F-Body ignition switch swap

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DionR

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Anyone ever swapped an F-Body ignition switch into an A-Body? Best I can tell they bolt in, but the plug is different. Pretty sure they can be wired the same, but not absolutely certain of that.

Anyone know if you can by the blade connectors that the F-Body wiring harness uses (rather than the bullet style of the A-Body). And can you buy a tool to crimp them on? Like to avoid soldering wires together if I can, just to avoid the another possible connection issue.

Two reasons I am asking:

1. I found a brand new one at the yard for $3.
2. This would help the issue of melting the red and black wire connections at the factory plug.

Spent some time looking online, but didn't find any info so thought I would ask. Thanks.
 
Ok, found a wiring diagram that I'm pretty sure reflects the wiring of the F-Body switch.

Two problems:

1. Looks like there is a separate power wire that feeds the yellow starter wire. I had thought to maybe just leave off the wires that weren't needed, but now I would have to feed power to the pink wire in order for the starter circuit to work. Not the end of the world, I guess I could jumper it at the plug from the red wire.

2. No brown wire and the blue wire is hot during both cranking and running. This means the ignition wont get full voltage during cranking, but will run through the ballast resistor. Not the way it is supposed to work. Not sure what to do about that right now. Maybe an HEI conversion at the same time?

Haven't actually tested the switch to confirm these conclusions yet.

Looks like the factory connectors are called an "open barrel" style, and I think I've found a source. Not sure how easy it would be to get them, though. And still need to locate the crimping tool, but at least I know what I am looking for now.

Not sure this is worth it. Didn't think the wiring was different, I was hoping the only real difference was the style of plug.
 
It has quickly become more difficult that I expected, that is for certain. But I didn't go looking for this to try, I was just kicking around in a local yard and was under the dash of an Aspen looking at a manual pedal setup when I saw the switch laying on the floor boards.

I don't even know if I have an issue with my switch. I know I can wiggle the plug and see a .2v variation of the voltage across the battery posts, so I know there is some resistance in that plug. But I have bigger issues with my electrical system than that, so I certainly don't need to do this. It was more just an "I wonder if..." kind of a thing.

BTW, a new switch is like $35 on RockAuto. Probably less than a quality crimping tool would be.
 
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