Fact or Fiction--Trailer tie downs
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doogievlg
Well-Known Member
I do the usual. One around the rear axel one around the k member. On longer trips a might pull over to crank it down if it gets a little loose but like someone else said...it's just a bracket car.
75DartSE
Well-Known Member
The problem with the shock discussion is the coilovers aren't meant to take that cycling, and produce lots of heat, which breaks down the oil or causes leaky shocks. Saying that, you only really have to worry about that if you have a leaf sprung trailer. The torsion type trailer axles are much smoother and easier on the car's chassis. I would just check how warm the shock is, but be careful you could burn your hand.
As for tying my car down, I do the same on the axle and K member. I usually use the lower control arms, but I find they are hard to gets tie downs around with everything around them. I also cross the straps to keep the car from shifting from side to side.
As for tying my car down, I do the same on the axle and K member. I usually use the lower control arms, but I find they are hard to gets tie downs around with everything around them. I also cross the straps to keep the car from shifting from side to side.
bOb shingler
Well-Known Member
FYI
here's what I do and recommend and also because its the rules. use 4 straps that are each rated at the weight of the hotrod. each of these are tied to the frame and crossed to the opposite side. the trailer chains are 3/8" link and cross over to the opposite side to the hitch. this is so if the ball fails or the hitch lock comes loose the trailer tougue will fall into the crossed chains and follow the truck and not sway all over the place until you can get everything stopped. also use clevises instead of the "S" hooks to attach the chains to the hitch. I have a battery operated brake switch in the event the hitch comes unlatched or ball fails. this sets the electric brakes and will stop you. I also use a pin or lock to make sure the hitch does not open. I also have a back up alarm to notify everyone around i'm backing up. safety first, you have a lot of money tied up in your hotrod and trailer and do not need to lose it to a wreck. these are also DOT rules that if you do not have all the stuff you could be pulled and fined and have to leave the hotrod where it is until it is brought up to the standards. some of you have different opinions on this and it is up to you on how you want to tote your hotrods but just give it a little thought before something goes terribly wrong.
here's what I do and recommend and also because its the rules. use 4 straps that are each rated at the weight of the hotrod. each of these are tied to the frame and crossed to the opposite side. the trailer chains are 3/8" link and cross over to the opposite side to the hitch. this is so if the ball fails or the hitch lock comes loose the trailer tougue will fall into the crossed chains and follow the truck and not sway all over the place until you can get everything stopped. also use clevises instead of the "S" hooks to attach the chains to the hitch. I have a battery operated brake switch in the event the hitch comes unlatched or ball fails. this sets the electric brakes and will stop you. I also use a pin or lock to make sure the hitch does not open. I also have a back up alarm to notify everyone around i'm backing up. safety first, you have a lot of money tied up in your hotrod and trailer and do not need to lose it to a wreck. these are also DOT rules that if you do not have all the stuff you could be pulled and fined and have to leave the hotrod where it is until it is brought up to the standards. some of you have different opinions on this and it is up to you on how you want to tote your hotrods but just give it a little thought before something goes terribly wrong.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
Class is in session!
Using four straps might be something I should do though instead of two.
tubtar
Well-Known Member
I have 15 years under my belt as an auto transporter and muddog covers it , but doesn't go into why.
The factories all use wheel ties , many requiring them.
Because there isn't enough frame to tie to anymore.
Guys have damaged cars by using hydraulics to tighten the chains and I had a T hook tear through a Chevrolet pick up frame when I used a non approved tie down hole.
Chains and R hooks or T hooks are going the way of the brontosaurus , but for my money , there is no better way to tie down a vehicle.
An " A " pull with the chains pulling outward on the bottom of the chain makes for less rocking than a basket or "V" pull.
I prefer not to let the suspension work on my race car when it is in transit , but I don't think you will do significant damage or premature shock wear by using wheel ties
The factories all use wheel ties , many requiring them.
Because there isn't enough frame to tie to anymore.
Guys have damaged cars by using hydraulics to tighten the chains and I had a T hook tear through a Chevrolet pick up frame when I used a non approved tie down hole.
Chains and R hooks or T hooks are going the way of the brontosaurus , but for my money , there is no better way to tie down a vehicle.
An " A " pull with the chains pulling outward on the bottom of the chain makes for less rocking than a basket or "V" pull.
I prefer not to let the suspension work on my race car when it is in transit , but I don't think you will do significant damage or premature shock wear by using wheel ties
Hemioutlaw
Make America Great Again!
My track car 64' Valiant backhalf has a straight front axle and I go over it with straps to tie down the front, I have two chains with some slack on each end of the Dana that stay on car always (joined with grade 8 bolts, nuts, lock washers). I attach my rear strap hooks to these chains, it makes it a lot easier and your straps don't get as dirty from having to go over the axle. As to the shock ? Never heard of such a thing and like others said "don'tworryaboutit". Have fun and take it slow till ya get some *** time.
mopwr2004a
low slung chassis
check out mac's tie downs web site ans do a search for it on youtube. this company has lots of good info on tie downs and how to tie a vehicle down.
mopwr2004a
low slung chassis
here's the website link http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/
oldmopardude
Well-Known Member
I'm with muddog,
I have moved cars across country for 30+ years. I always tie down the lower A frame, and the rear axles. I let the suspension do what it was meant to do. I found early on if you tie the car down on the suspension, eventually that car will pull on the straps, eventually loosening them up. When I used chains, the constant bounce weakened the tie downs,and the car being rigid beat up the trailer, very dangerous when going through the Rockies. A 4000 LB car tied rigid to a 2,000 LB trailer becomes 6,000+ on the four trailer tires 100% of the time. Tied to the frame I then have two sets of suspension working, Instead of just the trailer springs. Short distances would be ok, but across country it is different. My experience has been only single 20ft - 28ft trailers, not the big haulers, they may do things differently
I have moved cars across country for 30+ years. I always tie down the lower A frame, and the rear axles. I let the suspension do what it was meant to do. I found early on if you tie the car down on the suspension, eventually that car will pull on the straps, eventually loosening them up. When I used chains, the constant bounce weakened the tie downs,and the car being rigid beat up the trailer, very dangerous when going through the Rockies. A 4000 LB car tied rigid to a 2,000 LB trailer becomes 6,000+ on the four trailer tires 100% of the time. Tied to the frame I then have two sets of suspension working, Instead of just the trailer springs. Short distances would be ok, but across country it is different. My experience has been only single 20ft - 28ft trailers, not the big haulers, they may do things differently
Fishracer66
Lap, not 1/4 mile times!
I have towed my Barracuda road race car for many thousands of miles all across the country, and have never given one thought about wearing out or heating up the cuda's shocks! I have an enclosed trailer, and use four 3" wide ratcheting tie downs. The front uses a pair of straps that wrap around the front sway bar corners, and at the rear I use two 3" ratcheting straps that cross and tie to a couple of small forged eyebolts added to sides of the rear shock plates. On the floor of the trailer is E-channel to tie everything down.
IMHO, you do want to use all 4 straps. The most important ones I think are the rears, which will keep the car from moving forward during a panic stop situation. I don't think I can accelerate the trailer fast enough to slide the car backwards!
There are debates as to whether or not it is advisable to keep the car in gear when towing as some say that the transmission gears are rubbing back and forth as the car moves around, and that can cause pre-mature wear. (I am assuming a manual trans, which is what I have.) I personally keep mine in 2nd gear when towing as I would rather worry about it moving around being in neutral if a strap fails! (My car does not have a parking brake, which makes the question relevant).
IMHO, you do want to use all 4 straps. The most important ones I think are the rears, which will keep the car from moving forward during a panic stop situation. I don't think I can accelerate the trailer fast enough to slide the car backwards!
There are debates as to whether or not it is advisable to keep the car in gear when towing as some say that the transmission gears are rubbing back and forth as the car moves around, and that can cause pre-mature wear. (I am assuming a manual trans, which is what I have.) I personally keep mine in 2nd gear when towing as I would rather worry about it moving around being in neutral if a strap fails! (My car does not have a parking brake, which makes the question relevant).
moper
Well-Known Member
75DartSE
Well-Known Member
I leave the car in neutral while tying it down so I don't put pressure on the park pin or gears for manual. Then I put it in gear or park as a backup plan. You there never seems to be pressure on it when I take it out of park to untie it.
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