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this is what I have, it is the 21 circuit harness.
and yes I connected Ign. 1 and Ign. 2
Did the 10.2V at the coil while cranking tell you what you need to know?
Just to confirm, you are saying that cranking the engine AND you are using the key, that is not by jumpering the starter relay you have 10.2 at the coil?
If that is true the trouble is likely "right there" in the immediate ignition system, under the hood.
Here's the deal on Mopar ECU
The older 5 pin ECU MUST have a 4 pin resistor.
The newer 4 pin module CAN use either a 4 or 2 pin resistor.......it's simply that the other 1/2 is not used
You can NOT tell a 4 pin module from a 5 pin "always" because many (probably most) replacement 4 pin modules actually have 5 physical pins. If you "need to know" you'll have to check resistance on the "last" pin.
It might be worth knowing that either on a 2 pin resistor or a 4 pin, the 1/2 of the resistor hooked to the coil works exactly the same as the old points cars. In fact, If you converted, say, and still have the points distributor, all you need do if the ECU quits is to unplug the ECU, unhook the coil NEG wire, and plunk the points dist. in there and hook up the NEG wire.
I say that maybe help you understand the circuit. The basic 4 pin ECU is :
Not shown here is the IGN2 connection which electrically hooks to coil POS
Also, l electrically, a 4 pin module, the left half of the resistor is simply not used.
OK so since you have cranking voltage to the coil the trouble is likely "right here" in this diagram so to speak
Next thing I'd do........
1....REALLY make certain the ECU is grounded. To double check turn the key to "run." Measure coil+ voltage which will vary, It should be well below battery voltage perhaps 6--8 volts.
You can also check coil NEG voltage which should be very low, perhaps 1/2 --1 volts. If both coil + and coil - are quite high, it means the coil is not drawing current through the ECU box.
2....With the key in run, hold the coil wire near a ground point, or use a spark checker. Remove the distributor connector, take the engine half of the connector and tap the bare end to ground. This should produce a spark each time
3...Remove the cap, inspect distributor. Look for shaft wobble, bent, strike damage in the pickup and reluctor, and check the reluctor gap at .008" (inches) with a BRASS feeler. O'Really's used to carry those.
4...Hook your multimeter set for low AC volts. That is correct, AC, not DC. Crank the engine while the meter is hooked into the distributor connector. The distributor should generate about 1V AC. Also check resistance across the distributor connector. This is not terribly important, these seem to vary from around 200-400 ohms. Much higher or lower, replace.
Also check resistance from each wire to ground. Should be infinite, that is, open.
5...Inspect the distributor connector, and "work" it in/ out several times to "scrub" the terminals clean and to feel for tightness. This is ESPECIALLY important with this connector as there is only a tiny signal going through there.
Repeat 5 with the ECU connector.
6....If nothing else "jives" there are always wild cards. What do you have for parts? Spare used coil, spare distributor? Does not take long to try them if you have them.
7...If you have a tach or ANYTHING else hooked to coil NEG, unhook that, so that there is only the one wire to the ECU.
