anyone here ever use the POR 15 engine paints? I have had a kit of Chrysler Blue around here for a few years, and am about to paint a /6 with it..... and a set of '302 heads I had done up for another 318 that I have, (in my Fury) that are all machine shop fresh.... hopefully its like "normal" POR 15, of which I've used a bunch over the years.... and don't peel, like Duplicolor or PlastiKote loves to do, at least every time I have used either of those 2 brands in about the last 5-6 years..... no matter how good of surface prep that I have done.
I'm at a point of "use it, or it ain't gonna be any good" I got the POR for my Volare's engine, which I still don't have "built".
and I paid pretty good money, back when I got it (not as much as it presently goes for) but want to get my moneys worth... which I won't, if I have to "chuck it".
I have sandblasted all my tinwork, and have put the "metal ready" on today.... a few coats to keep it wet for the "at least 30 min" that POR suggests. I have the silver to use on the tinwork for the "primer" (though I used the original 4 oz can that came with the kit and bought fresh of "that" last fall.... I still have the can of "318 blue" that I've had for several years, unopened.
The block has been painted by the machine shop with I don't know what, its a darker gray than "cast iron gray" and that paint seems well-applied, so I hope it works as a good primer for the POR 15 but the head didn't get the gray primer treatment at the machine shop, just clean bare cast iron,,,, with some of the original factory applied blue still there.
I did wind up buying a can of the "KBS" brand exhaust manifold paint a while back, I have the exhaust manifold done and ready to go on..... I put like 3 coats on that last fall and it's "good and dry".... it's "finished as is" as far as I am concerned. I know that stuff depends on the "baking in," once the manifold heats up.
I am gonna brush the silver (primer) on the tinwork, and on the Super 6 intake manifold I have, and then hopefully stick a few bolts in the tin to hold it to the engine (and keep paint out of where I don't want it) and spray the blue on everything, all at once.
gonna go by the appliance shop for a couple of referigerator boxes, to set up in the garage as a makeshift temporary "paint booth"
I have a couple of Binks #7 guns, but I don't want to spray that stuff thru those, in case I cant get them 100% cleaned out.... I was just given a new, $20 HF gun with cup on top. If I can't get that one clean, I ain't worried about it.... I also have (3) "detail guns" here that I can use as the "sacrificial lamb" if it comes to that..... though I haven't sprayed with ANY paint gun in several years, I think I'm gonna have to do some "you tube university" for a refresher course in handling a paint gun, before I do this job. I've never used a gun with paint cup on top of the handle. for the size of this "paint job" I'm thinking that the detail gun will be "just about the right size" for this one, the cup is about the size of a pop can. I know how hard it is to get POR off my hands..... that's why I'm leery of being able to get whatever gun I use, 100% cleaned out afterwards.
I've heard lots of "good things" about Bill Hirsch engine paint and Id like to try that stuff one day, but for now I'm wanting to use what I got.
I'm at a point of "use it, or it ain't gonna be any good" I got the POR for my Volare's engine, which I still don't have "built".
and I paid pretty good money, back when I got it (not as much as it presently goes for) but want to get my moneys worth... which I won't, if I have to "chuck it".
I have sandblasted all my tinwork, and have put the "metal ready" on today.... a few coats to keep it wet for the "at least 30 min" that POR suggests. I have the silver to use on the tinwork for the "primer" (though I used the original 4 oz can that came with the kit and bought fresh of "that" last fall.... I still have the can of "318 blue" that I've had for several years, unopened.
The block has been painted by the machine shop with I don't know what, its a darker gray than "cast iron gray" and that paint seems well-applied, so I hope it works as a good primer for the POR 15 but the head didn't get the gray primer treatment at the machine shop, just clean bare cast iron,,,, with some of the original factory applied blue still there.
I did wind up buying a can of the "KBS" brand exhaust manifold paint a while back, I have the exhaust manifold done and ready to go on..... I put like 3 coats on that last fall and it's "good and dry".... it's "finished as is" as far as I am concerned. I know that stuff depends on the "baking in," once the manifold heats up.
I am gonna brush the silver (primer) on the tinwork, and on the Super 6 intake manifold I have, and then hopefully stick a few bolts in the tin to hold it to the engine (and keep paint out of where I don't want it) and spray the blue on everything, all at once.
gonna go by the appliance shop for a couple of referigerator boxes, to set up in the garage as a makeshift temporary "paint booth"
I have a couple of Binks #7 guns, but I don't want to spray that stuff thru those, in case I cant get them 100% cleaned out.... I was just given a new, $20 HF gun with cup on top. If I can't get that one clean, I ain't worried about it.... I also have (3) "detail guns" here that I can use as the "sacrificial lamb" if it comes to that..... though I haven't sprayed with ANY paint gun in several years, I think I'm gonna have to do some "you tube university" for a refresher course in handling a paint gun, before I do this job. I've never used a gun with paint cup on top of the handle. for the size of this "paint job" I'm thinking that the detail gun will be "just about the right size" for this one, the cup is about the size of a pop can. I know how hard it is to get POR off my hands..... that's why I'm leery of being able to get whatever gun I use, 100% cleaned out afterwards.
I've heard lots of "good things" about Bill Hirsch engine paint and Id like to try that stuff one day, but for now I'm wanting to use what I got.
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