I am installing an ez harness and see that there are no relays for headlights just a circuit breaker should I be adding my own relays. and are there any other ciruits I should be using relays on I was thinking maybe the msd I may go to electric fuel pump later also . I was thinking of getting a relay box from hella it hold 4 relays pn h84988001
ez wiring harness
- Thread starter dvav
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inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
Yes on the h/l relays. Anything that has draws some amps should have one for safety sake. Electric fuel pumps, electric fans, electric water pumps. Also some things that are key controlled...if you are using EFI the ECU should have one....
famous bob
mopar misfit
I rewired my 68, didn`t use relays, the lights are bright in the garage even in the daylight. bigger wire and better fuse block w/ a better design. works for me-
I did the same. Didn't use a relay for the headlights. Used the wiring in the harness and headlights are 10 times better than they were with the old harness. Did use relays on the fuel pump, water pump, and fan though.
straightlinespeed
Sometimes I pretend to be normal
Install the relays for the H/L's, you wont regret it. Its a number of things the old out dated wiring and the amount of current going thru the headlight switch itself. You cant go wrong with doing that and its certainly not going to hurt anything by doing so.
I've installed a couple of these harnesses and make sure you plan ahead and think your project thru. If your already thinking of adding accessories in the future, then add the relays now. If you never use them, so be it, but you have them there if needed.
I've installed a couple of these harnesses and make sure you plan ahead and think your project thru. If your already thinking of adding accessories in the future, then add the relays now. If you never use them, so be it, but you have them there if needed.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't run HID headlamps & electric fuel pump directly off the key switch, especially if a later car w/ switch buried in the column where it is fun to change. The bulkhead connector is also a problem area. Never run an electric radiator fan off the factory ignition circuit, like the gomers did in my 64 Valiant (ran all the time w/ key on).
You are finding why many don't find the expensive after-market wire harnesses a good value. Any changes from factory design and you are doing a lot of custom wiring anyway.
You are finding why many don't find the expensive after-market wire harnesses a good value. Any changes from factory design and you are doing a lot of custom wiring anyway.
straightlinespeed
Sometimes I pretend to be normal
I would not use a rubber hose but yes you should use some sort of wire loom. Also not just to the front of the car but all sections should be in a loom. There is a plastic split wire loom that is fairly inexpensive and can be bought pretty much anywhere. I personally used the loom in the 2nd pic. That stuff is great but is more expensive.
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Under the fender I wrapped all the wiring real good with electrical tape and then used the plastic stuff that straighline posted in the first picture around that. I don't really care for that plastic stuff but it will do the job. Fastened it all up with some of those steel/rubber insulated clamps used for hoses and such. Anywhere that the loom was rubbing (such as the inner fender brace) I wrapped the loom with a few zip ties in those areas so it wouldn't rub on the loom itself.
straightlinespeed
Sometimes I pretend to be normal
No, not that at all. Its just not the most ideal thing to use. You will have to split it down the center just so you can get your wires thru it, that in itself will not be a easy job.
pauly v.100
Well-Known Member
I had a relay set made for me using 5 30a fused relays wired to the fuel pump, dual fans on a relay each, a relay for high beams, another for lows, and one for my amp, all in a buss box.
You see it in the pic right between the MSD box and the fan controller. LOOK MA, no bulkhead adaptor!!
The guy who runs the wired wagon (Toyota land cruiser) website made it for me, but I'm sure it wouldn't be too tough to make one yourself.
You see it in the pic right between the MSD box and the fan controller. LOOK MA, no bulkhead adaptor!!
The guy who runs the wired wagon (Toyota land cruiser) website made it for me, but I'm sure it wouldn't be too tough to make one yourself.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
For new wires, I like smooth plastic tubing (in my 65 Dart wiring below), since thinner and easy to keep clean. It was factory in some cars (my 80's M-B). Search "PVC-105" for one size. For existing wires, where the terminal won't usually pass thru, I must use split loom (post #9 top) or expandable mesh (post #9 bottom). They aren't cheap.
Not sure about the harness you have. The EZ harness I put in my son's 67 Chevy pickup came with a new headlight switch that didn't reduce voltage to the lights. I had relays in it before we re-wired the truck. Still, as said above having the relays won't hurt. I use one in my race car for the lights.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I used relays for everything but the lights. definitly like the braided wire cover more than the convoluted chevy stuff.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Fuses are always good. I have a bunch in that long black box in my avatar. Upstream protects more of the wiring, but otherwise doesn't matter. Since most relays are supplied direct off BATT+, an in-line fuse is very prudent (to paraphrase a former President). There is (or was) a "fusible link" (wire w/ molded tag) at the bulkhead feed on most of our cars. Groups of circuits (~6) have individual fuses in the under-dash box. I recall one is just for the lights, but that would now protect just the coil side of your new relay. Most after-market devices like radios have an in-line fuse. I bet their lawyers insist on that.
famous bob
mopar misfit
E Z harness is already fused
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