Hellrats
Just another dumbass
Only if it split toward the bottom. They usually splint into the intake runner.
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Engine repair question about 2008 Town and Country 3.8L
- Thread starter 65LoveAffair
- Start date
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Hellrats
Just another dumbass
Really head gaskets aren't bad to do on it. The exhaust cross over pipe bolts will be the biggest pain in the *** to get apart. You don't even need a lift to do the job. Everything is from the top.
Well you've lost me now. I don't know which vehicle has which. Closest I was I had an 08 Wrangler with the 3.8 years ago I bought new. Had to have an engine at 18K. So after that, I traded that POS.
It was a total POS, too. Wouldn't pull a greasy string outta a cat's ***. Then the engine started knocking at 18K.
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OK lots of good comments so far.
Now let's get down to some basic DIY diagnostics, to help the owner get this fixed.
1. White steam coming out exhaust on first start. Check
2. Pull the 3 front spark plugs in order to see which one is "Steamed" clean. Check
3. If you can isolate which of the front 3 cylinders is leaking coolant through a visual spark plug veiwing. Then if you follow up with a compression test on those front 3, you may find that it is cylinder #6 (front on driver's side), as that is a common cylinder to go first.
The nice part about cylinder #6 on the front v6 bank is it is the easy head to pull, no front engine accessory parts to pull to get the head off, although the simple intake manifold has to come off first.
Cylinder #6 showing carbon washed off by steam.
Initial compression test should show a lower compression reading on the leaking head gasket Cylinder, like #6.
Seeing proofs of #6 being the problem, I would just do the front v6 head gasket (the simple one).
These are simple engines to do as they are not the complicated overhead cam, but are simple pushrod engines. So you don't have to pull the whole front of the engine down just to get the head (s) off.
Some simple diagnostics and some help from a friend, you can be well on your way again. All for the price of 1 head gasket.
Key is: diagnose which cylinder it is. Good Luck
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Now let's get down to some basic DIY diagnostics, to help the owner get this fixed.
1. White steam coming out exhaust on first start. Check
2. Pull the 3 front spark plugs in order to see which one is "Steamed" clean. Check
3. If you can isolate which of the front 3 cylinders is leaking coolant through a visual spark plug veiwing. Then if you follow up with a compression test on those front 3, you may find that it is cylinder #6 (front on driver's side), as that is a common cylinder to go first.
The nice part about cylinder #6 on the front v6 bank is it is the easy head to pull, no front engine accessory parts to pull to get the head off, although the simple intake manifold has to come off first.
Cylinder #6 showing carbon washed off by steam.
Initial compression test should show a lower compression reading on the leaking head gasket Cylinder, like #6.
Seeing proofs of #6 being the problem, I would just do the front v6 head gasket (the simple one).
These are simple engines to do as they are not the complicated overhead cam, but are simple pushrod engines. So you don't have to pull the whole front of the engine down just to get the head (s) off.
Some simple diagnostics and some help from a friend, you can be well on your way again. All for the price of 1 head gasket.
Key is: diagnose which cylinder it is. Good Luck
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As we are all thinking through this, if you are feeling really lucky.
You can re-torque the cylinder head bolts to try to re-seal the seeping head gasket, by simply removing the valve cover.
Use a toque wrench and follow the factory manual torque sequence and recommended foot/lbs. on the 8 head bolts.
Being you are not getting coolant in the oil yet, this could be a good simple, cheep quick fix.
Throw in a few oz. of Dike sealer as added insurance.
Might need to pull the 6 small bolts out of the front exhaust manifold and pry it forward to gain access to the lower row of head bolts for re-torquing.
Worth a try.
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You can re-torque the cylinder head bolts to try to re-seal the seeping head gasket, by simply removing the valve cover.
Use a toque wrench and follow the factory manual torque sequence and recommended foot/lbs. on the 8 head bolts.
Being you are not getting coolant in the oil yet, this could be a good simple, cheep quick fix.
Throw in a few oz. of Dike sealer as added insurance.
Might need to pull the 6 small bolts out of the front exhaust manifold and pry it forward to gain access to the lower row of head bolts for re-torquing.
Worth a try.
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Here is another "What It Can Be"
Intake manifold gasket.
"Loose Intake Manifold Bolts"
Should be able to get in there and snug them up without tearing everything down.
Check this short Video:
Not Always a Head Gasket
White smoke on the morning start up.
Intake manifold leaking at head, sucking coolant into the cylinder.
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Intake manifold gasket.
"Loose Intake Manifold Bolts"
Should be able to get in there and snug them up without tearing everything down.
Check this short Video:
Not Always a Head Gasket
White smoke on the morning start up.
Intake manifold leaking at head, sucking coolant into the cylinder.
☆☆☆☆☆
65LoveAffair
Whovian
Okay, these are all good comments. I thank you all. I have one more question. If it is the intake manifold gasket, and not the head gasket, will a compression test show all six cylinders good, or will there still be one (or more) off? I apologize, but I’m only a shade-tree mechanic and I have never had to deal with this before. Thank you all again!
motorpirate
serial mopar owner
A compression test only tests the cylinder.
The compression would be the same intake leak or not, or even no intake manifold at all.
The compression would be the same intake leak or not, or even no intake manifold at all.
OK videos are showing intake manifold leak usually leaks to outside and to the ground.
Best to pull the spark plugs first and see which one looks different than the others. That is probably your leaky head gasket cylinder.
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Best to pull the spark plugs first and see which one looks different than the others. That is probably your leaky head gasket cylinder.
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I meant to comment on the compression test results but got lost in the conversation. As mentioned, the compression test only tests the individual cylinders. However, as mentioned earlier, the compression test on the "bad" cylinder could be low, but I have also seen the bad cylinder read too high, because of the presence of coolant in the cylinder. Coolant cannot be compressed and if there is a small amount, it can make a big difference in the compression test results. So look for one that's decidedly "different" but not necessarily low. It could go either way.
I wish the OP would step in and tell what if any of the suggestions were tried, it seems to be radio silence for him.
Think he is wrapping his head around what he may be able to do for starters on his own.
Post #36.
If he can get an idea which cylinder it is, maybe he can get some help from a friend to get onto the next step.
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Here is another trick us Old Schoolers do.
Anti-Freeze is Sweet
If you can "Sense" some sweetness at the tip of one of the spark plugs, or the threaded end of the compression tester right after testing a cylinder.
Then you know it's that cylinder that has the head gasket leaking.
Now you can proceed on to the next logical step of what needs to be done.
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Anti-Freeze is Sweet
If you can "Sense" some sweetness at the tip of one of the spark plugs, or the threaded end of the compression tester right after testing a cylinder.
Then you know it's that cylinder that has the head gasket leaking.
Now you can proceed on to the next logical step of what needs to be done.
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65LoveAffair
Whovian
Okay, the plot thickens. The last couple mornings there has been no white smoke on cold start-ups. Still no leaks underneath. I have not done anything, either. A friend has a shop but I can’t get in there until next week. Hoping to see what’s up before I start throwing money I don’t have at it. I’ll update here when I have a diagnosis.
Thanks again for all the suggestions and advice. It’s all appreciated!
Thanks again for all the suggestions and advice. It’s all appreciated!
Maybe it's finally out of coolant. 
Seriously, hope you get it fingered out...
Seriously, hope you get it fingered out...
The only head gasket I've ever changed at work on one of those was the front one, and it was #6, We've used Moroso ceramic seal to fix some pretty bad leaks...do exactly what the instructions say. Hopefully Your leak takes a long vacation for You, lol, but don't bank on it! Best of luck to You..peace!
There is that cylinder #6 again. Hopefully his mechanic friend can diagnose the problem cylinder for him next week when he takes it in.
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BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I have a 2002 3.8L (T&C minivan). 295K miles and still excellent compression, which isn't unusual based on a forum. Heads have never been off, nor the lower intake manifold. I don't recall a coolant cross-over there, but didn't look close. I recall a coolant cross-over in the timing cover (removed once, plus oil passages since oil pump in timing cover), so don't know why there would be another one at the front of the intake. Perhaps one at the aft end (where T-stat sits).
I wouldn't try to fix a head gasket leak without knowing that I had one. Typically you get symptoms besides just "coolant loss", such as "brown slime floating in radiator, and "milky oil". Strangest I had was in our 1996 2.4L which leaked oil to the outside, but nothing else. Finally changed it to the redesigned MLS gasket since the slight oil leak was dripping on the hot exhaust manifold for that burnt-rubber smell.
Many times, coolant is lost somewhere not noticeable, and perhaps as a fine spray which doesn't show on the ground. Heater hoses and heater cores are a prime suspect. The later gives a coolant smell in the cabin. It can leak out the condensate drain where not noticed. If the rear heat/AC option, he has many places to leak. In mine, a small plastic restrictor in a heater hose near the firewall cracked and leaked. Many owners have had that. I think it is only in vans w/ rear heat (mine). I tossed it since not essential. Another leak appeared from the water pump, but was actually from a rubber cap on a stub at the rear of the water pump housing (up high from underneath on rear side, so hard to see). I think that was only on vans w/ the oil-cooler option (mine w/ factory tow package). I replaced it with better 5/8" silicone hose w/ 1/2" copper cap clamped inside end. We'll see if OP looks at any of these areas, then reports back on results and all the helpful suggestions.
I wouldn't try to fix a head gasket leak without knowing that I had one. Typically you get symptoms besides just "coolant loss", such as "brown slime floating in radiator, and "milky oil". Strangest I had was in our 1996 2.4L which leaked oil to the outside, but nothing else. Finally changed it to the redesigned MLS gasket since the slight oil leak was dripping on the hot exhaust manifold for that burnt-rubber smell.
Many times, coolant is lost somewhere not noticeable, and perhaps as a fine spray which doesn't show on the ground. Heater hoses and heater cores are a prime suspect. The later gives a coolant smell in the cabin. It can leak out the condensate drain where not noticed. If the rear heat/AC option, he has many places to leak. In mine, a small plastic restrictor in a heater hose near the firewall cracked and leaked. Many owners have had that. I think it is only in vans w/ rear heat (mine). I tossed it since not essential. Another leak appeared from the water pump, but was actually from a rubber cap on a stub at the rear of the water pump housing (up high from underneath on rear side, so hard to see). I think that was only on vans w/ the oil-cooler option (mine w/ factory tow package). I replaced it with better 5/8" silicone hose w/ 1/2" copper cap clamped inside end. We'll see if OP looks at any of these areas, then reports back on results and all the helpful suggestions.
tjsautoservice
commandowagon
I have repaired many leaking intake gaskets on these engines. Some will leak to the outside where it will run down the top of the transmission, and others will leak into the intake runners where you won't see anything leaking. They WILL make white "smoke" immediately after starting that can be easily identified by the weird, "burnt plastic" smell. However if you are getting bubbles out of the cooling system immediately after starting, then you probably have a bad head gasket. The easiest way to test for that is to put a rubber surgical/inspection glove over the radiator neck and seal it with a rubber band. Also clamp off the overflow hose temporarily. If you have a bad head gasket the glove will inflate quickly as soon as you start up the cold engine. I have had some luck with the older style fiber or "black pepper and eggwhite" pressure sealer, but it is only temporary. I have also had to throw away many radiators and heater cores that have been ruined by some of the new "fancy" sealers, in particular Blue Devil. That stuff will plug up even radiator hoses with a waxy, white goop that is not soluble with anything I have found. I have had to literally dig out engine block cooling passages with a screwdriver after people have tried these miracle cures. I have found many times that a used 3.3/3.8 engine is actually much cheaper that trying to repair a bad head gasket on one of these engines when you calculate in the cost of a gasket set, the labor to remove the head(s) and the machine shop work needed to get the heads cleaned and resurfaced, not to mention that sometimes you get the head off only to find it has a crack or is warped too badly to reuse anyway. I hope this helps you, and good luck getting it going again!
tjsautoservice
commandowagon
I see that you are actually not too far from me. I'm in Champaign.
If you can figure out how to send me a private message (PM), I might be able to help you out.
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