Exhausted with Header Leaks

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Gamedog

Gamedog

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Guys,

Just spent 6 hours replacing my header gasket on my driver's side, cranked the motor, STILL THERE.

Doug's D453 Headers
Doug's Header Gaskets
Permatex "Right Stuff" around all exhaust ports and at header flanges

Leak at cylinders 3 & 5

I torqued the header bolts starting from cylinders 3 & 5, then moved outward to 1 & 7.

What do you guys use? Any tricks or tips you guys can share? Very tempted to actually take it to the local Mopar shop to do it because I'm pretty deflated after today. It would be the first time I take it somewhere besides my garage.

Thanks in advance for any help and input.

Gamedog Dave
 
Gamedog said:
Guys,

Just spent 6 hours replacing my header gasket on my driver's side, cranked the motor, STILL THERE.

Doug's D453 Headers
Doug's Header Gaskets
Permatex "Right Stuff" around all exhaust ports and at header flanges

Leak at cylinders 3 & 5

I torqued the header bolts starting from cylinders 3 & 5, then moved outward to 1 & 7.

What do you guys use? Any tricks or tips you guys can share? Very tempted to actually take it to the local Mopar shop to do it because I'm pretty deflated after today. It would be the first time I take it somewhere besides my garage.

Thanks in advance for any help and input.

Gamedog Dave
Click to expand...

Remflex should work

Good luck. I feel your pain
 
I always had good luck by cutting the bar between the ports. Each set of tubes can flex as needed. The image looks a little funky but you catch my drift.

SUM-G9001-9_ml.jpg
 
Are the headers rubbing anywhere? Need to fix that to get sealed. It might be keeping flange away from head. And cut as M1 said above. ^^^^^
 
boilermaker said:
I'm using 6003 on my 318. Mopar Tim does have a good point. Check fit close to steering box.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I did notch the tubes to gain 1/4" clearance from the steering box.

toolmanmike said:
I always had good luck by cutting the bar between the ports. Each set of tubes can flex as needed. The image looks a little funky but you catch my drift.

View attachment 1715043148
Click to expand...

Interesting, hadn't thought of that but makes sense.

Thanks!

Mopar Tim said:
Are the headers rubbing anywhere? Need to fix that to get sealed. It might be keeping flange away from head. And cut as M1 said above. ^^^^^
Click to expand...

See above.

Thanks all for your input!
 
I have always had best results cutting the flanges as described above, and using factory style individual metal gaskets--no sealer.
 
65cuda340 said:
I have always had best results cutting the flanges as described above, and using factory style individual metal gaskets--no sealer.
Click to expand...
agree w/ all of the above, but, have you thot about how much back pressure your exhaust system has? If it isn`t fairly well free flowing on a souped up engine it can hinder sealing.
 
Why cant you have the surfaces re-surfaced flat and then use a new gasket. Lots of work I guess but you said you were fed up and it sounds like youd be putting a band aid on it with thicker gaskets or cutting flanges.
 
Unfortunately, the more you resurface the flange the more likely the flange will warp!! If it's warped now and you cut it (making it thinner) it will warp easier next time you torque down on it.

That's why I only run cast iron, I also got tired of leaking headers. I have better things to do.
treblig
 
Not one leak ever with Remflex as guaranteed with your money back if it does.
I had a busted off stud on the rear drivers side of my old motor and it still didn't leak.
They are also reusable and now on the new motor.
 
I've always found that both the header flange and the head must be fully clean and prepped before install. Final cleaning with acetone. Wear gloves so crud doesn't get on the gasket, head or header. Cutting the flange like stated above helps. Ive used a high temp copper spray that is sticky that helped installation, probably long term seal as well. A retorque of the bolts/nuts after a couple heat cycles is necessary. Retorques every so often if you have problems. An actual retorque, not just "tighten them up." Quality gaskets are also helpful.
 
I have used Remflex Gaskets on the AMC AMX that I race , and some other applications with great sucess.
 
Thanks all for all the input. I ordered the Remflex 6003's. Will be tackling this myself again, as all the shops I talked to didn't want to deal with the hassle of the header removal that comes with out A-Bodies.

Oh well, that's hot rodding!

I'll update after I swap to the Remflex. Fingers crossed!
 
I cut the flanges off my Dougs. I don't know if they'll seal any better but it knocked over a pound off. Yay!

misc 6-8-15 073.JPG


misc 6-8-15 075.JPG
 
Just received the Remflex 6003's...

Will try to throw them in tomorrow or Thursday and will update.
 
Gamedog said:
Just received the Remflex 6003's...

Will try to throw them in tomorrow or Thursday and will update.
Click to expand...
Hello GameDog, I noticed that back a few years ago you replaced your header gasket with Remflex 6003 How have they been doing. I ordered mine today and was wondering how they worked out for you. Please update when you have time.
 
look at the pattern the blown gasket has, it will tell you where its leaking. Buck says its at the bottom as in the header O-ring flange is off the bottom of the 318 exhaust port. I had a set of Hooker SC's and could not get them sealed. turns out the ports were 318 size and the heads were 340's never sealed on the bottom. Look at Treblings post on this, hit the nail on the head. Those stupid ground O-ring headers (SC's included) have a good chance of not lining up on a 318 head if they are made to mate up to a 360. question on head exhaust port size
dsc01770-jpg.jpg

dsc01752-jpg.jpg
 
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