and install a temp gauge
No one is trying to give you a hard time but your not listening to the advice, these guys have many years expirience. Its like speculating you have no oil pressure but you dont have a oil pressure gauge, how do you know what is happening in the engine if you have no data on the cooling and oiling system!