Engine paint.... Lets see them purdy SB's

[73Scamp318]

I just bought some mopar spray paint and let it fly. Oh yea little cleaning too.
View attachment different_headers.jpg

What kind of headers are those? They don't look like the standard cheapies I have or TTI's. I don't think I've seen a set like that before.

EDIT: Think I found 'em...they look like Doug's for an early-A.

 

[naus360scamp]

heres mine i tried to match the exterior color. the last one is how it started it was purple!

 

[72Plymouth]

Duplicolor Chrysler Blue

 

[mopardude318]

my 318: duplicolor chevy orange...

 

[Brad426]

I pulled my 408 (Magnum 5.9) apart after 1200 miles just to look. I took it out of my RAM to put in my 69 Valiant. Sold the RAM and put the stock 5.9 back in. All looked like new inside so I cleaned it up to paint. There are some very nice looking engines on this thread. Let's keep it going because there are some very helpful ideas here. Thank you everyone. I'll post more as I go. :thumbup:

 

[Brad426]

We have used VHT engine enamel with excellent results. Other brands may work well too. For an engine oil pan to intake you need 4 cans. If no fuel is spilled before backing in (first engine run), vht colors stay.
Key to good painting is getting the grease and oil from the block. Surface rust is not a problem to paint on as long as theres no oil. Rusty surfaces like to keep oil so degrease well.
Aply paint in thin layers. With VHT, even small runners and noses disapear after curing (heating, engine break in).
Sounds like an VHT add doesnt it but its just my experience.
Thanks
Chris

Has anyone tried VHT engine clear coat after painting?

 

[mopar4x4stroker]

Yea,... thanks for the pics guys! Some sweet looking sb's, but can you also say what kind of paint you use and if you primed it, and with what. Also, how many hours/miles it has if already heat cycled.

I think I'm having second thoughts on rattle can unless someone proves otherwise with a motor that has 50K and still looking fresh. I hate to half *** it since its a fresh motor right from the machine shop thats been tanked and washed. A $7k motor should get more than just a rattle can paint job... I have a gun but no dryer/sep, nor do I have the experience.

I wonder how much a shop would charge to pant just the pan/block/T chain cover/heads?

Thanks again for the pics, keep em comin if you got em.

 

[Nite Moves]

Heres mine. Not completely done, or in the Dart. Man she aint as nice as all yours but. Well im just startin out. Hope its ok to be in here........

 

[Johnny Dart]

Mopar Performance Street Hemi Orange.
Clean/prep the motor well, I use brake cleaner. Let it dry. Srpay it off with compressed air.
No primer, just spray it on, light coats to start.
Never,ever,have had any kind of issue with this paint.

 

[mopar4x4stroker]

for the best results and durability...

clean clean and clean.. i use brake clean...

then spray on epoxy primer

then us a high solids urethane paint like utech 3.8...

here is the info from the can for a street hemi orange...

How hard is it to learn to spray (a motor)? I might go this rout, that tint of orange is perfect. Do you have some pics as it sits today or another one thats been running for a few years? I sure appreciate the help.

 

[mopar4x4stroker]

Mopar Performance Street Hemi Orange.
Clean/prep the motor well, I use brake cleaner. Let it dry. Srpay it off with compressed air.
No primer, just spray it on, light coats to start.
Never,ever,have had any kind of issue with this paint.

Nice!!! How may miles/hrs of run time or was that D-day?

 

[abodyjoe]

How hard is it to learn to spray (a motor)? I might go this rout, that tint of orange is perfect. Do you have some pics as it sits today or another one thats been running for a few years? I sure appreciate the help.

well i blew up the motor so no i have no current pics.. the intake ,water pump and valve covers are on my new (used motor and still looks great. it holds up awesome.


biggest thing is to mix the paint right, proper tip for the gun and your air pressure. oh and a dryer for the air line.. can't really screw up a motor. if you get a run somewhere chances are your not going to see it anyway..

 

[abodyjoe]

here are pics from three years later. the block and heads are spray bomb ( motor was only supposed to be there a year max) the valve covers, water pump and intake are all from the other motor. if you look at the difference between the water pump , timing cover and intake you can really see the difference and how much better the spray gun paint looks. even after 3 years. today all the spray bomb paint is falling off and the urathane is still there..

 

[CUDACOX]

My Duster.

 

[Purple Haze]

A shot of my old 340.

 

[72goldduster]

Bear in mind, this is my very first solo build, and it's better than what it used to look like
on the stand, obviously...

And where it currently lives.

 

[mopar4x4stroker]

here are pics from three years later. the block and heads are spray bomb ( motor was only supposed to be there a year max) the valve covers, water pump and intake are all from the other motor. if you look at the difference between the water pump , timing cover and intake you can really see the difference and how much better the spray gun paint looks. even after 3 years. today all the spray bomb paint is falling off and the urathane is still there.

Maybe I read it wrong, but did you rattle can the T cover? Thats a good comparison of rattle vs gun if so. Even though the pump dosent get as hot but still. I'm really surprised after 3yrs the Heads/block look so good yet. Where is it falling off? Did you prime the block/heads? Also did you clear the first motor?

Thanks for the pics

 

[smartken22]

Heres my 340...shes still in progress but getting there!

 

[abodyjoe]

Maybe I read it wrong, but did you rattle can the T cover? Thats a good comparison of rattle vs gun if so. Even though the pump dosent get as hot but still. I'm really surprised after 3yrs the Heads/block look so good yet. Where is it falling off? Did you prime the block/heads? Also did you clear the first motor?

Thanks for the pics

no the timing cover is spray bomb so is the block and heads. i had just put that motor in at the time. the spray can was fresh. the intake, valve covers and water pump are urathane and 3 years old...

where is it falling off? everywhere it was spray bombed. yes i cleaned the hell out of it. no i didn't prime it. it was only going to be in there a year or i would have painted it with urathane..

if you want it to hold up and last. look 5 years down the road like the day you sprayed it go get the epoxy primer and the urathane paint and spray it.. not much else to say about it really.

 

[Brad426]

Mopar Performance Street Hemi Orange.
Clean/prep the motor well, I use brake cleaner. Let it dry. Srpay it off with compressed air.
No primer, just spray it on, light coats to start.
Never,ever,have had any kind of issue with this paint.

This works for me too. Right out of the can on several engines I have done. Clean, Clean & Clean first. I also use heat to warm the parts up and chase out any moisture.

Now if you really want to go hard core. There are shops that high temp powder coat now. The entire engine. Also motorcycle engines that run hotter than a car engine. I have done snowmobile engines in the past and they look great and last but, it cost way more than a rattle can. There are a million colors to pick and you have to grind it off. I'm going to use Plati Coat clear engine paint over the Mopar 1587933 and a very lite scuffing. I want a high gloss look. I'll put in more pics as I go. Cheers

 

[Brad426]

I found some more old pictures to share. All engine were painted with Mopar rattle can paint. The 70 Cuda is still showing great after 18 years since the # resto.

 

[LETSRACE]

If I wanted to paint my engine school buy yellow (highway yellow) and can't find a premade high temp paint for it, what else can I use that will be just as good or better?

I have used VHT and Dupli-color high heat yellow rattle can found at Auto-Zone.

 

[Rockerdude]

I used Duplicolor engine enamel Chrysler Red on my mill.

 

[mopar4x4stroker]

no the timing cover is spray bomb so is the block and heads. i had just put that motor in at the time. the spray can was fresh. the intake, valve covers and water pump are urathane and 3 years old...

where is it falling off? everywhere it was spray bombed. yes i cleaned the hell out of it. no i didn't prime it. it was only going to be in there a year or i would have painted it with urathane..

if you want it to hold up and last. look 5 years down the road like the day you sprayed it go get the epoxy primer and the urathane paint and spray it.. not much else to say about it really.

Lots more... What would be a good enough dryer/separator? Do I need a dryer or just a sep? I'm thinking of just going to a body shop if a separator is going to cost more than the paint job.

I have a regulator, and My compressor is a craftsman 33gal 5cfm@90psi. Would this work? I dont intend to do body work just stuff like axles, motors, sleds(motors/tunnels/A-arms), Frames, wheels, trailers, ect.

I have no experiace with paint other than a rattle can. I apologize for the "dumb" questions

 

[Kernel Sanders]

here is a couple 318 mock up shots.

Hi temp rattle can international red.... just because I like it lol

I definately cant use the 92/93 magnum manifolds but I will try the old unknown headers (black jacks maybe?) but failing that the tried and true 273/318 mani's

I know I missed a couple spots when I took the pix and no the internals are not in her as I need to get the main and rod bearings still lol

Oh! No primer with the exception of the oil pan and valve covers