Ez wiring for 73 duster

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Donnie73duster

Donnie73duster

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Hey guys I've seen threads of people discussing the painless and ez wiring. I decided to go with the ez but before I order I'd like to see what I'm getting my self into the wiring is trash on this car and I want to get rid of the bulk head. I'm wondering if anyone has used the ez kit and what kind of problems you ran into I'm new to wiring and all tips would be appreciated
 
I have installed an aftermarket wiring kit in an old mustang for my bud. [got it from speedway motors in Lincoln NE] The kits are very good for the most part but be careful as to the compatibility of various components {a good example would be the ignition switch} make sure you can make it all work with what you have. You'll need some good skille and some good tools but it is very doable. There is a wiring book that you can buy by a guy with the last name Candela that is very good and I would recommend it. Bought mine at Barnes and Noble's. He has all the tips that are important for a goos job.
 
I'm using one (EZ) mostly because I found one "as new" on CL for cheap. Documentation is poor, but if you are willing to actually figure things out, you can overcome that. I don't see 200 dollars difference between EZ and Painless. if you need the so called Packard 56 terminals for many of your connectors, I'll look up where I bought mine. NAPA could get them at preposterous prices

Ironically I started (!!ALSO!!) with a near new Painless harness, and the two fuse panels are absolutely identical except for the label of one fuse.

Also, I opted to simply use a grommet instead of the bulkhead connector. Easy to do. You make a sheet metal plate the same size as your old bulkhead connector, and put the factor retainer clips on there, and the gasket, and simply snap the plate back into place just like the connector
 
Awesome things are a mess and I want to clean it up and am hoping along the way I can figure out my charging issue. I didn't see the price difference between the 2 either I have after market Gauger in it. I think it should be relatively simple. Maybe take a weekend
 
Now would be a good time to really take your time and do a few things

Add relays for things like electric pump, headlights, one to run the heavy ignition / regulator loads, and maybe one for security and or alarm. Think about future expansion.

Also would not hurt to add wiring to accomodate a "kill" switch. There are a number of ways to do that, from disabling ignition to interrupting the fuel pump relay, etc.
 
67Dart273 said:
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I used an E Z, had to adapt to mopar stuff, wasn`t too bad . especially for a 'PLUMBER"! had to talk to Sean at E Z a few times, he`s one smart dude! Unless your an automotive wireing expert, I wouldn`t bet on doing it in a weekend tho.
 
I installed a EZ harness in my 71 Scamp, like Del, I got mine for dirt cheap on CL so I coulnt pass on it. I didnt see any reason to spend big money on a kit, when this one was just fine. Take your time and lay it all out. Dont rush the job and think things thru. I also called Sean at EZ a few times and he knows his stuff!
 
I also bought my EZ harness from a member, still new in the box. Documentation isn't the greatest but once you really start looking at what you're wiring and pay attention to one circuit at a time, you can get it done. I can't offer much help if you're wiring in to original gauges and switches. The only original switch I re-used is the ignition switch and all the gauges were new aftermarket. Column is GM style IDIDIT so that was a plug and play with the EZ harness. Also hid all the wires under the fender and got rid of the bulkhead connector.

 
This is going to depend on what you are doing for ignition.

That is, with a Mopar or other system using a ballast resistor, the bypass circuit is taken care of in the Mopar ign switch. In a GM that function is in the starter solenoid.

so if you need the bypass function, you either need to use a second relay or an isolation diode off the "start" signal.

All other connections should be OK. All switches pretty much have battery in, "Ignition run," "start," and "accessory.

One last problem in some years switches is whether the "ignition run" goes dead in cranking. In that case, whether you have a coil ballast or not, you 'll need a diode or relay to jumper "start" power in cranking to the "ignition" circuit.

Get a test lamp or ohmeter, and "try" the switch.

The EZ harness I had already came with a GM column connector, so it "should" plug right in
 
67Dart273 said:
This is going to depend on what you are doing for ignition.

That is, with a Mopar or other system using a ballast resistor, the bypass circuit is taken care of in the Mopar ign switch. In a GM that function is in the starter solenoid.

so if you need the bypass function, you either need to use a second relay or an isolation diode off the "start" signal.

All other connections should be OK. All switches pretty much have battery in, "Ignition run," "start," and "accessory.

One last problem in some years switches is whether the "ignition run" goes dead in cranking. In that case, whether you have a coil ballast or not, you 'll need a diode or relay to jumper "start" power in cranking to the "ignition" circuit.

Get a test lamp or ohmeter, and "try" the switch.

The EZ harness I had already came with a GM column connector, so it "should" plug right in
Click to expand...
I just rewired my stock column to fit the E Z wireing. Sean was priceless in help !! I wish I had used better gauges tho.
 
famous bob said:
Sean was priceless in help !! .
Click to expand...

See, this is where I have a problem with all these guys, whether Francis, EZ, or what

You should not HAVE to "call the guy" and figure it out. If they'd all spend 10 minutes putting better documentation into their destructions, we'd all HAVE this info.

NONE of these people provide a diagram of the actual harness and fuse panel. I don't remember which, but "a few" of the circuits are not wired as I'd prefer. That is, there's a couple of circuits on ignition that would be better on accessory, or vice versa.

But......the only way to find out is to trace out the harness. It's not in "the book."
 
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