evil 73 duster 340

[jeremie340]

1973 duster 340 ,my dad bought this car it had no motor or trans,ign/key cyl was missing, from colomn.no wire damage by mice or anything,car had been sitting since 78' something.ready to run the car and it wont start or anything.when you put the positive on battery it burns the fuseable link.when he first got the car #3&#6fuse were blown,signs of heat at a headlamp switch terminal ,no damage or crossconection. evrything is new under the hood,engine light harness,ballast ,start relay, voltage regultor,alt,.evrything! i have a running 73 340 dart swinger to verify these connections under the hood.we had headlights,turnsigs, brakes now nothing.the red wire from the amp meter is grounding,causing the link to blow. this is the problem,or the thing i have found.unplugging the back wiring harness makes no difference,still blows fuseable link.the problem has to be under the dash,its not under the hood and its not out back!tryed unplugging things under dash , radio , heater , map light was stuck on at one point but diconnected now ,this thing has stumped many qualified car people please help!:angry7: hoping to go race it this year!any help greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

 

[daredevil]

pull apart the bulkhead connecter and check it closely

 

[mullinax95]

I would do the amp meter by pass

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Unhook everything at the bulk head and connect a test light between the ground on the car to the ground on the battery... it shouldn't light up when everything is hooked back up.

 

[jeremie340]

1973 duster 340 ,my dad bought this car it had no motor or trans,ign/key cyl was missing, from colomn.no wire damage by mice or anything,car had been sitting since 78' something.ready to run the car and it wont start or anything.when you put the positive on battery it burns the fuseable link.when he first got the car #3&#6fuse were blown,signs of heat at a headlamp switch terminal ,no damage or crossconection. evrything is new under the hood,engine light harness,ballast ,start relay, voltage regultor,alt,.evrything! i have a running 73 340 dart swinger to verify these connections under the hood.we had headlights,turnsigs, brakes now nothing.the red wire from the amp meter is grounding,causing the link to blow. this is the problem,or the thing i have found.unplugging the back wiring harness makes no difference,still blows fuseable link.the problem has to be under the dash,its not under the hood and its not out back!tryed unplugging things under dash , radio , heater , map light was stuck on at one point but diconnected now ,this thing has stumped many qualified car people please help!:angry7: hoping to go race it this year!any help greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

all wires under hood are new,evrything under hood is new!

 

[jeremie340]

all wires under hood are new,evrything under hood is new!

I would do the amp meter by pass

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Unhook everything at the bulk head and connect a test light between the ground on the car to the ground on the battery... it shouldn't light up when everything is hooked back up.

i have a new harness and all,the side of the fuseable link that goes to the bulkhead plugin is showing - ,but it is the red on amp meter?

 

[jeremie340]

pull apart the bulkhead connecter and check it closely

new harness,conections look good to.:cheers:

 

[mullinax95]

all wires under hood are new,evrything under hood is new!

It all might be new but something is f--ked up or you wouldn't be asking questions now would you?

Have you tried the test light yet?

 

[mullinax95]

i have a new harness and all,the side of the fuseable link that goes to the bulkhead plugin is showing - ,but it is the red on amp meter?

It should show + . On the engine side of the fusible link it should start at the battery side of the starter relay, from there through the fusible link, and then to the dash to the positive side of the amp meter. The other side of the amp meter (black) should go to the battery terminal on the back of the alternator. Either side you should have a positive reading on your volt meter.

Disconnect the battery, switch to ohms and see if you get a reading between the back of the alternator and ground. You shouldn't get one.. then do the same on the starter relay (battery) to ground. With the amp meter disconnected on one side. If there is a short then it will be on one side of the amp meter therefore it will narrow down where the short is.