Engine running due to stall converter???

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If cooling system is under pressure, how can a hose collapse? The spring,my understanding was it was only supplied in certain vehicles for preventing collapse in the vacuum filling process. I would think the spring inhibit flow if anything.

If the impeller is pulling enough coolant from the radiator while the thermostat is closed it will collapse the hose. Think of how the flow of coolant through the system occurrs. Nail the throttle, pump spins faster pulling what it can including the hose. Collapsing hose is not uncommon.
 
The water pump doesn't "Pull" water. The vanes on the water pump cause a drop in pressure which causes the water to rush to the reduce atmospheric pressure. But it can only do this if there is a void for the water to go to. So until the thermostat opens, there is no void or drop in pressure to create flow. It is a misconception that water can be sucked by a water pump, water has no surface tension, you can't pick up water.
 
I have seen lower rad hoses collapse, but while warming up and cap off. If there is no air in system and its running at operating temperature and optimum pressure its impossible for it to suck a hose flat. Guess its time for pressure/vacuum gauges and a go pro to see whats going on.
 
During the warm up period,with the stat closed,some of the water is going round and round inside the pump,via the bypass hose, with some percentage looping thru the block. I couldn't speculate as to how much goes where. During the early part of this activity , there is little to no pressure yet in the system.

Vane type pumps are pretty good pushers, but they have very little ability to pull, hence why a well-pump has to be primed on a drystart. If the footvalve fails, it is often very difficult or impossible to get the pump working again..

You can't pick up air either, but you can still "suck" it thru a straw;but I understand what you're saying. I have seen that hose flat as can be when the water in the rad gelled up on a too-cold for the freeze-protection level.
 
Make sure your sender matches your gauge. There's many different ranges can have you chasing a non-issue.
Gauge Sending Units - Water temperature Gauge Type (application)
I just "thumbed" thru this thread again. In the pic, it looked like you rad/elec. fan shroud covered the whole radiator, is hard to tell in the pics. If it does, that`s probly ur hi way heating problem, too restrictive. Needs air flaps if it so . Just looked again, looks like a hell of a restrictive shroud to me/ hard to tell !
 
2)8-blade hi-flo pump with an anti-cavitation plate, and matching Hi-flo 195 stat,
anti-collapse spring in lower hose, 50/50 coolant, semi-restricted bypass hose,
I don't think the op mentioned what water pump he was running. The 8 vane w/plate would be the first thing to install, if there was a 6 vane on it currently.
 
That was from post #26, which was a recipe that I know works. It was not a "you must do this list".
He is free to go thru it and compare what he has, to what is known to work, and make changes as he feels may be necessary.
 
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